Cash money video. You finally taught me the difference between a key/cross slot and a rail and saved us from ordering the normal sub model for my wife’s Rose 365XL comp
Thank you! This was exactly my problem, and why the light would not stay connected to rail after five rounds. I knew something was wrong and you nailed it! 👍
Thank you very much for the clear explanation. I’ve been trying to decide between the 7 sub and 7a for my Xmacro non-comp version. I don’t like how the sub version seems to protrude more. I’m liking the looks of the 1913 setup shown in this video. Will be checking out your holsters a s a thanks for the video!
Imagine I knew nothing about rails and lights and I was getting glock 23 gen 5 and p365xl both witb tlr-8ag streamlight and TLR-8 G Sub For SIG P365/XL while also trying to find holsters. Thanks to we the people and also your video I somehow made it work.
Hey man thanks for this video. I ordered the sig light but I am exchanging it for the 1913s now. I knew I did something wrong when the light was loose and not flush to the rail. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Ty for this video. I almost messed up and ordered the sig tlr7sub thinking it was the correct one after switching it in my cart for 1913, now I guess I’ll go put the 1913 version back lol you saved me
Just fyi, I got the TLR-7a flex and with that, my SIG p365 xmacro tacops works PERFECTLY with the universal 2. With the flex, you get the 1913-1 through 1913-4, and universal 1+2. Maybe the tacops is different, but mine uses universal 2.
I've been trying to decide between the Sub and 7A. I don't see a 1913 rail with the 7A though, unless you buy their "key kit" I believe. But everyone on Reddit still recommends the 7A.
There is an option to buy only 1913 rail clamp and modify tlr7 sub? I'm asking, because I bought Sig rail for my P365, fits perfectly, but soon I would like to buy P365 FUSE and there is also propably 1913 rail, like in XMACRO ;/
Noob here. Just installed this exact model on this exact gun. My thumb seems pretty far from the switch of the light. Is it meant to be closer or are you meant to activate with your trigger finger?
The #5 key will give similar placement, but the #5 key is undersized for the X Macro cross slot, so there's more slop and variability in the placement.
No, it doesn't. Sig made the rail position on the AXG Legion lower than on the polymer version, so the light sits in a different position, and will not fit the holster properly. It's frustrating, but very typical of Sig.
What Streamlight # key do you need to mount the 1913 model to the X macro? I have a 1, 3, 4, & 5. Missing 2. The rep said it’s the #4 but there is still some front to back wiggle. What’s everyone else using?
We designed and manufacture our own key specifically for that combo, and it's included, for free, with every Ember holster for the X Macro that we sell.
We don't offer anything compatible with it, and many other holster makers haven't developed molds for it yet either, so I don't have any recommendation for you.
You don't have to order it. It's included for free with every Macro Ember. We don't sell it separately. Not all customers have the full range of keys. It's much easier to give them the exact key they need than hope they have something close already. And ours fills the entire cross slot. The #5 key doesn't. So there's that...
It's a little more compact, which allows us to make the holster slightly narrower. Every little bit helps when it comes to maximizing comfort and concealment.
Just made this mistake and bought the Sig versión for my xmacro. Do they sale the 1913s rails separately? Or am I gonna have to return it and get the right one?
@@HenryHolsters That same day I contacted them, they said they would send me the rail clamps at no charge. Just got them today on the mail (5 days later). Great customer service from @Streamlight
I made this mistake and bought the Sig version. I wish I would have found this video beforehand! Is there a rail key that I can get for the Sig Sub version that will allow it to work on my x macro or am I screwed?
Contact Streamlight CS and ask for the 1913 rail clamps. The light bodies are all the same, and the rail clamps are removable, so all you would need to get in order to convert yours from the "Sig" version to the "1913" version is the 1913 labeled rail clamps.