CONGRATULATIONS! you are the first EVER to point out the pervasive IMPULSE TUBE, however I don't think you knew what it was. It is unique to the 210and 210C. I asked 2 Stihl dealers and both said that this iteration did not have one, most dealers are sellers not fixers. I visited 20 some websites to find mention of it, 2 knew about it but no response of location or pics to locate it and it can be a problem of failure to keep running or no power. Seeing you point it out I knew what it was and you can buy them all day long on Ebay. Thank You, I'm in your debt for the marathon breakdown.👍😁
Excellent video- thanks!! My 210c start is: pull on full choke till it pops, then half choke (flip choke lever up one click but not to run- dont touch throttle) which usually starts on the next pull, let it high idle for half a minute, then flick the throttle to take it to run mode. Works every time. Also, you are pulling the pull start way to hard- the ez start on these does not require a fast pull! :-D
Thanks! GREAT tips! Yeah, I figured the pull out later. I've never used an ez start. I'm used to ripping fast and short. They do work great though. Thanks again, G.
I know this is from 2020 but I watched this with great interest because my father gave me his MS210C about a year before he passed away. It's been sitting unused in my garage for at least 3 years. He never used ethanol free gas, (probably), wasn't even available way back in the day. All the gas lines are cracked and the saw is filthy. I've ordered a complete carb kit from Amazon and I hope to replace all the lines as well. I cannot part with this saw and hope that I can revive it. My questions about your fantastic rehab of this saw are- what did you use to super clean the saw and if the carburetor I ordered doesn't fit right, would you happen to have the OEM Stihl part number so I can order one? Last but not least, THANK YOU for this very detailed video of the process of rehabing the exact same saw that I have!
That's cool Brian! Glad it might be helpful. For cleaning, I started with gasoline and brushes to get the bulk of the mess off. Everything pretty much got: gas, hot water, Dawn Ultra and rinse, Meguiar's Hot Rims tire and wheel cleaner (G9524)(Don't let it stay around too long on the aluminum parts), hot water, and dried with compressed air. And a lot of elbow grease. I don't know the part number on my carb. I tried to look up parts and saw three listed. They may all work just fine, or you would need to look at the carb you have when you take it apart. Hope this helps and good luck with your project! Take care, G.
Now I know why Stihl's cost so much...heck of a lot of engineering and fiddly assembly bits. Nice camera work G! Know it was a pain but for gosh sake turn the AC on...we'll deal with it even for 50 minutes. Perhaps that start issue has something to do with the carb heater system? Don't know if it's tied back to the exhaust or how it works, just a thought. Been thinking about getting one for the new place, just have to save sheckles first. Heck of a video man! Thanks!
You and me both PJ! Tons of parts and bits. I'll try to shoot a test clip with the AC on to get opinions on the quality. I can't say as I'm not familiar with these saws. I still don't know what corrected the problem. I stated to another post that sometimes I take some broken something apart, find no problem and upon putting it back together- it just works. I'm sure you've had the same inexplicable results here and there. Keep saving your sheckles! Take care, G.
Hey man! You’re the best! Nobody walks through a tear down and reassembly better than you! I have a couple of Stihl weed eaters and chainsaws. When they don’t start the shop always says it’s the carberator and they just replace the whole thing. What do you think was causing the no start on this one? Your video gave me reason to think I could tear down my weed eater to the carberator clean and reassemble. Perfect video!
Thanks Glen! Glad you like my style. I would assume they just replace because the labor and parts would be too much and any problem might still remain- imo. I never landed on what was causing the problem with this one. I can't count the times I've taken some non-working something apart, found nothing, put it back together and it magically started working. This one would fall into that category. Give it a go to repair your own equipment and absorb the labor costs at least. Even if you have to purchase a new carb- you're money ahead to replace it yourself. Aside from that, try to stay away from using ethanol in your small engines. It can wreak havoc on them. Take care, G.
You are the man G I am not sure I would of taken down as far as you did to clean it chainsaws can get complicated i have seen some the the case is part of the crankcase. I own 2 stihl chainsaws and love them i have never owned one with the Stihl quick chain adjuster both of mine have the regular chain adjuster. Turn your ac on we can deal with a little noise to keep you cool. LOL Have a great day!!!
Thanks man! It wasn't necessary for sure- but was a way for me to pay homage to him. He was a great man and I admired him greatly. The quick chain adjuster is a new one for me as well. I do like the tool-less aspect of it. I should put out a test video to see if the AC/etc. would be a problem. It would my my life better since it was hotter than a mother $$%%$$$....lol. Take care, G.
@@ghostses I ended up having to replace carb, the internal check valve (the one you have to knock out with a punch) was bad......never knew they had it
Your Frustration with the short tubes, Harbor Freight is your friend, HEMOSTATS. Long, short, straight, curved. I use these for many instances as a 11th finger without the fist in the way.
I picked up one of the Stihl MS 210C saws tonight for $30. Came with a stihl carrying case and extra chains. Person said it wouldn’t start, found chain on backwards pinched in the sprocket retainer. I think I flooded it before I noticed chain issue. Will try to start again tomorrow. Kind of difficult to start this saw?
Great score Brad! I'm sure you can get it going! I agree, this one seems to flood easily. Play around to figure out how to best start yours. Look online for how to clear a flooded condition. Good luck, G.
My Stihl MS210C feels like the pull card is slipping and not creating the compression needed to start the saw. I noticed when I pulled the cord and released, the bar gear was slowly turning and then their was some compression just not enough to start. There is clicking noise when I pull the cord. I wasn't sure if it was the ignition module (black box with magnet that attaches tot he spark plug) or other. Any thoughts?
The bar gear shouldn't move much- or at all since the clutch is inside of it. It should only move when the saw is running fast enough to engage the clutch and spin the chain. I hope this comes across. A compression tester would let you know if the saw is in good shape internally. I'm not sure of the clicking noise. If you leave the saw in the off position and still hear the noise when pulling- it's not coming from the the module- but from somewhere else. Hope this helps in some way. Good luck, G.
Thanks Sirus! This video makes for the two stihl machines I own now. If/when my 20yr. old+ Ryobi string trimmer dies- I'll be getting a Stihl as a replacement. But at this point, I think that may never happen...lol. Good to hear from you. Take care, G.
More importantly, how the heck did you get it that clean? I've been using degreaser, brush, power washer... well, basically everything, still looks like crap ^^
LOL! I used gasoline to get the bulk of the grime off. Then used either Dawn Ultra dish soap, or 50/50 Purple Power followed up with Dawn. I rinsed with hot water and dried the parts off with compressed air. It was hours of labor that didn't come trough in the video. Take care, G.
I’m guessing she’s happy with how it looks and runs now?! Hope she doesn’t use it herself. It runs well so the carb may have just needed to be taken apart and put back together (has happened to me and still is a mystery - just a little dirt somewhere I suppose). Thought you would replace the diaphragms, but seems to run well. What are the “2” pull springs for? The little one to return the rope and the other bigger/stronger one to give the cranking some torque?
No Mac, she won't be using it. It's my saw now. I'll do whatever needs to be done. Yeah, I don't know where the problem was- but it might've been a speck of trash- who knows.. The pull start is odd and nothing I've experienced before. You pull slowly and I guess one spring winds up the other- then it lets loose and spins the engine fast. It feels odd- but works quite well. Good to hear from you, G.