Sti engine bay layout is not designed for the heat thay big power produces. You should definitely consider v mount and an oil cooler that is NOT sandwiched between intercooler and radiator. Things will keep breaking if heating issue is not resolved.
My WRX Channel I am in South Australia where half the year is more than 110 on track. In winter I still need to cool the car down during each session. I have got two oil coolers now and they have only just kept things under control...For the amount of money you have spent on it, it’s so worth that little extra to look after your car. PS: where is your apr big wing?
TJ Hunt had the same problem with his 370z, he upgraded to a bigger oil pan, don’t know if that would work with your car. Just a suggestion, but it has worked for him
I have very similar build as you and was really surprised how much the Verus hood scoop delete helped keep engine temps down. I have not yet taken it to the track, but on the street, my coolant temps are about 5 to 10° cooler since I installed the hood scoop delete.
Great video of what things to look for. Heat reduction and reliability on the track is critical to enjoy the car and have fun after many sessions for sure.
Get sure you check for your wheel bearings. The original grease in the bearings is not track-heat resistant. After few rounds on track the bearings are dry and die few days later (experienced in Germany by another RU-vidr who runs the Nordschleife...)
I had a 25 row mushimoto oil cooler mounted in front grill and it worked great with my car making almost 500 hp. After getting a fmic I have a top mount oil cooler from bline motorsports.
1:59 is still a fast lap for a street car. I would be very happy getting under 2 minutes, I was running 2:04 in my type r last time out, but it was 95 degrees out so maybe next time will be better.
These combo rads/oil coolers are a REALLY bad idea! If you are tracking the car you should be using a separate 25 row oil cooler. The combo rads just make things worse as the two fluids are cross temp soaking each other - honestly these are a really bad idea for higher power cars and track duty.
I thought something much worse happened....ya got me. Also, those clamps around the throttle body, ditch em and get GOOD t-bolt clamps. All in all you're doing great. I'd love to track my 16' but I think I'll keep it a street car and more than likely track my older 2.0L wrx. GD's are cheaper to fully convert into track cars anyways. Being paid off makes a big difference too 🙃
You need to keep on mind you have a big front plate blocking the air in the inter cooler, that could be part of the overheat problem, i would recommend take the plate off at least on the track, btw car looks great and sounds healthy. Keep it up! :D
Thanks for real life info on the track and parts! Cross mind about other gauges? I know you are about best bang/functionality. I personally Have the defi gauges and aem wide band in sti. Which oil cooler? The top mount location under the scoop? Only one that tends to fit for are cars.
At the beginning of your video you said you were on a base tune. For future reference, you should never go hard on a base tune...that is how you damage parts. A base tune will allow it to run but it's primary purpose is to make it safe to data log to complete a dedicated tune. I see the video is 2 years old so this is probably irrelevant lol.
Wait!? Does perrin intercooler really only use those regular worm clamps!? Need to clamps like what prl uses. Definitely get oil cooler. Do top mount one
Subaru engines are placed so far in front of tue front axel that turning becomes quite difficult, with all that imbalanced inertia. That’s just physics. Hope they make a mid-engine STI someday.
Hey your looking for the radium dual hanger correct ? If you haven’t ordered one yet let me know on this comment I have one that hasn’t been used still in the box with 2 AEM fuel pumps .
Just curious, what was the cost of the engine build? Am on the fence about modifying my engine gradually or just going for a built block from the start
At your power levels you shouldn't even be trying to track the car... Honestly don't try this again without fitting a 25 row cooler - don't go with the small perrin cooler and definitely not the Mishimoto cooler kit. You really need a 25 row Mocal or Koyo cooler with custom lines. The combo RAD/Oil coolers are a really REALLY bad idea. The gold tape is a total waste of money especially as your IAT sensor is still in the MAF and I'd highly recommend you move to an SD tune and relocate your IAT sensor to the intake pipe just before the throttle body. You also shouldn't be wrapping your headers! Good luck man....
Yohan lo it’s a fire risk and it also can hold in moisture, cause corrosion and cracking of the header. The only suitable ‘wrap’ for a header is ceramic coating.
