I've had this saw for a while now...3/8 P chain. I put an Oregon bar w/ a 3/8 .050 55 chain on mine along with a side adjustment and a steel bucking claw and it's a little beast. We bought 12 acres of property and I've cut a shit ton of cedar trees down with mine. And it will cut 8-10" (and bigger) trees all day with no effort. The smaller chain is a weak point...go to the bigger Oregon bar and chain and watch the chips fly. You'll be surprised what this little saw will do. I keep my saws clean, maintained & with a sharp chain and no issues. Actually wanted to go with a bigger pro saw but just can't justify it right now with the way this saw is running. FWIW...just my opinion from running this guy for a while.
I just watched another review of a guy cutting 20'' tree, where he had to cut either side of it. he just said he kept the chain sharp(no bigger bar or different chain). But I could tell he was pushing it had with that. your idea of putting a bigger bar/chain on it sounds good. Stihl always designs their products to be able to put bigger things on them and still run like a dream
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ru-vid.comUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I have this saw and love it. I have owned bigger saws (professional) over the years, but my lower back is shot, so I bought the MS170. Tips for the amateur: make sure it's warmed up before starting to cut, keep it sharp, do not "lay on it" (force it).........go to a larger saw if you want to cut faster, have it "screaming" before you engage the wood and limbs. I wish that I would have bought one years ago. Play safe guys :)
Have owned a still ms170c 16" bar chain saw for 15 + years. Used it to cut double trailer loads of oak, maple and ash. Although I bought it for limbing, it soon replaced my larger saw due to its light Weight and ease of use. Had it going this week to help a friend who lost 18 trees in a windstorm. Yes it will cut 6,8,and 10 inch logs all day long and then some. Has been sitting for 6 months since last used and started in 3-4 pulls! Best honest review I can give you. If I haven't cut 60 to 80 bush cords with this gem then I've underestimated how many cords I've cut.
It’s impossible to beat this saw in weight, price,mileage,performance, reliability…there’s only one serious choice in the 30cc category and this is it. Well done review!
I've had a 170 for nearly 10 years. It is my only saw and has cut down 20" diameter trees. I have cut all day, every day, for a fortnight. It has logged, snedded and felled. The small chain is great, especially with full chisel cutters, agressive and fast. The chains last until there is nothing left to sharpen. All in all a great little saw that shows no sign of giving up yet, and so much easier to use all day than a 260 sized machine. As for the criticism of the on/off/choke lever......cobblers man. It is the same as all the Stihl saws I've ever used. Try using the saw to it's full potential and you will see what it really can do. I use cheapo oils and fuel with mine, never a problem. Poor review tbh.
This gentleman has done a true review of the MS170. I have owned mine for 5+ years. The idle is high, but the saw does what it is made for. I have cut, limbed and bucked 6 to 8 inch trees over the 5 years. It has never let md down. Thanks.
Idle is set too high, chain is too loose, and to say this saw won't cut 6-8" logs all day is ridiculous. 6-8" logs is exactly what a small saw like this is made for. If you said it won't cut 12-14" logs all day then you would be partially correct. It will cut 12-14" logs all day but it will take forever and is outside of what it was designed for. But 6-8"? Seriously? If your 170 can't cut a 6" log then your chain sharpening skills need to be upgraded substantially.
Are you kidding. That twig you pointed out I kick those in half! You can cut anything you want with that saw, and that’s what it was made for. Whatever you want to cut. Just may take longer.
Agreed, my buddy's MS170 and my MS171 will cut 6" to 8" all day long. I cut down, limb and junk all my 6" to 10" firewood with my saw. I chose the MS171 because it was light and cheap. Regardless of what it was made for, it will cut some large trees. I've been 2 years with the original chain and should have no trouble getting another 2 tears according to the sharpening limit marks.
I learned more from watching this video and reading the comments (especially the comments) than I did on a dozen "review" sites. Thanks for posting this.
G’day mate, I’ve had my MS170 for about 8 years now and still love it. I cut Australian hard wood with it day in and day out, it’s fantastic! In all that time I’ve only replaced one chain and one spark plug. Today I stripped it down and gave it a really good clean up, well deserved. Thanks for your review.
I've had one of these saws for 15 years. I've cut many 18 inch trees easily. I sharpen it frequently, takes about five minutes. I also have an 029 farm boss but it kills my back. Btw your chain is way too loose.
Great review well thought out with actual time on this saw. As of the choke system on this saw it is a lot of steps to start because it doesn't have a primer bulb BUT if you understand small engines it is a great setup. With the engine being as small as it is the throttle butterfly is in front of the choke so by holding the throttle to set the choke allows for more vacuum to get the fuel up from the tank through the carb to the engine. Now when the engine pops the engine is over loaded with fuel so having to push the choke to 2nd position holds the throttle open so when it starts it will burn off unnecessary fuel by revving up and leaning out and by popping the throttle it will release the choke system and it will let it idle down and run properly.
I bought one of these today to replace an old Homelite XL. Broke it in, runs great, cuts great. The pull start on the new engine is very stiff so you really have to keep a grip on the saw. Hope to get 10 or 20 years out of it like some of you guys.
I appreciate your review. I was thinking about getting this for my dad as his father's day gift but wasn't sure. I have an ms 361 with 20" bar and it's a beast. It does whatever I need it to do but it gets heavy after a while. Now that my dad's getting ready to retire I'll finally have someone out there helping me clearing pathways and areas for our homes. It's 30 acres of Oak trees. There's some good size trees out there which is why I got the 361. My dad's got a bad shoulder and from what I saw on your review the 170 will be perfect for him. I'll do the cutting he can do the trimming. Thank you for your review
I have an MS170 for about 4 years now. A great lightweight saw for light duty work if you like Stihl's. I agree with the reviewer - it's not for bucking big wood. The bar gets so hot the oil smokes. Within it's limitations it's a capable machine.
I ran a 015 for over 30 years with only a 14" bar and never had any problems. That's why I purchased a MS170. First tree cut down was a 10" diameter maple. I had no problem at all. I cut just as large or larger with the smaller 015 and I do not expect to have any difficulty cutting down 10-15" trees with the new MS 170. As for the chain, I believe it cuts quite well and has no problem at all with plunge cuts. Unlike the old 015, the anti-vibration mount really reduces any type of fatigue associated with vibration. Great little saw.
Good review but wow you are underrating this saw. I understand it's not meant for long term bigger stuff but it will easily cut 6"-8" logs for homeowner use. Easily!
Thanks very much for this excellent review. Based on your comments this saw fit my needs perfectly and I purchased one. Light, well made and reliable. I would recommend having a second chain sharp and ready for those situations you need to clear a fallen tree and do not have the 5 to 10 minutes to touch up the chain.
The MS 170 is not a bad residential saw, if you know that your getting into. First off, 43 gauge chain, so although it will cut fast since it taking a thinner bite, but it means a lot more chain sharping to keep the chain sharp as well. Next, Stihl changed out the cranks side seals on the new 170's to single seals lips, verses the old double lip seals of the older 170's. So plan on having to change the single side seals out to double seal lips by the end of the first year, if not sooner. Hence when the seals leak, your sucking in a lot more air, which cause the saw to run too lean, and will burn it up (the piston and the cylinder scored to hell). The problem is compounded by the fact that the carb is not adjustable on the unit. There is the TW215 carb mode so you can easily adjusted the carb without having to pull it apart to get at the jets, but really not needed so long as you keep in mind the side crank seal problem to begin that needs to be addressed ASAP so the carb stays tuned correctly isntead. Note, since the seal cavities are part of the molding of the case, when you split the case, a touch of RTC as the seal areas of the crank area channel goes a long was to prevent seals from leaking on the outer edges as well. Again, if the crank seals start to leak, your going to be sucking in more air into the cylinder, going to cause the saw to run lean, and going to burn up the pistol and cylinder, hence the piston and cylinder burnt to hell on the exhaust side. Lastly, although the chain pump system is not bad, there is a problem with the bar chain oiler tube that will be leak central by the the start of year two. To conclude, not a bad residential saw for light year, and at the end of year one if only used for light use, pull the saw apart to go after the key parts. Note, if the saw is going to be a work horse, change out the side seals from the start. Note sure why they when to single lips seals, but my guess is to have the saw burn up faster, with most owners just opting to buy a new for $170 again isntead. Hence first year service for light use, replace the single lip crank seals with the older double lips seals (aftermarket if needed), and use a light coat of RTV on the out sides of the seals to the crank case as well. On the new chain bar oiler tube that you will replace since the old one will be leaking by that point, use Dielectrical/silicone gears on the outside of the tubing parts, since it will slow the rubber down from drying out to cause the bar oil leaks fro the tank seal area, and the channel for the pump. Also, when you go to grease the crank to the seals to put the new double sided seals on the crank sides, use some Dielectrical/silicone on the seal/cranks surfaces as well. Hence standard grease is going to cause problems with the seal lips after time ,while silicone grease will not cause harm to the seals isntead. Now so long as you clean the saw enough to prevent the saw dust build up from over heating it, keep the spark arrestor, spark plug and air filter clean, chain sharp, should not have problem with the saw for a couple more years. Hence in a few years, will be time to change the bar pump on the unit, change the oiler tube again, and address an other problems like maybe a bar is it worn out come that time as well. Note, not a big fan of the 50 gauge bar and chain on the say, since it really does not have the power to make bigger cuts on thicker tree's that the saw was disigned for to begin with. Hence if you need to run a 20" bar, then get a saw with the needed power to run that size bar without problem isntead. Once last thing, and you can pick up after market top end kits for a ms170 (turns it into a 180 motor) for around $40, and with new seals, and comes to about $50 in the end. I bring this up, since if you are looking at a used MS170 for sale, pull the muffler to take a look at the piston through the exhaust port for any scaring. Hence bank that someone burnt the saw up by year two, needs a new top end and seal kit, making the saw worth about $60 if all the other parts are still good instead (since you can buy a brand new MS170 for under $180 brand new.
D Baker I rewrote a key sentence about halfway through your screed: 'Note sure why they when to single lips seals, but my guess is to have the saw burn up faster, with most owners finding a Bluebird Brand saw bought online for $69 to be as good a solution in their need category, and never buying another German built product.'
My wife just bought me one of these today. I haven't even ran it yet, so it's good to know about the seal. Do you have to split the case to do replace it?
I have cut through 12 inch seasoned locust with my MS170 and it did great. It is a little beast. I have cut a lot of wood and the saw chain is still sharp. I'm sure it will dull in a little while but so far I'm excited about the saw. I still don't believe how good it is.
Excellent review. I’m was offered one this afternoon, and all the online reviews show it cutting 6” timber straight out of the box. Good to see how it operates in the real world.
I love my MS170. I have a wood lot in back of my house and I cut everything from about 10 inches and below. The chain cuts well and doesn't dull that fast. I am very happy with the way this saw runs and totally surprised at the power it has compared to the 18 inch Champion and 14 inch Poulan saws I own. I thought I would need a bigger saw to cut the large stuff but so far so good. Being so light it is really a back saver allowing me to work for hours at a time.
When I bought my MS170 four years ago, the german dealer put it together and showed me how the saw is meant to be started: Activate the chain brake, this means push big black front security lever in direction of the blade. Put the saw on the ground, right foot goes into the handle, left hand holds the handle. Press the two security things on the handle with your right hand, so you are able to put the little black lever down to the bottom, complete, this is the cold start position. Now drag two to five times, till it fires shortly, but it is NOT meant to be running! No put the black lever one position higher, start the saw. As soon as it has started, push the bottom thing on the handle, then the little black lever goes automatically higher in normal position, and the saw has standby gas, lower rpm (rotations per minute). Be carefull, do everything on your own risk. Really great saw by the way, it can do much more than I expected, it goes very well for garden and around the house. It eats bigger trees too, but if you do bigger trees a lot you need ... guess it ... a bigger saw :)
Horst Norst. Thanks for telling us how to start this chainsaw. I have owned a 170 for a few years. I bought it for firewood, that's how these saws are sold here. When I first tried to start it that was the time I needed to read your post. But after a couple of days work it was a total jack russell. It's a pruning saw for big shrubs, a sweet and nimble limbing saw, a carving saw for rotten patches of apple tree trunk, a fine carpentry tool where a router takes too long to set up, essential field-fencer's companion, the quickest way to get a rough plywood panel out of an 8x4, climbing saw at a pinch, and the list goes on. I use it as often in my business as all the rest of my saws combined, love them tho I do, even my 116Si with original 20" bar and a beautiful baritone voice. The stihl's only fault, it's a 111dB soprano.
I have 1/4 acre and this saw is perfect. Most stuff we cut is small...but in the off chance a bigger tree or branch comes down, this saw will take it on no problem. Great saw and great video!
Thanks for the video. I just bought the MS170 yesterday and am looking forward to using it. I also own a Poulan Farmhand 2900 20" bar but this saw should be an upgrade as far as reliability. It's nice knowing your saw still performs to your liking after 2 years of use and the bonus is seeing all of the informative comments, even the mean ones. I look forward to many years with the MS170.
It can cut it, but that's not what it's meant to do. If you have one or two such logs, you're fine. If you're cutting them all day, you're going to have a bad time.
I bought my ms 170 12 years ago and I will cut anything even big trees this saw was intended for ocasional use like you said in the video. But I will say that this saw has been put threw alot with me I have cut close to 40 cords of wood with only this saw and still runs good. All you have to do is keep good fuel and oil and maintain the saw. And I do have bigger saws but I like this one the most
+Andrew Tiefry you sound like you know what your doing and that's a big difference in owning this saw. Keep the Chain sharp and it will cut bigger stuff fine.but most people have no idea how to maintain and keep a chain sharp and wanna cut 14-18 inch round trees all day.
A quick tip I got from a very experienced woodsman...you don't ever want to see sawdust coming out the back if the saw, you want large chips. I'm sure this is common sense to most but I'll bet some of you out there don't realize your chain is dull. When sharp, these saws will cut some very large logs and will do it all day long without killing your back.
This is a stihl ms170 I've never had any issue cutting ANYTHING. I cut my years fire wood plus several other people's with it every year. I've worked with pro loggers that only go as high as 300 series. Don't over think it. Cut safe and cut to your own skill level. This saw can do it all.
I picked up an MS170 for limbing, as you stated, but I insisted on the dealer upgrading to the .050-3/8 bar and chain. Mainly for durability and longevity of the chain sharpness. I've had mine going on three years and for a lesser expensive Stihl home owner saw, it does its job very well. Great job with the review. Oh...a slight muffler mod and adjustable carb replacement can make the saw more versatile. But for its intended use, I have left well enough alone with just the upgraded bar and am as pleased as you are with the saw as a whole. Cheers!! Zip~
yeah like i said great saw but really meant for smaller stuff. it will do it but compared to the bigger saws its not worth it. i should have done what you did with the upgraded chain.
The .050 bar and chain is a sound investment, just for the rigidity factor of both bar and chain. The sprocket doesn't need replaced and the .004 increase in bar width doesn't effect anything as far as fitment goes. Cheers! Zip~
One in the same IBoosted. The bar is thicker and the .004" increase is the width of the groove the chain rides in as as well as the width of the sprocket nose is a little heartier. Ultimately, I would like a 16" Stihl ES Bar, but if you can find one, they're around $100. The ES bars are one solid piece of steel machined with a replaceable sprocket nose where the Standard Rollamatic E bar is a three piece laminated construction. Both are good, the ES is just more durable and will last a lot longer. Hope this answers your question. Zip~
I have cut mine using my MS180c a little more horses that does cut enough wood to keep ya warm and then some . I have had mine for 4 years . That dinky tree is nothing for me that's bigger than the tree he's talking about sry but the 180c will do better over all . I am not from Ky but trust me I have used it in -2 & - 18 below zero weather last year no problems at all lol yeah . 😎
Must be your first Stihl.. they all have the single operation lever to allow one handed use. I’ve used my 170 to cut firewood for years and it still works great. I have a few different pro saws but always find myself reaching for the small MS170 homeowner saw because it’s light and nimble. Might take a few more seconds per cut but big deal.
very good description thanks. btw i'm so thankfull that you tell that the starting button is a crazy thing! i have Echo, Shindaiwa saws and before you start you pull the choke and as soosn as the motor run you push it down and start again. why Sthill doesn't go like that is a mytery for me
Excellent review and timely as they are on sale this week. No substitute for real life experience, really appreciate. Think I will look at a larger size.
I like mine too. I pretty much use it the same way. Bucking (limbing) limbs off after cutting a tree down and some small to medium tree cutting. Some of these guys talk about using it for larger trees and that’s fine if you don’t have many and don’t need to buy a bigger saw. But how you described it is about right on. 👍
This saw, like all Stihls in this genre, are designed to allow you single handed operation of the the throttle, choke and kill switch. Other saws don't offer that convenience, therefore, depending on the design can compromise safety. The Stihl saws allow you to start the saw, eliminate the primer and allow you to simply flick the switch with your thumb while maintaining control of the throttle and the body of the saw via the right hand (primary control hand of all saws). I've had this saw for 2 years and I've cut some gnarly big stuff with it. I've been able to cut with guys that have much more expensive Husqvarnas, Efcos and Jonsereds. I'm not saying that it cuts like a professional saw, but I've had many guys sitting and working on their $600+ saws while I'm cutting away maintenance free. Just watch the chain oil. Run it full bore in front of a piece of wood or the ground and make sure visible oil spray is present. If not, the little tube from the oil reservoir may have become clogged. And, I have cut many, many 20+ plus inch logs with this saw...you just have to work it through from both sides. As far as cutting 8" stuff all day, that's a walk in the park for this saw if the operator is capable. I cut a half ton today while also clearing limbs and picking olives.
Exactly my saying! Stihl saws are in this point perfect! Just single hand operation not like other saws with switches, knobs, primers ... that's bullshit! Very nice saw and of course that MS 170 will cut easily bigger logs.
I have cut over 50 full cords with my MS181 I sharpen my chain 1 stroke every tank full of fuel with a Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener. I can cut over a Rick of wood on a tankful of fuel in less than 35 minutes. I cut small stuff big stuff whatever. I cut 12" to 18" all the time. I have even cut down a Elm that was 28" diameter. Took me 1 tank of fuel and about 30 minutes to cut up the main trunk down both sides. Hold it wide open and let the sharp chain do the work, don't force the saw and bog it down. The chains hold up well and make a smaller 2hp saw cut like it has 3hp. The small Stihl chainsaws are the best for cutting firewood and if you can't cut it with a MS170 to a MS181 with a 16" bar you have a dull chain or your rakers are too high, not a lack of power.
Thanks for the review, Im after a saw to chop down 15 year old cypress trees and firewood from then on, glad you said it was designed for limbing, saves me buying it! Cheers cheers
I just picked up a used MS170 for $100 to replace a worn Poulan 3314. The MS170 came with a 16" bar and Stihl's Picco, narrow kerf chain. I've been using it for clearing an ATV trail around my property and light cutting. For cutting firewood, it's underpowered. But that is not the purpose of this saw. Its lightweight makes it perfect for trimming and light cutting. My MS170 fires right up, idles perfect if I set it down and has been a nice addition to my collection of saws. I was skeptical of the .043 narrow kerf chain, but it has held up just fine. Its easy to sharpen and seems to hold an edge better than some of my other chains. This saw goes along with me when I take the ATV out two tracking. Its compact size and lightweight are handy for clearing fallen trees that would make passage impossible otherwise.
Do you have plastic felling wedges to pound into the cut, to release your pinched bar and chain? You can pick them up at any saw shop. They're reasonably priced and last a long time.
Yep as a newbie I attempted to cut and remove a stump blunt the chain in less than a minute, however chains are cheap so I purchased 4 . For spare s . And sharpen the blunt one exactly cuts small stuff thank you buddy
I have worked a few months with this machine, it is great. It is easy to use, if you know how to handle it. And yes, keep the chain sharp, but that is a rule for every chainsaw. Am i happy ,... YES, it does what is has to do.
Great review. I put a .50 14'' bar on mine and carry one in the back of my pick up most of the time. I routinely cut wood up to 14'', cut down brush in the back of a 10 ton trailer and drop trees with it too. Up to 14'' that is. I ve read reviews saying they won't stand up to tough use but I'm retiring my first one after 3 1/2 years of hard use. Well worth the money in my book. I've got 3 of them, a ported 362, a 461 and just got a 201 cm. A tree climber turned me onto them and said I would pick up the 170 80% of the time. He was right.
Finally a well put together review! Thanks Smightification. Your right about the choke/run settings, it's a little funny. I have a Stihl 026 since 1989 and still works fine. Same kind of choke/run switch. The reason they did-it like that, I think, is that in cold weather, you can warm-it up in mid choke by running-it a little without cutting anything, then go to run position and start working. You couldn't do that if you went from Mid-choke to Run by pressing the trigger. Thanks again, I'm considering the 170 for lighter work.
About the choke/run switch, I just re-read what I wrote and I was thinking about my edge trimmer!!. (It's getting late up-here). Let's start over: I'm pretty sure they do this set-up for durability & speed: Durability: If you take the cap off, you'll see that the butterfly is closed primarily by squizzing the handle (mine is like that) so you don't force the plastic switch that can break as you mentioned. Speed: To go from Mid-Choke to Run, you don't have to take your hand off the trigger handle. Think of the starting sequence: Put on full choke - Crank till engine makes noise - Simply tap switch one position up with a finger - Recrank - Hand on handle until job is done (pretty much). But you got valid points so I'll let you and the enginners of Stihl debate-it!
Wrong …. you put the choke on as described …. you pull until saw coughs and almost starts. You then move control up to warm position, then pull again and start the saw. You don't start it in the choke position!
Ive worm out two ms 170’s and a 180 doing 14-20 inch or more tree widths and it does good but you are right it’s not meant for cutting big wood consistent
The comments are a better review than the review. Here's a great hint too clean the exhaust screen if you want the saw to run good . Found this out the hard way.
I totally agree with the person's statement below mine. I've cut down big pines and today cut off 8 to 10 inch branches off of an oak tree. Sharpen and tighten down that chain! I cut up a 36 inch trunk of oak it took some time and gas but it did it!
Just picked up this saw with upgraded bar 14" bar per the dealers recommendation. I was shocked how well this little saw cuts. Also got an extra chain, oil, and premixed fuel for a little over $200. Time will tell how it holds up. Thanks for the review.
I just bought one to clean up the limbs and trunk a buddies Stihl 2xx series took down in my backyard, and I thought the chain dulled down faster than I expected.
Just got this saw today. Cut 8" logs like a hot knife through butter. Have a poulan 62cc saw and it doesn't seem to have as much power or cut as good as this little 30cc saw. It's great dont know why this guy thinks you can only cut twigs with it.
Totally agree. Good saw for what it is. Had one for about 3 years it ran good until the throttle linkage started disconnecting its self. If I had to cut 8" logs all day I'd grab my 261, not even a question choosing between the two. Love how people say this will cut 20 inch plus logs. I can eat soup with a fork also. Don't understand why people have such shallow pride in an inanimate object.
Just picked one of these up. We have multiple saws around the farm, needed a lighter one we could just grab and nip off various bits and pieces. For heavier work, we will grab the bigger saws. However, I suspect this little guy will see the most use due to its weight. As with any saw, always make sure its sharp. Properly oiling. Correct fuel to mixing oil ratio, and of course proper chain tension. If you do all that, it'll cut. The diameter of a tree really doesn't mater too much, its all wood. If the tree is bigger than the length of the bar, you have to change cutting technique and cut from both sides. These techniques are actually described in the saw manual. Check it out, or get instruction on it from someone who knows. The benefits of a bigger saw is speed of cut, but bigger saws are also much heavier which means you get tired faster. So think of it this way, if I can make say 10 cuts with a big saw before I get tired. With a little light saw like this, I could do potentially 20 cuts even if each cut was slower, because I didn't have to stop and take a break and I could keep on cutting through that time I would otherwise be resting.
I appreciate this video. Being able to see what a saw looks like with experience in the machine. EDIT: this saw would work better with a Yellow chain. As a opposed to a Greenie. Anti Kickback isn't necessary for such a small 2 hand saw. If it was top handle maybe.
the choke is perfect - its made for one person to use , a methodical slow approach to using their equipment - some people get small saws and they are off to some dream world thinking they are Mr Oregon - the dream wears off them they stop looking after the gear - lever breaks sells cheap to someone else
I have had mine for around 3 years. Lately i have been useing it to take down and buck a bunch of trees. It bogs down on thick stuff but i have been working with it. Mine doesn't get dull as long as i cut fresh wood and the chain never touches the ground. The moment i cut old dirty wood it dulls quit
Totally appreciate this! I was checking out the last few reviews before I went & bought one. This was what I honestly needed to see. Especially as a homeowner looking for something to do what it does. Thank you!
You can cut a LOT of wood with a 170. I have a 170, 261, and a 362. I cut 22-25 loads of wood a year. The big saws stay in the truck until I need them. My 170 has a 14" bar, it will easily cut 10-12" stuff. If you have any experience with chainsaws you should know you can change that chain and bar to a .050 chain and get much better performance out of it.
Ive done the 3/8 - 0.50 chain and bar upgrade. Also i cut logs up to 12" and it doesn't struggle at all. It is my second saw, i run the ms310 with a 20". with these two dropping and limbing is a breeze. Running two saws is the way forward.
This guy has no idea what these saws are capable of. As with all saws, if you keep it in tip top condition it’ll perform the tasks set within reason. Common sense prevails.
I have this saw. Great saw but it struggles to cut anything larger than 8 inches in diameter even with the mods I've done. It's only 30cc. My bigger saw is a 46cc 20" bar and it cuts larger diameter logs like warm butter.
For me the type of wood I’m felling is what makes me pick the saw. Example, jack pine my MS 170 is got it covered. Oak and Elm I’m up grading to a saw with more horse power. Nice video on great little starter saw.
Thanks for the review. I just got one for xmas. Its only going to be used on my ATV to clear limbs and small dead fall from the trails in the spring. Hopefully it works well.
I've got one of these and i think it's brilliant for the size of the engine Keep the blade sharp a maintain the Saw and it will do what you want it to do
I have same saw... definitely fine for 6 inch logs I have cut quite a bit bigger but no good on larger logs. Gets blunt after about 4 cuts and needs sharpening. I would say 8 inch logs and below it’s fine. Chain always gets loose very quickly.
Hey bud thanks for the review.... i just bought a used one and i was wondering if the "brake lever"/ handle don't know how to call it is as stiff on yours as it is on mine? Also is it normal that it is pushing against the orange top plastic casing/cover? Seems like the left hand side of the lever (side opposite to the blade) is somewhat too close to the plastic... It is also very hard ton engage so hard it feels like you're going to break it....Not sure if i make sense here... but if you could give me your opinion that'd be great.. Thanks!
I'm guessing you sharpen it manually. Mine did exactly like yours, sharp for a couple of cuts and loses its edge. My mistake was the wrong file size. I used the same file I use for my bigger saws and didn't think I needed to change even though it's a smaller chain but I was wrong. Try use the right file and the edge stays sharp longer
I don't see a problem with the choke/throttle set up on these saws. Its pretty much standard on all Stihl saws and it works well. The only issue I've seen with mine is that it really doesn't oil the chain as much as I'd like. I've always felt that the oiling system was a little too light duty on these and the other similar models they make that use the same oil pump. (up to an MS250).
I love this chainsaw! I put a thicker gauge chain on it and it fuckin cuts anything! People say it’s not powerful. I beg to differ that. Mine cuts anything. 16 inch bar with a skip tooth chain. Others may have different opinions but this saw is very good.
had my first contact with a 170 when I had to fix one the front heatshield or whatever that piece is for came loose at the bottom, caused the exhaust gasses to blow down directly towards the plastic case, subsequently melted the oil tank. you can really see the cost cutting when you have to service this saw bent the sheet metal bit to where it would sit tight on the muffler again, replaced the oil tank, used aluminum tapee wherever possible in that area to give it a chance to live a bit longer, the muffler heatshield for the case is no longer available so I had to improvise.
Had the same saw for many years and even though it was second hand when I got it, it just kept going. Great little saw & could use it all day. Never did cut piddly little twigs with it though, only half to full bar length stuff (or sometimes bigger) with no probs. & like you mention, the only bad thing on it was the choke.
Good review from someone who has actually owned and used the saw for a good length of time. I especially like your opinion of the choke. I don't think I would like that feature at all. Good job thank you.
I have a GREAT idea! Since you think this saw is only good for about a four inch log, lets take the 16" bar off and put a four inch bar and chain on it. THERE FRIXED TO PERFECTION?
My saw will leak the bar oil in the case bottom? It is 2 years old used it once cut down a small dogwood tree. Should I it leak the bar oil out in storage? Just wondering. It is the exact same as this one.
