The notch is there to allow the stabilizer straps to be used on the older tractors. It is supposed to be applied to the left side with the notch on the top side
Well, the extra notch and hole are more likely to be so the bracket fits on different 3pt arms. The operations to remove those two little chunks of metal cost more than the value of the metal saved.
The piece looks like it was stamped to me, so in order to include the extra notches all that's required is the die to be made that way, requiring no extra processes to the manufacturing. Now if it was me making them in my shop, that would be a different story! Lol
The notch is to clear the stay bars that should be fitted to the 3rd point of the linkage when using a drawbar. The arms are not designed for pulling heavy loads, the 3rd point is.
I went to tractor supply for the same problem, my trailer came off the hitch, the clerk had no clue this part existed and I tried to do same with various HW, Thanks much appreciated when I saw this video, returned the various HW and the right part for the job.
Good Videos. I just started watching about a week and a half ago and i can't stop watching them. You put some good content out there to watch. I have a farm in eastern NE and we farm about 3'000 acres. We also raise about 3'000 head of cattle and about 2'000 hogs. We farm hay, corn, and beans with a field or two of oats each year. Well, great videos and hope you keep them coming.
Those holes are for different 3pts. ie that square cutout is for the adjusters that control how far/close the arm is on some 3pts (Kubota comes to mind).
Jacob that’s a great idea I’m going to check in to that moving trailers around that will really help thanks Jacob great video stay dry been raining a lot here Ohio river beginning to rise from Kentucky
When I got my tractor, I went to the trouble of using two pieces of 2x5/16 angle to make an A-frame that goes to either end of my drawbar and hooks to the top link. I kinda wish I'd seen one of these first.
grat film in the UK . we use the try point linkage & the stabilize. The bar's they slides up and down like that but pin in to the hols of the cross bear, go on the centre link with a spacer in the middle & that holds you see has a pin some have two berending on the load welded to gather with a short bit of bar. that when connoted hold the harms in place at different heights imagine the two bar with a open hitch & pin on the bar & one at the top With tow in the medal one having several hols the other two, for the pins held together on a short welded together to line up with the holes. once fitted we would remove the pins & lower or raise the sliding harms pick up the load & lift to required high the replays the pins so it would hold at that Hight put in the spring clips you can Mack the your self i did we ues the black smith . Or local fab shop . that siystom is fool proof.
Hi , Jacob . I was reflecting on your Last Video, on the Doom and Gloom in Farming at the moment. Farmers have very little control over the price they receive for thier crops or their Animals.So thier only choice is to drive costs down as low as possible . And hope that returns cover thier costs which some years clearly they Won't. Using Wheat as an example in 2006 I sold wheat for £60 per ton which results in a loss no matter how you play with the figures. Yet in 2012/2013 I sold wheat for an all time high of £201 with an average wheat yield of 4tons to the acre this results in a good size profit. But and hears the catch despite what the experts tell you . There is NO WAY of planning this . Other than survive the bad times to still be thir in the Good. Regards David
I actually built a few of the 3 point trailer tow bars, made it have a normal 2” trailer hitch receiver so i can hook it to anything to it. And on the arm that goes to the top link i welded a ball hitch on it so i can jockey around gooseneck trailers
Boehm Farm ahhhhh I have a small blue and raspberry farm only 30 acres, I don’t have any drawbar implements that hook to a pto only a brush hog and i just use the tractors drawbar for that because the pto shaft wouldn’t reach. Love the videos man
Dumb question (I know, but I really need this explained): Why on cross drawbars and front receiver hitches on cars and trucks do I see the trailer ball intentionally off set to one side or the other and not in the middle?? Thank you.
If you would replace the standard nut on the bolt to a self locking nut, it would keep you from losing the nut and bolt because of vibration or bouncing.
Now that's cool. But I do have the tool that uses the top link to move our gooseneck trailer, it also has a place to pull a wagon or trailer such as that one. Did you get it from tractor supply?? Rural King?
That flat stock with them holds is used on semi mounted plow ( JD 145) don't remember if they all used that setup . You give me idea on improving what TSC sells so when I hit it big will will split profits with you don't hold your breath, I also sell oxygen equipment Lol
I am wondering if you have ever pulled a baler with the 3pt draw bar? I would like to get the tractor further away from the windrow but not sure if the 3pt drawbar is the right way to accomplish this.
Yeah driveshaft geometry is your biggest limiting factor-- the PTO shaft should be as straight and level as possible when baling most of the time (except in turns of course) to minimize driveshaft and U-joint wear and prolong its life... If you have a swinging drawbar on the tractor, you can swing it all the way to the right to move your baler over, or even just a couple holes not quite all the way. Still gonna put the PTO shaft running at an angle all the time which is harder on U-joints and can chatter due to unequal angles with the tractor end yoke being a tighter angle in turns (a lot of balers had a short front shaft centered over the tongue so that when the baler turned the U-joints on either end split the angle in half evenly between them, minimizing U-joint chatter. The other issue is, you have to be careful moving the tongue over that when you turn that nothing hits, like 3 point arms or the tires on the baler tongue... I used swing the drawbar over when raking and it moved the tire closer to the rake and in a RH turn it was too easy to stuff a tractor tire into the frame of the rake, so I put it back and just ran over some of the hay... Better that than having "collision problems" in turns. Later! OL J R :)
@@michaelenglish904 I have a 2000 year model Kubota L2600DT (4wd) with 26.9hp and only 300 original hours in 22 years. It has a Bush Hog 2245QT front loader and I really like it.
We tried that but our tractor has the stabilizer bars on the inside to keep the lower link arms from jamming into the tires and it interferes with the stabilizers
Get some angle iron to "sandwich" over/under the bar and a stack of washers or oversize old nuts to slide between them and the bar, and a bolt long enough to bolt it all together... the angle irons go over and under the draft arm to keep the drawbar they're bolted to from rolling either way... Just need a couple three feet of angle iron and torch or drill a couple holes in them, and of course the bolt and stack of washers or scrap bigger nuts... OL J R :)
Can you use draw bar w/ out this device- I know it can rotate but what I mean is once trailer is down on draw bar doesn't tougue weight keep it in place?
No, if the ball was a perfect fit, you could go without it, but the ball is too small for most of our trailers, and I'm just using it to move trailers around the barnyard and don't feel like getting on and off the tractor to latch the hitch every time just to have to undo it in five minutes.
Technically if the ball is "locked" into the hitch, theoretically yes, BUT the ball will rotate until it's in a bind and that's very hard on the points of contact between the ball shank and the hitch socket edge... OL J R :)
Jacob I just watched your excellent post on your thoughts of the state of farming and what do you do, you go out and buy a new piece of equipment? Well It is probably more cost effective in this case, but, not you got the mold, ha ha ha,( evil laugh).
Yeah that's why ALL tractors have it now LOL:) Seriously, for moving trailers and using the lower links for drawbar work the 2 point spear hitch is good... for everything else, NOT SO MUCH... OL J R :)
@@lukestrawwalker The reason the fast hitch isn't popular now is because the 3 point came out first and john deere wanted to buy it off of international at the time but refused. I have a fast hitch 3 bottom plow and a fast hitch sickle bar mower for my farmall 450. I never had any problems connecting or disconnecting the implements and was far faster due to even having to get off the tractor except to hook up the pto or hydraulics .as for the 3 point it can be a huge pain most of the time.
@@henryofskalitz2228 but implements outfitted with it couldn't be used on any other tractor, and no regular 3 point implement could be used on a two point... Plus holding a good angle adjustment like on a plow was very difficult... Sure they had an adjuster but with no top link to brace against, holding the plow at the proper angle in tough conditions was a mess. For all those reasons it went away, like the eagle hitch, snap hitch, etc
@@lukestrawwalker The IH manufacturer had actually made a 2 point to 3 point adapter and it works fairly well. it has a quick hitch type 2 point so you just back up to the implement and raise the 2 point. then you attach the top link and there was minor adjustment able to be made on it. so you can still use 3 point implements on a fast hitch. also the fast hitch Had draft control. on the implement like the plow itself it has adjustments for the right angle on the plow like the moldboard depth wheel, then for the angle for plowing is on the fast hitch so you can have to tilted left or right.
Here's another trick that might help ya out with trailer pin problems... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E14_OdmKfPs.html Later! OL J R :)
