Story of Failure - Should I Have Continued or Not? | Adam Ondra

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Recently, I tried to onsight a 9a route in Montanejos, Spain. My try was going really well, I was just underneath the crux, using a marginal kneebar for resting and checking the crux moves above me. Just before I was ready to set off, I broke the edge of the tiny tufa where my knee was, which sent my feet into the air. I was still holding on with my hands, I did not fall off. However, my foot got slightly tangled into the rope, which stopped the swing of my body ☝ I am sure I would never fall off in this situation if I did not have the rope, yet I would have to deal with more of the swing, which would be a little more tiring. It was not a mistake of the belayer as he had enough slack in the system, just the rope drag through approximately 6 carabiners was enough for a bit of help. I am pretty sure that if this happened in a competition (in that case I would probably not break the hold, but let's say it would be a foot slip), the judges would let me continue climbing and it would be no issue ✌
Should I have continued or not? Read the full article about this failure and climbing ethics ➡️ www.mammut.com/int/en/stories... and watch the full video here ➡️ • This Video Features Ev... .
And let me know your opinion in the comments ✊
Story of failure by
Adam Ondra
Mammut
Directed and edited by
Jan Vogl
Camera
Jan Vogl
Production
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína
Kateřina Kuřátková
© Adam Ondra 2024
#climbing #spain #rockclimbing #mammut
‪@mammut‬

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Опубликовано:

9 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 95

@normanquednau 12 дней назад

"Mierda!!" That came from deep

@AdamOndra 11 дней назад

100%

@robynlea6950 9 дней назад

That's what I thought 💩!

@tbzr88 12 дней назад

It doesn't look like the rope "helped" you in any way, but I liked what you said in the full video, that it wouldn't feel okay for yourself anymore and I think that's the most important thing. If you know it wouldn't feel like an onsight anymore, there's no point in continuing.

@leoingson 11 дней назад

Perfect summary!

@zivotvkrosne2132 12 дней назад

It's kinda tricky to say yes or no, but you made the right choice on your own.

@natebracalente2754 12 дней назад

Yea you can see a small chunk of rock broke off right where he had his left knee for the knee bar. Tough luck, you were looking solid Adam!

@TheSnowboardfan 11 дней назад

I wouldn't call this small, but rather normal sized 😅

@szabolcskiraly6323 12 дней назад

Heart says yes, head says no. You made the correct decision after all. Keep on sending Adam, you're a huge influence and role model for a lot of climbers. 😊

@danielwesterlund1905 12 дней назад

I think he did the right thing by not continuing. Not only does the rope cushion the slip, the weight also created tension in the rope that helped hold him up by his harness. Onsighting is a pretty purist approach to climbing, no sense in diluting it for personal convenience. I'm sure Adam values those successful onsights for that very reason.

@justingabriele3881 10 дней назад

In that situation, I personally wouldn’t continue. You see, I climb 7b so I I would never be able to climb this route in the first place

@user-kn5tk1zs4t 2 дня назад

Yes man ⚡

@Seven-cf1jp 12 дней назад

Come on Adam you can do it we all believe in you 💪💪

@jankra 12 дней назад

Made the right choice!

@robynlea6950 9 дней назад

Love the music 🎶🎶🎶 Adam!

@alexisbenard19 10 дней назад

Let's go Adam ! ❤

@fajastata2 11 дней назад

Why not just continue for your own sake and then not calling it an official onsight even if you succeeded?

@TheCadocas 5 дней назад

Save energy for a redpoint

@TheOnlyWayUp-iv8gr 12 дней назад

Yes

@freelancecore1576 11 дней назад

Right to stop. Respect!

@seanziethen1032 8 дней назад

I know how frustrating this can feel but I like to remind myself that no matter how bad I might perform: every time I go for climbing is good

@denisdevecchi2904 12 дней назад

Yep

@Sashao99 4 дня назад

Climbing is not a religion, nor should it become one. Above all, it's about enjoying nature in contact with the rock and remembering that the planet offers us beautiful environments that must be respected if we are to continue to enjoy them.

@jorrr9096 11 дней назад

Ease down on the reaction a bit, jeez. No one is dying. And on climbing ethics: these are so controversial in climbing, I wouldnt care. Yes you can onsight, but it doesnt matter if all the quickdraws are in place? Or just skipping them? Whoever came up with these rules

@Rickshaw_Bohammer 3 дня назад

I love Adam but his reactions both positive and negative have me cringing hardcore

@glp7181 11 дней назад

I’d say go on until you let go of the right arm then its over, but as long as your right arm is supporting you keep going

@JoBianco 12 дней назад

Personally I think he could have continued, but the trolls would destroy him.

@papalegba6796 12 дней назад

Not trolls

@JoBianco 12 дней назад

@@papalegba6796 lol

@AdamOndra 9 дней назад

Thanks, the problem is that these things are sometimes really hard to notice from the video, and only a climber and belayer really knows how much weight you had in the rope.

@JoBianco 9 дней назад

@@AdamOndra Exactly. How much of your weight was on your hand? All, none, or some?

@RoamingBiologist 8 дней назад

If there was decent slack in the rope and a hard pull on the right arm to stop the fall, then yes. Adam keeps it 100% even when the rock tells him not today.

@AlexeiDrummond 7 дней назад

You need to be at peace with yourself. Once I drove home after a send and then noticed in the video I had maybe stood on a bolt in the easy top part of the climb. I immediately asked my partner if we could drive out to the crag so I could climb the route again. It was extremely windy early evening. Everybody had left the crag. But I sent it again, how I wanted to :)

@007boxlunch 12 дней назад

That sucks, looks like a foot hold broke? On the question of climbing ethics, I think no one is entitled ^^

@danielwesterlund1905 12 дней назад

No, just a foot slip.

@zivotvkrosne1962 12 дней назад

@@danielwesterlund1905 There is a broken hold at 00:15.

@Jerkal 12 дней назад

looks like a bit from the knee bar broke.

@danielwesterlund1905 12 дней назад

@@Jerkal Oh yeah, I was looking at the foot and didn't see that it broke by the knee.

@Sean_Climbs 11 дней назад

I don’t think anyone should question ondras ethics. Even if he felt he could have continued he knew the hate he would get for it.

@mainr7142 День назад

Personally I wouldve carried on.. I would've been happy with the ascent at all, regardless of the dab. I wouldn't see it as quite as pure an ascent as without the dab, but I'd still be happy with the send. I mean probably I wouldve held the swing with or without the dab (if I were as strong as adam lol) so I still wouldve counted it personally. Maybe I would come back another time to do a purer send. (Realistically not lol)

@lukasskymuh5910 День назад

He might continue but it will not count and he has to start from the bottom again. The flash is clearly lost.

@MDarkus3 6 дней назад

The rock just broke

@lucaa4480 12 дней назад

If you want to be that ethical you should also not consider onsight when you are climbing a route with chalk on the holds...

@JS-tb9hu 11 дней назад

Ooh interesting point

@christianpilt9050 11 дней назад

Doesnt chalked holds make it harder and that is why people brush chalk?

@simsim4910 11 дней назад

@@christianpilt9050It's more about the chalk signaling where the holds are. But idk if that really counts against an onsight

@petrhermanadventures9509 11 дней назад

How many routes are there that have no chalk on the holds? The Steep stuff Ondra climbs doeasn't even see rain..

@lucaa4480 11 дней назад

@@petrhermanadventures9509 a lot, i mean in a lot of famous crags like ceuse,margalef, oliana ecc if it rains a lot the harder routes will be wet. But also in really overhangs route if it rains a lot the water is likely to filter in rocks and the holds and chalk will go away... Also to me is good practice to clean the holds that never get touched by rain with water, so they don't become too polished.

@JaxCavalera 9 дней назад

I'm the same way.. a bit taller than avg and so many gyms have climbs where it's either a dyno first move or at least a mini cave situation and my toes scrape the carpet every now and then just because lankey.. I'm like FUCCCCCKKK every time and restart it's just so stupid but once you touch you can't ignore it anyway

@jacobwyman3430 7 дней назад

Just keep sending.

@fynnlockwood9690 9 дней назад

Personally I would have stayed on to check out both but would have had to restart icl

@dreamtasterfpv2216 8 дней назад

Dontunderstand why he did not continue

@marcosdelcocuy 11 дней назад

If he feels he should, so he should. If he feels he don't, he don't. Personal choice

@88denji 11 дней назад

It's a dab, so good call to stop. Furthermore I think you gained more reputation with stopping than you would have with the send ;-)

@ebra9902 12 дней назад

I think climbers could benefit from being a little more easy going.

@homemsapo 12 дней назад

If he broke the hold Which is crucial I think It Would make Sense to continue,as a Future try Would be virtually Impossible ir simply not worth the time... But thats only a point of view from someone who is frustrated because a big jug broke of in his V4 project😂

@AdamOndra 9 дней назад

It was a hold breaking, but it was just a tiny edge of a kneebar, the route hasn't really changed at all.

@bz3881 8 дней назад

Rock break by left knee - blood on rock - "mierda" into one hand catch. If you sent after that, may not have been clean, but it would have been epic. Should have kept going. Sicker than a clean send imo.

@Radian-Absolute 12 дней назад

It’s a dab no redpoint.

@jonanderson5137 10 дней назад

Too much thought is in this. You're climbing WITH rope. Climb. What's next, a timer on how fast you choose YOUR route? "He took 10 seconds of rest and should have chose under 6 seconds"? Silly. Ethics isn't a thing unless you're actively competing with clear rules.

@Sahil99413 11 дней назад

seemed like you hung on with your arm

@YuniorBarbanOficial 12 дней назад

Nop, sad but it's like this, a small slip may cost the best try ever, the beauty of climbing!❤

@AdamOndra 11 дней назад

Absolutely.

@danwallis1984 11 дней назад

Wasnt really a small slip, the rock broke on the knee bar.

@blubblubwhat 11 дней назад

Haha @@danwallis1984

@YuniorBarbanOficial 10 дней назад

@@danwallis1984 was a shame

@areject17 12 дней назад

I can see ethically where touching the rope in that way would “disqualify” the climb. But it didn’t help you at all. So I would have kept going

@blubblubwhat 11 дней назад

Live streaming and u never have to ask xour moral compass

@AdamOndra 9 дней назад

There is not everything you can see from the video, especially just one angle. Sometimes it is really down to the climber if you were helped by the rope or not.

@TheOnlyWayUp-iv8gr 12 дней назад

Or maybe no

@spenceringram8104 12 дней назад

Hello there i am writing to express my views on the following should adam have continued? what do you think about climbing ethics? is adam ondra gay? what is his sexuality? So as i previously stated i think adam should not actually have continued as is may have affected his health in the near future

@JoBianco 12 дней назад

Is this a bot?

@spenceringram8104 12 дней назад

@@JoBianco nope. i just love to write essays on adam ondra

@JoBianco 12 дней назад

@@spenceringram8104 Lol, very funny

@40kq 12 дней назад

He isn't gay and he's a male don't put your fantasies on others.

@TheOnlyWayUp-iv8gr 12 дней назад

I dunno

@robertnewell4054 12 дней назад

Climbing Ethics in this generation is almost nonexistent.

@papalegba6796 12 дней назад

True, they dgaf

@robertnewell4054 12 дней назад

@@papalegba6796 …. What’s going to happen is local Administration, be it NPS, USFS, BLM (Bureau of Land Management) will limit or totally block access to numerous Climbing Areas. There appears to be no thoughts around preservation of Climbing Access

@AndyBizzzle 12 дней назад

what ethics are non existent when watching this video???

@robertnewell4054 12 дней назад

@@AndyBizzzle…. As AO is SportClimbing here, I don’t believe there is an ethical issue. As Ethics were brought up, my comment is more a generalized statement on the State of Climbing Culture in the 21st Century.

@robertnewell4054 12 дней назад

@@papalegba6796….. I responded back regarding Access & how Administrating Agencies response can & will limit access …. But they deleted it….

@petrhermanadventures9509 11 дней назад

You only get one chance to on sight. The Ethics are kind of arbitrary anyway. If you can onsight a route the it's likely nowhere near your absolute limits, so the whole onsight thing is just for bragging rights. and that's not what climbing should be about.