I've been growing hydro for over 20 years and still use the General Hydroponics 3 part system with CalMag and a couple other additives, and i never flush. I really do not notice much of a difference. The secret is proper curing after trimming. I've been wanting to put together an Arduino controlled drying box that adjusts airflow depending on the interior humidity of the box to get the perfect cure. Has anyone else done something like this without buying a super expensive commercial set-up?
Excellent show gang! We need more outdoor grow content. OD 2024 season is just about to kick off. Lets help the OD growers grow some trees! I'm looking to beat my personal best single plant yield and hit over 10lbs on a single plant.
The whole ash color thing also depends on the cure as well. If you smoke stuff that’s a little too moist I don’t care what you’ve done the ash will be dark. Super dry crumbly stuff always has a lighter ash color too.
You guys should talk some about brix levels. And how to raise your brix levels. When getting into flushing brix levels come into play. The brix levels of leaves and stems must be matched by an adequate brix reading in the sap (juice). If brix levels are high in leaves and stems, but not to par in sap, we can assume that there's stress on either nitrogen or calcium/magnesium. Brix readings will also remain high throughout flowering as long as the plant was initially fed well during vegetation. Nutrient ratios should be monitored to prevent brix readings from dropping too low during flowering. That's why I would like to see brix testing to go with the flushing test.
Right there is so many reasons u could use alot of electric what if ur hobby is seriously tanning everyday and u had multiple big tanning beds in your house for you and your spouse
@@cd123atd4e So many possible reasons that you have no need to ever even answer anyone regarding it. It's quite literally none of their business. This is a prime example of why any lawyer will tell you you should never talk to the police. They can and will lie, while you cannot. Anything you say can and will be used against you, while nothing you say will be used to benefit you. If you have ever thought "I can explain all of this"....don't, just STFU. Am I being detained? Am I free to go?, If they say you are being detained, lawyer up and shut up otherwise, say "I don't answer questions"
The controversy over ash color has gotten far out of hand. All that "gray" means is that the product has been fully combusted. Fire is not the same temp, depending on the source. Hempwick burns at a lower temp than butane, and thus the ash will be darker. Black, or dark gray ash is not a sign of anything wrong with your flower.
Never liked the idea of flushing. A lot of rain for fruit and berries at harvest kills the flavor and brix levels. Where if it's dry they have more flavor and higher brix levels. Also cold can bring up the brix levels. Look at ice wine. Kind of like fresh frozen. Surprised ice wine makers don't do the same. If you have a bunch of salts in your plants flushing just allows it to hold more water. I withhold water towards harvest. I want it to pull energies from it's leaves. Which means less chlorophyll too. I once had a 5 inch plant get hit by frost. I looked for days for that little stinky plant. Getting hit by frost really made it stink. You could smell it from 30 feet away. I would like to see brix levels tested with flushing. I can tell apples from the top of the tree kissed by the sun have higher brix levels then apples from the shade.
I once heard somewhere that water can be polarized to make the nutrients more readily available. I don't know if maybe it was my imagination, but I swear I was getting an uptick in growth and yield when I was using a pressure hand pump sprayer with a brass tip where the water comes out. Brass has a strong re-polarlization effect on water. I used to take all my water out of an empty 10 gallon fish tank with air stone bubblers. The air stones help stir oxygen into the water. I heard that buckets, watering cans, empty gallon jugs, and water reservoirs that are made out of plastic can cause the water to be unnaturally polarized, causing nutrient lock out. Maybe get more brass, ie fittings between flow points.
I always thought that if you switch over to a fertilizer program with little or no nitrogen about two weeks before perceived bloom. I would think that any nitrogen left in the soil would only lead to healthy natural elongation before the flowering phase. Maybe start to phase out the nitrogen even more earlier on. Plants can get really out of control in the veg.
I am never going back to bottled nutrients or plain organic amendments grow dots plus microbes for the win for extra credit use silica and some cal mag a couple times through veg and bloom
