@@EveryoneHarmonyPeace add 3 more number 9s after the dot and you'd be about right. Barely anyone is a rock climber (compared to the overall population) and even less people can climb an 8a, let alone onsight it
@@EveryoneHarmonyPeace not really. Considering most climbers are amateurs, the best grade they can climb is 7a/7a+. Not so sure about onsighting it. I'd say the average climber can onsight a 6c but 7a is where the trouble begins
Just in case Olav is reading, a small advice I wish I heard as a beginner - try not to focus on the progress too much, but more on just having a good time. Even if you're climbing with Magnus, getting better will take a long time, so if you don't wanna be discouraged after 2-3 months, don't set the expectations too high. ;)
"sometimes feeling too strong makes you want to climb too controlled...." great insight. Spot on - definitely been guilty of that looking back on things.. but never really thought about it before or realised it. Another great blog. Loving the format with the bro. Nice one geezer!!
Seeing you give tips and advice to your brother is super helpful, especially since I climb at the same level as him right now. Your content is awesome, subbed!
Consider to write "Onsight Attempt" instead in upcoming videos... ...It is much more exciting to watch, when you don't know if you will send the route/boulder. Great videos though!
When i bring new people to the gym i always say "have fun, don't think about grade". And honestly, by just climbing 2-4 times a week i think most people can get up to 6c/7a.
Dude Olav’s climbing is so good already ! Feels like what he lacks most is confidence and endurance ! His footwork is really nice ! Also, i have a suggestion : could you show us your food sometimes ? Not in every single vlog, but i think it’d be interesting from time to time :) Keep up the good work, your vlogs are better and better
One of my favs. SO sweet to hear you help/analyze your bro and voiceover your own climbing, esp pointing out the crux and such. Helpful, interesting and fun....and as always, inspiring!
Love the videos Magnus! My girlfriend is working 6b and I'm working 7c+, so we both love seeing progress at different levels... Thanks for the vlog, we love it :) Cheers from Banff, Canada!
So much value out of your vlog and it its for free. I learn just by watching and listening to your comments. Top notch work just like your climbing gym which was a pleasure to discover. Awesome sauce !
I like the Olav training concept. Btw it would be fun if you finished the videos where he trains with a list of milestones he reached and things he needs to work on and how to do it. Wouldn't take much longer time because you already say it in the video, and would make it easier for us to follow
I don't really care about the sound. At least as long as it stays like this. It's not bad at all, and in the end it's the content and the story you tell that matters. Not the sound or video-quality.
I think that with the vlog it's candid and informal anyways, so the quality of the content itself is way more important than anything else. The G7X is a nice convenient camera as it is, and can still take excellent stills and B roll like you show.
Love the way this vlog is always getting better, and the edits always smoother. One little editing tip: when replaying small fragments of shots (like when you replayed the quick shot of you falling going for the gaston) it's best to leave a little extra space (a few frames-half a second) on the front end of the action you're cutting to, so the viewers can "catch" what you're cutting to show. A lot of classic Hong Kong action movies are great examples of how this works to make the transitions between shots "smoother" to the eye, by leaving in a few extra frames of overlapping movement. (so if a sequence of things between two shots is ABCD, one shot contains ABC, and the next shows CD, so that viewers can readjust on the C)
Pretty cool videos magnus keep it up!... ive never climbed before and somehow im just very excited to give it a try after watching many hours of your videos you make it look to easy
Your gym uses a lot of volumes (more than other gyms you have been to?). How do you feel that helps in making the routes better? Also, it would be awesome if you had done a vlog about the setting process Adam, Louis and Kenneth do on a daily basis sometime in the future
Do you do any cardio activities for your training; ie; running, biking, etc? Also if you get someone to belay a videographer near you with a wider lens the footage will show the extreme angles more and you'll be able to see what you're doing. I personally love the route footage, but also understand it's difficult to coordinate video.
Magnus I challenge you to a 45 second one arm lockoff. (you start roughly at 90degree angle, and are done when elbow drops below 45degrees) Best wishes!
Magnus I'm a spanish boy who has no idea of climbing, never climbed in my life, but I really want to. I heard you're going to come to Malaga (I'm from Cadiz though), is Chilam Balam a good place to climb for the first time? Or should I go somewhere else? Definitely I'd rather a gym, but there aren't any here, as far as I know
Hey Magnus, when I climb a few days in a row I end up with a lot of pain in my lower biceps. Do you ever get this? and if so is there anything you would recommend to prevent it or help it get better?
I noticed Olav tends to clip a bit "late" as he progresses through the route, i.e his upper body is already on the same level, or above the clip, sometimes the next clip is almost within reach. Not being knowledgeable in the ways of lead climbing, I'm wondering whether this is adequate form, or if it doesn't really matter as long as you clip?
As you say it doesnt really matter too much so long as you clip in (Obviously nearer to the ground you may have some exceptions to the rule, however low clipping usually creates bigger falls than a run out clip). The key with lead climbing is making sure that you clip from the best most secure position and not falling into the habit of clipping from a low position because you're scared when there is actually a much better position a metre higher up. If you watch Magnus climb he clips from all sorts of heights in order to make sure he is the most efficient with energy use and clipping from the best spot. Generally once you are above about clip 4 it would be almost impossible to hit the floor (with a good belayer) so then it become all about efficiency rather than safety.
slnmnsk Also counterintuitively, if you fall whilst clipping early there is more slack in the system (equal to the distance from your harness to the clip above you) which can result in a bigger/more dangerous fall. Recently I've been really focussing on avoiding the temptation to clip early unless the route setters have clearly given a secure place to do it from, or before a risky crux move like Magnus did in the video.
