This was the first carburetor clean and rebuild I have ever done. Your video was excellent and the chainsaw (MS 290) runs beautifully. Word of warning that not only should one empty the fuel tank, but also run the chainsaw to get the fuel out of the line to the carburetor. When I pulled out the carburetor, I was showered with a spray of gasoline! Thank you very much.
Very good and detailed video. I was getting ready to remove the carb and noticed that the holes in the fuel tank vent were completely clogged. I cleaned them out with a sewing needle and tried to start it for what seemed like the 20th time and sure enough, it started right up. I never would have even consider this a problem without this video. Thanks again for you attention to detail.
Thank you sir! just what I needed. Walbro carbs are made right down the road from me, here in Michigan. They have answered the phone and kindly helped in the past. US
I was worried how slow and methodical this was, but actually very helpful. I have a nearly identical Stihl, a Farm Boss, and learned a lot with watching your well placed screen shots. I have one that won’t stay running and wondering if just a carb issue. I also appreciated you editing through the steps and cutting out the mundane...Spaying that inflammable. Classic! Great video to see all the parts of the carburetor and how they are connected. Carb didn’t look that bad. I wonder if you really needed a rebuild and could have just be cleaned or soaked like another commenter said.
I am not an expert, either, but I have an engineering background and have been working on stuff for nigh onto 50 years. I have an 029 that I picked up after it had been straight gased. I have owned 290 and 291, so I am very familiar with this saw. Every time I get something fixed on the 029 it comes back with something new. I put a Chinese cylinder and piston in it last month and now it does not have enough compression to crank it. I have a new cylinder and piston from hL supply ready to go in it. I should hate the 029 with as much problems that it has caused me but I consider it a challenge. Not that I have not considered just dropping it in the trash can on more than one occasion. I think I have seen just about everything it has to offer and it has been a great experience working on it. It has taught me a lot.
great vid love the close up details, I always use a blow gun to blow all the saw dust and junk from the carb area before I take the air filter off THANX!
Great video! And methodical enough for me to comprehend while checking out my MS290 at the same time. One thing I did notice was that your saw didn't have a couple of 8mm hex nuts that hold down the carburetor independent of the air filter screws (mine has them). There are recesses on the back side of the filter housing that will accommodate those nuts if you wanted to install them on the studs.
Thank you for posting the video with good close-up views of the parts! You took you time and it was well worth the 1/2 hour. The carb on my MS250 was very similar to yours, and my saw got to where would not start. Cleaned up the carb with Gumout, swapped out the gaskets, and got it started on 4th pull!
After watching this, I want to order a carb kit for my MS290. Its running great right now but I am sure things are degrading somewhere. Thank you for the video.
Nicely done! My ms290 is going on 7 years and needing some carb attention. I blew out the fuel filter, next is to replace the fuel filter, and then if those fail, to do a carb rebuild.
That light brown piece is the pump diaphragm. Sometimes they are clear or even blue. The form a check valve typ operation in the pump side of the carb. The diaphragm on the metering side is usually black and has an aluminum ring in the center. The gasket on the pump side separates the passageways in the pump side cover. All the gasket on the metering side does is seal the metering side. The pump side has one screw and the metering side has two or four screws - two on a Zama and four on a Walbro
I use a business card which is .010 thick. Some folks use .012 but I stick with the standard business hard. I also have a brass .010 feeler gage that I could use. You cannot use a regular steel feeler gage because the magnet on the flywheel will suck it right in. I just rotate the flywheel until the magnets are near the coil and with the bolts on the ignition coil partially loose I insert the business card between the flywheel and the two poles of the coil. I then continue to rotate the flywheel (CW) until the magnets in the flywheel suck the coil towards the flywheel. I then tighten the bolts on the coil and rotate the flywheel in reverse until I can remove the card. I then rotate the flywheel through one revolution to make sure it does not contact the coil. On an 029,290 or 291 make sure you route the coil wire up the little slot in the rear wall and not under the rear wall. You will have to remove and reinstall the spark plug boot to do this. Make sure you get the electrical connector back in the boot, correctly, and centered, so it can connect to the spark plug.
I try to use genuine Walbro parts when I can. It is a K10-HD, but some Chinese parts are pretty good, but I hate having to go back in a carb after I just rebuilt it, hence the use of genuine Walbro parts. I set the lever on an HD level with the top of the carb body and a WJ level with the top of its little slot.
Thank you very much for this helpful video. My chainsaw is ready to have exactly the same surgery ;-). Nice and easy. Great way of explaining things. I bet you're a lovely grandfather too ;-)
My 029 threw a new one on me, yesterday. She blew off her fuel filter, which caused me to have to clean her carburetor much better than normal. I cleaned every orrifice on it. The debris it sucked in had caused the lifter to be stuck in the full open position and she would puke gas out the spark plug hole like a baby every time I tried to un-flood her. 😩
Umm, I have 2 nuts that secure the carb, that screw on before re-attaching the air filter. They hold the carb in place, the air filer bolts don't do this. Bur if your way works, who cares.... Thanks for the video, it made everything easy.
This series of saws are known to break the little snap connector on the rear handle which causes the Master Control Lever to become unsnapped when you press it into cold start. I have used a cable tie to keep it connected in its slot. Not to tight, though
It looks like you may not have gotten the screw that holds the needle/clip/spring assembly fastened down tightly. As you were tightening the screw, it looks like your screwdriver slipped out of the center of the screw head, causing a portion of the screwdriver to extend outside the diameter of the screw head. As you attempted to tighten the screw, that portion of the screwdriver extending outside of the screw head appears to have been obstructed in its movement by the body of the carburetor. The resistance caused by this obstruction probably mimicked the sensation of a tightly fastened screw, when, in fact, the screw in question may not have actually been tightly seated. To observe what I'm describing, start at about the 24:19 mark in the video and watch the next 5 seconds.
Helpful video, BUT major error at 25:47. He put the diaphragm onto the the body BEFORE he installed the gasket. Wrong. The gasket must be installed first onto the body, then the diaphragm goes onto the gasket, and finally, the cap/cover is installed. With the diaphragm installed incorrectly it will interfere with operation. To assure yourself of the correct way, study the frames from 19:43 to 20:11.
I know this is weird, but this video shows at about 0:54 a Stihl carb (different type, though) with the gasket on the outside, diaphragm on the inside, just like he does it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XSrcW3PJ0wQ.html
Glenn Troester was about to write the same thing. Surprised the carb performed well after the rebuild. Metering diaphragm never goes on to the body of the carb, always on top of the gasket instead flush with the outside cover.
infidel heretic in that video you posted. 0:54 shows the Pump Diaphram being flush with the carb body which is always correct, but a Metering Diaphragm never goes on the same way. Glenn is correct, the gentlemen in this video installed it incorrectly. It’s amazing it ran as well as it did. Having said all that charlyfarly2 did an awesome job making this video. Well paced and video was done quite well. Definitely one of the better videos on RU-vid for this repair.
Instead of a rebuild I soak mine in Seafoam cleaner from the autoshop for 2 hours. It's clear when you start then turns amber color as it breaks out the plaque. Usually caused by ethanol fuel.
one of the best videos I have ever watched on chaisaw repair. I have this exact saw. Im about to have a nervous breakdown however trying to get the carb adjusted. any help would be appreciated.
On an HD the gasket goes on first and the diaphragm, second. Consult the Walbro service manual on their website. Since they do not make the HD, anymore, you will have to look at the HDA manual for details.
I don't want to knock your video it is good. But the section where the diaphragm & gasket are layered you put it back together on the wrong order in reference to how it was originally. A)- It's gasket first on the carb. B)- Then the diaphragm on top of the gasket. C)- Then the cover and screw. If the order is reversed you will not get the right gas flow and it may run bad or not at all. I thought this is important to clarify.
elieve you placed the gasket and rubber diaphragm over the needle valve in the wrong order. The gasket should be against the carb body and the rubber diaphragm is between the gasket and the cover. This is opposite to the other cover on the opposite side where the gasket rests against the cover and the other diaphragm is against the carb body.
I think that you but it back wrong. The rubber gasket goes on before the metering diaphragm! This allows a correct height for it to move back and forth. The way you put it on limits it’s upward movement.
I checked to see if there where lock washers behind the two nuts. Surprised to see this video where he takes the air filter off and the two nuts that secure the carburetor are missing altogether. That means there isn't a good seal to the rear of the carburetor.
I guess it takes plenty of patience and a steady hand to do the job. OK so he made a mistake but I'm sure the machine will run. A slight mistake like that shouldn't hurt anything.
I like your video right up to where you pushed the chain saw back and forth like a hand saw. ??? There is no reason to do that, the chain saw moves the chain teeth just fine all by its self. Have a nice day.
There's always an ass in every crowd. You criticize him then say,. "have a nice day." There's no reason to post a comment telling someone else what to do when they didn't ask for your opinion on how to do it in the first place. Have a nice day.
Hope you're doing well Charlyfarly2. You made this video over 3yrs ago and it's one of the very best I've seen...and I've seen a lot♥ Someone mentioned earlier that during the installation you mistakenly placed the metering diaphragm onto the carb body first. Was wondering if you corrected that error or is the saw still running well? Cheers
The fuel inlet arm is in a raised position from the carb body.How do you gage the height of the arm that is activated by the diaphragm button.I would assume that if the height was wrong the engine would flood.
You know when I take anything apart which has more than 12 steps I take a video of it so Il know how to put it back together and ensure I don't forget anything, lol
How big did you set the metering side lifter - level with the top of the carburetor body? That is the normal location for most Walbro carburetors. Or, did you just put the new lever in and leave it at its new height?
For season change. Winter and summer. For the MS290 there is a rubber part that also needs to be changed for season. Once that is done, the plastic part will be placed in slot. There is a sun on one side and a snowflake on the other.
This guy might be able to fix a carb. His operating skills are not good tho. You dont need to do a sawing motion while running a chainsaw there bub. Bite the dogs in and give er hell. Theres my .02
