I put arrestors on the water pipes and it persisted. plumber couldn’t solve it. 18 years later I see this glorious video. I’m sorry it took me months to come back and thank you I’ve been in disbelief it works on the back of the washer. I’m so grateful to you. I know it’s too much to ask you to solve my loud in the living room furnace/ac closet problem, if I figure it out I will definitely tell you as a payback.
these things are awesome! for the past year the pipes have sounded like they were going to shake themselves apart every time the new washer would close the valves, the hammer arrestors solved the problem 100%! even if they last only a few years like some say it's about $20 for two so just replace them. one thing to keep in mind is the gasket in the old lines has probably seated and may have a slow leak when reconnected like mine did, so get new gaskets or even better replace the lines when installing these.
Thanks for the comment and great advice on the washer! This information will definitely help anyone thinking about tackling this install. All the Best!
once I have fitted the hoses, and turned the water back on, I set the machine to " wash " just to " bleed " the air out of the hoses, so that you test for water leaks, other wise, it might not show., here in the UK there is only a cold feed, these days. great video, thanks, especially about been careful to avoid " cross threading " the connections, and not to over tighten.
This helped lessen the hammering sound heard from the main living room and behind the walls adjacent to stairs - however, after installing the 2 mini water arrestors - a new hammering sound can be heard from behind the walls of the shower on 2nd floor ....
@MurCurieux - not having hammer arrestors fitted to w/m is not the problem, the manufacturers could make the w/m tap valves turn off softer or slower would remedy the problem
our machines are in a closet and I can't afford adding 4-6" of more "depth" like these arrestors would do...I'm looking but can't seem to find a low-profile arrestor if they make them -
I installed these a few years back and unfortunately they are not helping . I’ve installed exactly same as you. Would it matter if I tried them installed on the valves instead of the washing machine?
So I noticed that my pipes were banging in the master bathroom, so I replaced the shower cartridge and the shower handle, and that fixed it; maybe it will help someone too
LG makes a great machine I had my for 18 years but bang bang is always there with or without these arrestors they have the quickest solenoids in the west 👎‼️ bang bang is normal unfortunately a . I turned the feed taps down to almost input pressure and the pipes still bang.
they worked on my washing machine. Now when I take a shower, the hammering is transferred to my shower. My shower head shakes when the washer changes cycle. Should I put two more on the shut off valves to the washer? should I put them all over the house? Does anyone have any ideas?
Hi Gerald, that is extremely unfortunate. Do you have high water pressure to the residence? Has the water hammer been happening for awhile or has it occurred recently? Water hammer that severe can indicate high water pressure, or having a check valve on the main water distribution line. I would recommend either adding water hammer arrestors to the shower supply lines, if accessible or adding a potable water expansion tank to the main cold water supply line. Adding an expansion tank usually fixes most homes with water hammer issues. It's basically a large water hammer arrestor.
You're right, you can either put the water hammer arrestors on the shut offs or the washing machine supplies. Water hammer arrestors work best on washing machines being as close as possible to the solenoid valve though. On this particular setup it would difficult if not impossible to install the arrestors on the shut offs because the hoses, or the arrestors would contact each other. They would definitely work on straight shut offs or if there was more space between the shut offs.
@@PROSDIY - Isn't "Even Flow" suggesting installing the arrestors on the shut offs located on the wall rather than moving the washing machine and installing them on the machine's back? If installed on the wall, the contact possibility of arrestors/hose is no different than your current arrangement - correct? Or, am I missing my Thinking Cap today? (enjoyed your video)
@@bethanyanderson1745 The hose thread on the wall shut offs in this video are facing straight down. If you connect the arrestors to the shut offs on this setup either the 2 hoses are going to be too close together or the top cylinder portion of the arrestors are going to contact each other. If you have shut offs which are further apart or ones that have the hose thread facing straight out (away from the wall) then you could connect the arrestors directly to the shut offs. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for the comment!
Hi Web Cityx , It's unfortunate that it sounds like you've had a bad experience with this style of water hammer arrestor. Useless implies they don't work. They work exactly what they were designed for. Protecting against and reducing water hammer caused by the washing machine. Feel free to check out the 1000s of positive customer reviews on Amazon, Home Depot, and Lowes. All the Best!
Hi Web Cityx , It's unfortunate that it sounds like you've had a bad experience with this style of water hammer arrestor. Useless implies they don't work. They work exactly what they were designed for. Protecting against and reducing water hammer caused by the washing machine. Feel free to check out the 1000s of positive customer reviews on Amazon, Home Depot, and Lowes. All the Best!
I used these for my washer. It fixed the problem, but they only last a year. Happened 3 times. I finally stopped the water hammer permanently by closing the valves halfway to the washer.
before investing on a water hammer arrestor that has a lifetime of 1 year or so, try reducing the water pressure, easily done by closing the cold and hot water valves feeding the washer. this may increase the time it takes to fill the washer, but we are talking about few minutes. If you look further you will find that your house's water pressure service is higher than normal. it should be around 60 psi.
The real tips are always in the comments. This solved my hammer issue by closing off the valve by about half. I’m still going to replace the arrester, though. Mine just screw in so it’s a quick job. Cheers.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀 Water Hammer Arrestors: geni.us/bkJG6RW Washing Machine Hoses: geni.us/djCw Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
I have been living with water hammer since I got a new front loading washer about 4 months ago and have been stressing over what could happen to the joints but thought I had to do a major plumbing job to fix it because I didn’t know they had water hammer arrestors for the back of the washer. I have subscribed just to say thanks for letting us know.
This really helped me as our plumber had installed these at the wall/water supply which I hear is quite common? It didn't help at all so when I saw your video that showed you install them at the washer, I moved them from the wall to the washer and 2 years worth of water hammer was immediately fixed! Thanks so much for sharing!
I bought a new washing machine a few weeks ago. It did not take long for me to realize the solenoid valves in the washer were shutting off the water supply way too abruptly. The pipes in the house banged so loud, I was worried something might break. The banging got worse every time I used the washer. I was going to call my plumber to see if he had any recommendations. I also was worried it was going to damage the expansion tank. I found your video and thought I would give this fix a try since it was easy and relatively cheap to do. I installed the arrestors. It solved the hammer completely! Thank you! Thank you! Liked and subscribed!
Can one use a potable lead free expansion tank (not the kind for boilers) as say a whole house hammer arrestor, or do they have to be located at the faucets or appliances ?
Make sure you re-connect the hoses in the correct place???? How about you just do one at a time. Can't mix it up then. But thanks for the well-done video. Now off to the Depot
That's a great point. That would work as well. Going back in time I probably would have just said that lol. Good information for anyone else though. Thanks 😀
I recently installed 2 Oatey branded water hammer arrestors, just like yours on the video. I still have some banging; I am just wondering if the operative part (i.e. where the bladder and air cushion is) on the Oatey arrestor is too short? The operative part is 1 inch shorter than the Sioux Chief brand. What is your opinion?
Hello professor, from the instruction of Qatey, I screw Quiet Pipe to the valve not to the back of my washer. Then the pipe is still banging. So does it matter that where you screw the Quiet Pipe? Thanks.
I just installed the hammer arrestors on my LG washing machine and my pipes are still banging. This is a brand new machine. Didn't happen with my old Electrolux. I think maybe the lines are too long??
Thank you so much for your video we been having hot water hammer so bad it makes sound like all the pipes are gonna come loose. Exited to try it out tomorrow hopefully can fix it
We have hammer arrestors at the faucet side of our 4 year old front loading good quality washer, not at the washing machine ports as in your video. Have you solved the issue by putting in two sets of arrestors at the faucet and rear of washing machine? Do you believe by backing off the 1/4" turn valve and reducing intake flow might help? I've bled the system to the house by opening all faucets and no water shoots out in bursts. The issue occurs in both Cold and Hot Water and we are on a septic/well. The PSI at the lowest spigot is roughly 68 PSI which is necessary to run a Pressure Washer as it requires 3.5 GPS we get roughly 6 +/- GPM total. Plus 68 PSI is a good overall pressure to my knowledge. I can't say for sure but I believe the issue began after we had a plumber install a Whole House water filtration system as he had to re-run Pex but again this may be irrelevant. Good point about the abrupt action of the solenoid opening and closing. I do like the idea about disconnecting the connections at the washer and bleeding the lines just briefly however I wonder if this is a waste of time since I bled all faucets and toilets recently after a plumber replaced a tankless system. Thank you.
wait, you have HOT water going in your wasahing machine ??? how does it control the temperature if you wash coloured or white clothes ? with a mixing valve ...or ?
I'm not sure the Oatey ones are ideal for my situation, because the W&D are in a relatively narrow hall/utility going to the garage. Every inch counts for getting the machines as close to the wall as possible. The Oateys may compromise that; are there versions with shorter extensions?
Someone in the reviews on the home depot website who bought these did just that, connected two together on each side. I couldn't see, in the picture, exactly how they did that but I'm sure they can just be plumbed together?!
I had the water hammer arresters installed on my washing machine a few months ago. The banging noise in my wall stopped as well as the banging noise in my washing machine, however, the banging noise has now started again. Any suggestions? Thanks!
My machine is evil and compensates for whatever adjustments I make. The machine creates a water hammer after about 3 cycles. I put water hammer arrestors on both sides of the washing machine hoses. I closed the valves to nearly off. We drained all the water out of the home pipes and then refilled the house. We tried the inline water hammer arrestor. Nothing stops it. My LG can work around the fixes and start banging the pipes again. I regret buying it.
I have LG machine too , great machine but even with these arrestors the pipes go bang bang ‼️ I’m going to see if opening taps only a quarter turn helps ☝️
There shouldn't be any noticeable difference by connecting it either way. It's just industry standard to install an arrestor as close to the source of the water hammer as possible. In the case of a washing machine it's the solenoid valves within the washer. That's why I personally install them at the washer if practical. That being said there's only a couple of feet of hose between the isolation valves and the washing machine connections, which shouldn't make a difference. Thanks for the question!
I had terrible banging pipes for months, it turned out to be nothing more than the toilet cistern not filling correctly. A plumber put in a new valve, sorted.
My wife said our pipes were making a noise for about a month while she’s washing clothes and I finally heard it today when I was in the shower. I’m going to see if I can find some hammer arrestors .
Hi Becky, Most water hammer arrestors use a rubber or neoprene bladder to separate the water from the air cushion. This air cushion is what absorbs the water hammer. If the bladder is ruptured the arrestor will fill with water and the air cushion will be lost, causing the water hammer to return. It sounds like you'll need to replace the water hammer arrestors. You can test which arrestor has failed by just running a cold only cycle then a hot only cycle and listening for which side causes the water hammer. I would recommend replacing both though, as once one fails the other is soon to follow. The life span varies greatly depending on factors like water pressure, water quality, usage, and quality of the valve. Thanks for the question! All the Best!
@@PROSDIYfor $36 each they only last two years ? Yikes what a terrible design . I saw hydraulic arrestors that cost over $150 each are They any better ?
Should I connect the arrestor female end to the washing machine or the water outlet? Or either? You are connecting to machine, but I saw others connect to outlet.
What a great idea. I have terrible water hammer while the water is changing from hot to cold during my washing machine use. I will be looking for these. Or I can possibly ask my plumber. Thank you. I think I can benefit from these. And my dishwasher as well.
Sounds like water hammer to me. Most of these touchless or automatic toilets open and close the water supply with a fast acting solenoid valve, causing water hammer. A toilet water hammer arrestrr should do the trick: amzn.to/2EJK9R5
I've used the 2 sets of arrestors. 1 set behind the washer at the hose connection 1 set at at the other end of the hoses at the faucet connection, nothing. Plumber installed water pressure reduction valve and expansion tank at service line. $830. Pressure at 50, nothing. Tried pressure at redicously low 30, nothing. Banging as loud as ever. Now what?
That is extremely unfortunate and frustrating. Does the water hammer only occur with the washing machine, cold only, hot only, or both? You took all the proper steps that I'd take. Once I hear back from the questions I'll have a better idea. I'm leaning towards an issue with the washing machine because you went above and beyond to prevent against water hammer. Possibly a faulty solenoid valve, or debris in the solenoid valve. I've personally always have had an immediate fix to water hammer if a expansion tank was installed at the service line, as you've done. Try running this test. Hopefully you have 1/4 turn shut offs, because this test will work better. Turn off the water to the washing machine. Disconnect the hoses at the washing machine side. Test each side hot/cold separately. Run the hose into a bucket. Open the valve wide open and close as fast as possible. See if the water hammer occurs. If it doesn't, the issue is most likely with the washing machine. Let me know what you find out. Thanks for the question and good luck!
Can someone answer regarding this. My Water arrester didnt fit at the back of my Maytag, instead i install to wall waterline horizontally because of the space is it okay or need to be vertically ???please help
I installed mine on the wall waterline outlets horizontally and they work perfectly. The waterlines don't even vibrate at all when my washer shuts the solenoid valve. Oatey actually recommend installing the arrestor at the wall outlet. Hope this helps.
Does the manufacturer recommend that the arrest or be installed in a vertical position? The plumber installed mine at an angle, don’t know if it makes a difference. I see Shark Bite arrestors installed horizontal as well. In a recessed wall box vertical is the best way.
Added arrestors about a year ago. Recently had floor replaced. Had to move washer. Now noticing hammering again. Is this because the hoses were disconnected? And if so does that mean the arrestors are toast or can I purge them somehow to make them work again? Thank you for a great video.
Thanks for the question. The newer model water hammer arrestors as shown in the video use a rubber or neoprene bladder to separate the water from the air cushion, and can't be purged. Shutting off the water to the washer and removing the hose takes the pressure off the neoprene bladder. When repressurizing sometimes the force of the water reentering the water hammer arrestor can damage the bladder, causing the water hammer to occur. This would be my best guess on what happened and would require replacements. Before replacing the water hammer arrestors I would try a few tests first. 1) When the washer is filling on a warm cycle, so that both the hot and cold are being used, lift the hoses in the back up as high as they will go. This can remove an airlock if one is present. 2) Run a cold only cycle followed by a hot only cycle. Listen to see if the water hammer occurs on one or the other, or both. If it happens on only one, switch the arrestors and try the same test again. This will confirm which arrestor may be at fault. Best of luck!
I don't have the extra space to set my washer that far from the wall. Is there another option that doesn't require such a long horizontal extension? Won't be able to open the back door to garage of I have to move the washer forward to accommodate.
Are the shut off valves right behind the washing machine or off to the side? If they are off to the side the water hammer arrestors can be installed on the shut offs and not on the back of the washing machine and still function properly. If the shut offs are directly behind the washing machine and that option doesn't work, you could install the water hammer arrestors inline with the use of a male x male garden hose coupling and a short washing machine hose. A male x female washing machine hose would work as well. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks! ⬇️Amazon Links⬇️ Male x Female Washing Machine Hose geni.us/Re09 Male X Male Hose Coupling geni.us/XFuRgWF 12" Washing Machine Hose geni.us/kC5H0 With the use of the options listed above the water hammer arrestor would hang behind the washing machine and still function properly.
I don't know what pressure works on you country but here in my country I never isue those problems and I never see one of those hammer installed on any plumb system. I see another video where explain why to use those hammers but as I said, never see a leak or another problem I'd not used it.
Interesting. You're right that higher water pressures can effect water hammer. When I lived in Edmonton, Alberta our supplied water pressure was around 70 PSI which caused water hammer on our washing machine. Where I live now, I have a supplied water pressure of 50 PSI and have no water hammer and no need for water hammer arrestors.
Interesting. Could be a couple of things. 1. Too much pressure. Are you on city pressure or well? Some city zones have pressure reducing valves installed in the residences because the supply pressure is over 80 psi. If these valves fail it can cause rattling piping and prematurely worn out fixtures. Residential homes shouldn't exceed 80 psi and most are around 50 psi. 2. Faulty shower or faucet cartridge or toilet fill valve. Try running different fixtures and isolating one at a time to see if the sound changes or stops. 3. Piping that is deadheading. Water should flow through a Tee from the run to the branch(the tee part). If the water is flowing in the direction from the branch to the run it can cause unwanted noise. 4. Piping that isn't secured properly. Water lines should be well supported. Hopefully this gets you in the right direction. Good luck, and let me know how it goes. Thanks!
