Stop Wasting Money on T-Track! Here's a Better Solution. 

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Do they make them in 12mm shaft?

@@TheSmartWoodshop I have a few ENT straight bits with a 12 mm shank, but I've only seen their t-slot cutters with an 8 mm shank. I'll double-check and get back to you on that. The 8mm comes in different versions that can cut slots suitable to M5, M6, M8, or M10 bolts. You can buy them in a set or separately. If you google " ENT 09003 3-Piece HW T-Slot Cutter Set, Optimised for M5, M6 and M8 " (without the scare quotes), you should get a few hits. Personally I think their bits are better than the CMT orange bits, which are otherwise the best I can get hold of where I live.

PS - I found some Axminster clamps in England that works really well in routed t-slots. Google "AXMINSTER PROFESSIONAL QUICK ACTION GUIDE RAIL CLAMP".

Maybe?

Very welcome

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Woodpecker products are excellent. I went with Whiteside for the wider slot, which allows me to use a 25mm (1") washer. Since I've switched from knobs to cam clamps, I no longer need the bolt head to be trapped by the t-track, which opened up the opportunity to use the washer.

@@TheSmartWoodshop Totally agree just another option for the clamp size. And I am that thinks Woodpeckers makes really good and really useless overpriced stuff. Was actually reluctant on buying this bit as I try to only buy whiteside. But I am starting to think the cutting tools are worth the price.

@@sdsconstruction 😎👍

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My pleasure!

That may be true, but for most the plywood version is strong enough and more versatile (e.g. you can use clamps and cut the plywood to unlimited lengths without worrying about problems making multiple t-tracks flush). Ultimately it is all about preference. One method is not necessarily better than the other if for some people the durability might be an issue; but again, for most quality plywood will hold up just fine.

@@Technomandfw I routed t-slots into my plywood workbench 5 years ago, use it almost every day, and have never had a problem. Just used suitable clamps.

Aluminum would never be as strong as steel, but that doesn't mean steel should be used. If wood is strong enough, it makes no difference that aluminum is stronger if strength is your point of argument. Now, anodized aluminum does look nice, imo! And there's nothing wrong with making your tools look nice if it makes you feel happy. :-)

I’ve been using shop-made t-tracks for 5 years without any issues. Keep in mind that Slotwall is essentially wood panels with t-tracks cut into them, and they work well, supporting heavy items. If I had unlimited, free aluminum tracks, I’d still choose the integral wood track. The benefits of wood far outweigh the drawbacks.

Not at all

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There are lots of them some much much cheaper than the one he’s advertising

Yes, I see that. Click back on the video and hit play. In the lower-left corner of the video, there's a 'View Products' link, which opens a panel on the right with the tools we tagged. You can click on that link to order. The price is the same as Amazon, and it includes 3-day shipping. Hope this helps, Ron.😎🤙

​@@aiistytI checked before purchasing, and there are no less expensive options. There are lots of t-slot bits, but not with this profile. I found a few similar industrial cutters, but they were priced at $250-300. Don't be misled by the name 't-slot'-they're not all the same. I'd ask that you check the facts before making a comment.🤔

@@TheSmartWoodshop Okay, thanks Paul.

I have used my various shop made T-Track tools over 5 years and no divots yet.

You can use either, but I use ¼" amzn.to/4etGxlb

I haven't tried making anything with the Gripper Matchfit system. I'm fully committed to the MFT with 20mm holes, which provides me with unlimited clamping options, so the Matchfit system doesn't offer any additional advantages for me. I would imagine that if you search for 'MatchFit' here on RU-vid, you'll find plenty of videos about it.

Thanks. Yes, saw a couple of videos featuring that bit, was curious if you tried or liked it!

Good choice!

I don't understand your question.🤔

@@TheSmartWoodshop arent there adapters for the track saw tracks so you can mount about anything to the track as your base straight edge

Yes it is the 3075 not 3070. In the lower-left corner of the video, there's a 'View Products' link, which opens a panel on the right with the tools we tagged. You can click on that link to order. The price is the same as Amazon, and it includes 3-day shipping.

@@TheSmartWoodshop One of the links goes to wallmart the other to you store-both show out of stock

Not sure about scam, but unnecessary for sure.

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I don't understand your logic. That Festool miter saw may be overkill for most of us woodworkers. However if you make a living building and restoring homes, you need tools that are dead accurate and reliable. I know a couple woodworkers who own Festool products, and they do admit they are expensive. I have NEVER heard any of them ever say that the tool was a waste of money.

Do you think a track saw guide rail and t-track are the same thing?🤔

Yeah, that tool (the festool) is worth it to someone with Ron's ability. You may not benefit from it as much as he does---- but for his skills it's a great tool and surely worth the price for accuracy. I see the smily faces and know that you are kinda of joking, but Ron is a pro, top notch all the way and the Festool is a justified purchase in my opinion.

Thats a bad analogy and really doesn’t make sense in this case. Ron shows how his solution works better and cost way less. You cannot find tools that cost way less than Festool and also work better. It’s about value, not outright cost.

@@gregghernandez2714, I agree, but also keep in mind many people have had problems with the $1600 Kapex. Spencer Louis, for example, bought three Kapex miter saws over the years, and two of them had beds that were not perfectly flat and that is NOT something that you can fix (so people need to check for that). He gave up on Festool for years after that claiming his DeWALTs-with a quality bit-are just as accurate even if they lack some of the refinements. DeWALT’s DHS790, for example, was/is so accurate it was marketed specifically for making furniture right out of the box and mine cost almost $1000 less! It’s the same one Ron had and recommended for similar reasons. Spencer purchased the KAPEX again recently only because he was building a new miter station and needed its smaller footprint. Sometimes such refinements can be worth it as Ron has also pointed out. It’s all about a matter of preference. But unlike a miter saw, if the plywood is strong enough for someone’s needs (and it will be the vast majority of the time, then I agree it is superior for the reasons he stated. But there is one more problem I’m aware of with the KAPEX. Some uses have stated that their motors have burned out prematurely, but that is true of DEWALT and other companies as well. So the KAPEX may or may not be worth the money, but unless one has experience burning up plywood t-slots in plywood, I agree the comparison with Festool tools is apples and oranges in my opinion.