STOCK 1600 or 1776 still the most reliable VW air cooled flat 4 engine ? 

Thickness at the cylinder tops: The new 92 mm from AA (4.55 mm) Modern machine-in 88 mm (4.5 mm) Stock 85.5 mm (4.15 mm) Modern 90.5 mm (3.75 mm) 94s mm (3.55 mm) 87 mm slip-ins (3.4 mm) Old 90.5 mm (3.25) Old 92 mm (3.0 mm) 88 mm slip-ins (2.9 mm) (Credit to jpaull)

G'day Mike, So much awesome information to digest. You should put a parts list together using a dual relief mag case. Aimed at the guy trying to make ends meet but end up with a dependable engine. There is just so much information about its a gamble just buying parts. Every supplier saying buy this. It's so easy to get burnt. So thankyou for sharing man ✌️ peace from Melbourne Australia.

So much info, will watch this a few times. A big thanks for sharing.

Great video, I learned a few things that will help me down the road

Thank you, Mike, for sharing your deep expertise with air cooled VWs. I have owned a VW based kit car since 1975. I had its type 3 engine built to 1776 in 1978. I've had some top end and carburation improvements done to it. I would be interested in making some power improvements to it but I hate to tear down a bottom end that's still going strong, LOL! It sounds like should like an aluminum case and 78mm stroke are good, reliable options. Thanks again.

Love these technical videos Mike! I’m learnt g a lot. 👍

Way back in the late eighties used a new AS21 case when we rebuilt my father's 1600. One thing of note was we checked the valves but they were always good and they just didn't need adjustment like the original engine.

Hey Mike ! the 69 crank would last longer pushing a bunch of weight . You are right about the more the stroke the more case clap . Also where the big case nuts the washers will imprint into the case which is like loosening the nut . They use to sell what was called Porsche type nuts with built on washers .

Great video and information, thank you.

Thanks for the information.

Really nice info thank you 😊

Great vid Thanks

Hey mike great Info bro cheers

Great video !!!

Best engine I ever built was a 1776 (built in early 90's) VW AS21 FI case, first cut on all -shuffle pinned on all mains -already had been setup for 10mm studs -barrel holes cut for the following: ---the Mahle barrels, on the side that was inserted into the case, that 'thickwall' was trimmed on a lathe to half it's thickness, this allows for correct locating (in the case) but keeps the case from being opened up more than needed. This trick can be done on any thickwall cylinders -rear main seal and rear cam seal drainbacks opened up a bit Rebuilt 69mm cw crank from Bugpack, first cut on all Mahle/Cima 90.5mm barrels/pistons Total Seal Gapless top ring Rebuilt VW rods from Bugpack Rebuilt 12lb flywheel from Bugpack Chromoly Gland nut from Bugpack Engle 110 Cam Rebuilt lifters from Bugpack Chromoly pushrods from CB 1:25 Lifters/shaft from CB VW 041 heads redone with Datsun single valve springs (valve float somewhere beyond 6.5k) -Spark plug redone for NGK's -SS Manley Valves (stock 041 sizes) -no porting Dell dual 40's -32 vents Gene Berg 1.5" merged exhaust with Stinger -baffled it after the first week lol Bosch 009 with CompU Fire points Bosch Blue Coil The engine just ripped! And I beat on it all the time. Only time it failed was from too much valve float caused a dropped valve seat. It rev'd so easily, I needed a rev limiter but, the addicting thing is with valve float is that it feels like vtec on the top end due to the valve floating an adding duration.....ya. great at that moment, horrible on the valvetrain. 😆

1641 is with 87’s and 1679 with 88’s. I like a 2007 cc dispacement. Motorav in Brazil; an OEM VW supplier is now supplying the AS41 magnesium alloy cases under their name but they’re like $1,600.00.

First five minutes of this talk summed up why I stuck with stock size crank and barrels when rebuilding my H-Code 1500. Even though the engine has performance mods I wanna be able to drive this thing on a regular basis without any worries. AA has been a gamechanger however and if I ever decide a CC upgrade is needed AA will be the way to go. way cheaper than Mahle and seems to do the job. Been a while since you've done of these talks Mike, almost feels nostalgic!

The 1500 that was in my mothers 1965 split window bus was a good engine that would go for 130,000 to 180,000 miles with oil changes, valve adjustments, and tune ups. The worst motor was the 1600 dual port that mom had in her 1971 bus. The 1600 dual port loved to suck valves down into the crankcase, and damage the piston in the number 3 cylender. In 100,000 miles the motor had to be rebuilt 3 times. A relstive had the 1776 in a 1972 bus that was reliable like our old 1965 bus.

A 1776 with dual 40 dellortos is the sweet spot.

Great informative video. You had briefly talked about the durability of the type 4. What about a type 4 upright conversion to type 1? Is that possible?

I’m on my second 1776 this one has dual 40’s 40 mm heads fat boy exhaust my previous one was single carb and stock heads. The builder called it a stock 1776.

Great video as always.1776 motor. Great content.kudos 👍👍👍😎😎😎

I started saving and buying parts to build my first engine from Gene Berg when i was 13. I used to read that tech book and parts catalogue like it was the bible. I think my crank was $600 for a swedish metal 82mm if i remember.

The best combination for reliability and power is 82mm X 90.5mm.= 2110cc.

This is helpful. I would like to recreate the same engine used in the 9th Infantry Division Chenowth Fast Attack Vehicles (FAV) which had a 6 Rib Transaxle, pushed by a 1984cc Engine, Brazillian Magnesium AS41 Case, 90mm Bore; Case clearanced at 96mm Heads 98mm (Contemporary 90.5mm Pistons 92mm thin wall Cylinders fit) 78mm Stroke, Modified German Crank, counterweighted and machined by DPR; Japanese J331 Rods clearanced for Stroker; Cam-260 Degrees at 0.050" total lift at valve 0.375"- I was told Engle can possibly machine this cam?) Brazillian 040 Heads 52cc; Deck Height 2.4mm, shim under cylinder 0.25mm (0.010") Calculated compression 8.4:1 This would be going in a restored former military Chenowth 2LW early Fast Attack Vehicle. I get your argument of aluminum being stronger than the magnesium but in this case it is something historic being recreated not a maximum performance per dollar spent project. There is a guy over in Alabama who has a AS41 Magnesium Case for $300 that, Lord willing, is still viable for rebuild. If you have any wisdom to pass on I am all ears.

I prefer a 74 or 76 crank with 5.5 rods and b stroker pistons. Chevy rod bearings reduces clearancing.

I like 1904cc for a solid daily. 90.5 x74 bore stroke ratio is pretty close to stock 85.5 x 69

I like to add smoothness. And for that, the best thing I do is put a counterweighted 69mm crank in my stockers and dynamically balance ALL rotating assemblies(FW, clutch/PP, fan, pulleys. Static balance rods, pistons pins. Makes a huge difference imo. I’m sure longevity benifits too.

Great video. You have built a 1904 and a 2007 motor in the past, can you feel the difference in power between the 2? You made them both strong and reliable.

My 69 baja has a 1776 Wich has been completely reliable for the past couple of years I’ve had no issues with heat or lack of power only regret was straight cut cam gears don’t bother its annoying noise and wasn’t necessary

I see a VW Golf MK1 grill there~

Yeah but, you can't set an aluminum case on fire and kick it down the hill on Saturday night , eh.

@Mikefngarage When acquiring a used VW, what is the best way to determine need for rebuild and/or replacement? (Other than assuming all old VW's need a new motor). I have a 1969 Bug with a running 1500cc engine, no flickering oil light, no play at the crankshaft pully, but it has sat for many years without being ran. Is it best to just run it until you have problems, or is there some good pro-active advise that does not break the bank or involve a full rebuild/new motor?

I got the same damned shirt !!

Hey, I have a question what's your opinion about mexican fuel injection cases? there are aluminum and dual relief but does not have the chofelpin to main bearings . I was thinking make a 1904 but recently change my mind and I want to make a 2054 for the extra horse power. Pd I will run fuel injection

It's been my observation that the life expectancy of "Hot Rodded" VW engines is about 10 days.

What is considered a stock 1776 ?

1904 cc

no ! 65 1200 is the most reliable if left stock. although the 68 1500 was not bad. the 34 pict carb is not reliable. the 30 pict is better. dont like dual port heads because you need a special tool to pull the plugs. single port heads are a better design.

My 1641sp is more reliable then my 1600sp

gimmic! h-beam rods are for suckers and people with more money than brains. if they were the best then they would be the best no matter what size, rpm or unit power is passing through one of these air cooled motors. examine what comes from any manufacturer's factory engine no matter the size, rpm or unit power. just pick one, any one, and it will come with I-beam rods and, no, air cooled motors aren't special. listen to what the world's engineers are telling you. I-beam - they are inherently stronger.

What is this about?

I have singleport H and B case engines. Both now with 85.5 (1600) barrels and pistons. Both have will over 50 k miles, and are still strong. Every thing was built to original specifications. Including FP, Dizzy, and carb. A relative has a dual port, AK case, set up the same way with approaching 100 k without problems. They also have a FI type 3 with well over 150 k. And at one time had a FI type 2. With ….get this …..323 k. Before being scrapped for rot problems. It retained the original heads, and clutch as well. IMO it’s not worth the time and hassle of building anything but stock. Save maybe a small bump in displacement.