New build houses around here have ionisation smoke detectors right next to the kitchen causing false alarms when cooking. Here's an easy way to resolve the problem.
As a technician, I can indeed inform you that if you have the wrong type of alarm installed, then it will sound off when you cook your dinner. Let me know where I'm losing you Mel.
@@dsesuk so to just change the unit is NOT fixing when your tap won't stop dripping you can change the o ring you don't have to change the tap, get my drift. but from your answer there is no fix except get a new one
@@geezer4444 The crux of the issue here isn't "my tap has developed a fault", it's more along the lines of "my builder is a cheap prick who installed a smoke alarm that was inappropriate for the layout of my abode because it cost less for them to do it that way even if they knew it would cause me nuisance as I go about my day". The fix, if you have something inappropriate for the situation, is often to replace it with something more suitable I'm afraid.
Fitted 8 to my other halves semi detached bunglow during a loft upgrade, sold at screwfix about 6 years ago, (not aico), 10 year life, 5 year guarantee, near five years would go off randomly at midnight, 2,4 in the mornings, just random times, never got to the bottom o of it, fitted so many due to idiot cadle burners ( my pet hate, just not worth the risk) even with no candles being burnt they would go out, binned 5 seems to have settled down until I get the Aicos fitted, spoke to technical, still never got to the bottom of it.
Sick of these things going off. I wanna fry a steak it goes off, I wanns bake a pizza it goes off, I wanna make some toast it goes off. I wanna make a stew it goes off. The stress that these things cause will kill me quicker than a fire will. As a smoker I make sure things are out completely. Let people cook their food in peace. There is such a thing as an alarm that is too sensitive.
You have a useless ionization type alarm which is only good for annoying people, throw it away and get an optical or even better multisensor type from a good brand like aico, i use the ei2110e and never had one false alarm.
Mine does the same but with the addition of going off from taking a shower. It's right outside the bathroom in the hall way. I have to wait before I open the bathroom door cause they'll all go off. Super annoying!
Thanks David; dead useful to a L2 apprentice as I fitted a set of these on 3C&E in a new build. As noted elsewhere, sorry Donna didn't see the point ;)
We have one in our dining room, right next to our kitchen (in an apartment) and i was making toast and it went off...in a toaster. No smoke at all... also went off while boiling a potato... midnight, 4am 6am 6pm literally allllll day no matter when I’m making, drives me nuts
Well that is what has been happening in our "new build" ( 7 years old now ) just making toast and the alarm keeps going off. Luckily ours is not jammed in with the lights so it can be switched off. Which is what I would do as I grew up in the 70's when most people had common sense. Cheers David great video and informative as usually, thank you.
I say new build houses are to grade D LD3 for minimum protection, of course I should have said LD2 as the inclusion of a heat alarm in the kitchen or any other 'higher risk' area is mandatory for new builds.
Brilliant thank you - in desperation I squirted in expanding foam which did the trick but I would probably sleep better at night if I changed it for the right kind.
My kitchen has two, one of each type. The ionisation alarm is mounted in the ceiling which is about 15 feet above floor level. It goes off for any normal cooking which is not just boiling water. Too high for me to reach and change so a button on the end of the sky-light pole has to be deployed. Don't know what I will do when the battery needs replacing.
They should come with a remote that you ca use to silence it. When people climb to chairs to silence them that can cause accidents. An optical alarm will beep if you burn your food. Also if you an silence them remotely you are less likely to just yank the thing down.
Hi David Please can you tell me can i add a optical alarm to the kids bedroom that is linked to the others in the house ? Do i just run a 3 core from existing
Hi David, I know this was a while back, but i found the video helpful. I have both a heat alarm and ionised alarm right above the oven and hobs and its a nightmare. Would you recommend replacing both with the optic alarms?
Hi Ralph. I wouldn't change out the heat alarm, but if the ionisation alarm is giving you a headache when you're cooking, then switching it to an optical model should help to reduce the problem. If it's poorly placed however, then the problem may not be entirely eliminated. For the cost, it may be worth a try rather than pulling the thing off the ceiling entirely!
I've just had an electrician fit these in my house...they are brand new...one heat in the kitchen and two optical in hall and landing. The one in the hall keeps going off intermittently and setting off the others. Is it a faulty unit as I can't get the electrician back to sort it as he said they are brand new !
Forget the ionisation alarms, an LD3 system ( Life preservation , Domestic, category 3 basic protection ) is typically two smoke detectors in the circulation space, one in the downstairs hallway, one above the upstairs landing, mains wired with battery backup and interlinked so that if one sounds, the other does as well.
Ours broke a few years ago and wouldn’t stop chirping, the mechanism to release was also jammed so I had to punch it off, i wouldn’t recommend it tbh but i have very sharp hearing and it drove me mad, I now have a large scar on my knuckle as the plastic is quite thick and sharp when it shatters. We did replace it though lol always better safe than sorry with these but drastic times call for violent actions... or something like that.
Hi I have the optical one in my hallway and it always goes off when I'm cooking:( It now needs replacing so I have purchased a new one but I also want to replace the back plate as it's not as white any more. Do you have a video on disconnecting the back plate and reconnecting a new one?
Sorry to hear of the bother Amanda. I've no video on replacing the back-plate I'm afraid. It'll be secured with one or more screws into the ceiling, and there may be one or two cables feeding the thing. One might be a two-core cable providing a supply line and neutral (red/black or brown/blue in the UK plus a protective core in a green/yellow sheath), while the other would be a three-core cable going to the next smoke alarm with red/yellow/blue or brown/black/grey cores plus the protective conductor. With the three-core cable, the red or brown would be line, and neutral should be blue or grey, but the installer may have used the yellow or black cores. The third colour would be the interconnect to the next smoke alarm. It's important not to miswire the thing or your smoke alarms would be the ones doing the smoking. If the alarm you're changing is at the end of the chain, then there may be just the one cable feeding it. You also need to be aware that there are two kinds of base; the standard one and a radio base for installations where running cables isn't practical. A radio base would just have a supply cable, no three-core. All in all, it's a quick and easy job for a sparkie, but it can be a bit hairy if you don't know your wiring colours. You could cut the power, flip off the cable cover and take careful note of which wire goes into what terminal, but only undertake such work if you're comfortable with it and are confident to take it on. I can't speak for you of course, and I would always recommend you engage the services of a professional, but then I would say that!
Never easy to slide the lower section off at 2am in the morning when the beep is going off! Does the low battery beep stop beeping after 20 mins you say? Thanks....
I have a Kidde smoke detector, and that thing goes off the second I put something in the oven. It's enough to drive a person crazy. I've never even heard of one that was so sensitive. Funny thing is, it's right next to the bathroom and the steam has never set it off.
Can you help please? Our mains connected alarm - don't know the brand - keeps going off in the middle of the night. This is the third night and tonight it's happened 4 times in the last 40 minutes. We've changed the batteries but it hasn't helped.
I have an optic in my New apt. And the damn thing goes off when i cook anything in the oven that “smokes” LIKE a roast chicken. It went off twice right now...
Aico only recommend Optical alarms for hall and landings. I only fit the alarms with lithium cells that don't have to be changed as I usually find customers rip the damn things off the ceiling if they have to replace batteries.
I tried to replace the battery on one of these things and I pushed the screwdriver too hard and it flung off into a mop bucket. So yes, we do in face fuck up trying to replace the battery
I have a Stuart Milne house and the and the slightest over cooking of toast causes the alarm system to trigger......in the mornings you can hear a cocophony of smoke alarms going off around the neighbourhood, very funny, I guess the optical alarm was a few pence more :(
I like Aico smoke alarms, but no way would I fit an ionisation one, optical are much better . I work as a fire alarm engineer and ionisation alarms are just a no no these days, optical and heat alarms are all I fit , with some combined with CO if there is an open flame heat source such as a log burner present. The latest Aico alarms have a built in non changeable lithium battery rather than a 9 volt replacable
Hi Dawid.. Just a question . Electrician installed a new Ei 141RC. and the red light is flashing. He said us faulty , I went to shop and changed it again and still flashing. I just watched your video , after 20 min red should disappear?. Is that correct. Many Thanks for your help.
So ...did I miss something? Did he ever say how to stop the smoke alarm or turn it off after the alarm went off? Or is the solution to just get another smoke detector?
Hi David need some info mate, Friend of mine trying to sell his house and they said his smoke alarms need to be linked, currently wired on the same circuit live neutral and earth no way of getting a interlink wire between them, what wired smoke alarms are best that can talk to each other wireless ly thanks
@@dsesuk thanks David, they flagged a few problem one was the consumer unit so I changed that other was cooker hood needed venting to out side so did that, now when he came its the smokes, Will get there eventually, thanks for the advise buddy, loved the new video watched it all, thought you handled the situation great, I've had some crazy customers being from Birmingham way but that was unreal, you was lucky to leave there alive she was a big un lol 😆 😀
5 лет назад
There’s nuisance trips with the optical ones as well. I have one in a hallway thats just outside the bathroom door and i’ve had the thing trigger just from me opening the bathroom door after a shower and the steam hitting it causes it to get squawking as well. Or, as was much more annoying, vaping in the adjacent room and having the vapor from that come near it as well. I have an ionising one in the kitchen and with the fume hood on while cooking, its fine. Without it, however, screeching and a mad scramble to push the button...
5 лет назад
@Cupid Stunt they have the hush buttons, its just annoying when i forget about it and have to stretch up to it to shut it up.
Well i mean I guess it all depends where you're from and I speak with no accent but anyway those alarms are more safe because of the 240 instead of 120 over here but your federal government didn't make a struck pulseating law like we did in 1999 for a code 3 instead of a continus or a rapid beeping some that ive seen have been a rapid beeping and some ive seen are code 3. Also ive noticed that the mounting bracket Typicaly has a hole where you insert a screwdriver and then is able to remove it while here in America we are able to just twist the smoke alarm off ... Lots of differences
I appreciate safety But there a menace. In the old days all you had to do was take the battery out. The manufacturers who still have not got it sorted have now made it so you cant do that or undo it I'm getting very tempted to just smash the dam things up Complete piles of crap
Find out more at: www.SmokeAlarmWarning.org Australian legislation (Queensland and the Northern Territory) and legislation in Zealand and some U.S. States mandates the use of photoelectric smoke alarms. Many authorities advise photoelectric alarms are "better" but for legal and political reasons are not allowed to warn that there is anything wrong with ionization alarms. However, in 2016 Australia's most senior fire official representing all fire brigades across Australia and New Zealand went public warning that "ionization smoke alarms should be banned". See his warning on Australian TV and discover for yourself why ionization smoke alarms should be banned: www.SmokeAlarmWarning.org
Interlinked alarms are the bane of my tenant life. When a particular alarm goes off there neeeds to be a delay before the other alams are triggered because 99.99999% of the time it's a nuissance alarm caused by cooking and the whole goddamn building doesn't need to know about it.
Sadly he left of his own accord to move on to greater things and now plays for Port Vale in Division 2! Fancy giving up a career in the trades to punt a ball around!
That was back in the days when I made videos I figured only my neighbours and direct customers may find useful. After all, it's not like anyone would be interested in watching an electrician talking about the job!
@@dsesuk oh contrare as an old electronics enthusiast I had a friend whose dad was a commercial sparky (fr Mayfield- now no longer) and I was always fascinated by his stories
