I imagine the Soaked wood was still wet inside, hence Inner sections were softened... Countering the strength test. Two weeks later may have been very different. Thank you for showing the limitations of the product.
You have made a shear stress test, not a material hardness test. For a hardness test you could drop from the same hight a steel sphere and measure the diameter of the impact mark.
Speaking to a painter who repaired wood around windows that were destroyed by Brown rot fungus this product prevented the further deterioration by fungal spores left in the wood and the wood could not be penetrated by water which causes the fungus to spread solving the problem of fungal rot.😢😊😢
Nice, but not correct. Try the product on what it was intended for. The product is designed fur rotten/pourus wood. I would like to see you do the test trying to compress the wood as well as breaking. You would then be seeing some very interesting differences.
Agreed. I imagine bass wood has some strength. Rotten wood has none. By the way.. Another vid that led me to this one. Bondo wood hardener vs MinWax. Big difference. Even this Does strengthen 2x6 lumber's Dent resistance, used as boat trailer Bunks.
So wondering what happens when you soak the different treated pieces in water or high humidity and see how much water is soaked in each series. Maybe a penetration test?
Fantastic experiment! Looking at using this to strengthen some wood pieces found from old trees for stained sculptures and was curious if it helps. Appears to be minor but may try it anyway thanks to you. Thx!!
Nice methodology. However, there is a difference between hardness and strength. If the hardener prevents the wood fibers from bending like they would naturally, it would stand to reason they would snap when put under lateral stress. Next questions to look into (scientific method, right?) How much did they bend before breaking? How much force is it able to withstand before denting?
Interesting. It might get "weaker" because the plastic inside the wood decreases the natural flexibility of it. Different plastics have different properties too, if it really is just acetone and plastic it would be fun to dissolve other types of plastic and soak wood in. A more rubbery plastic would maybe be stronger in the testing you did.
Does it make trim more dent resistant? If it can make oak and pine harder, then it is worthwhile. The control group should be without hardener but with urethane to duplicate real-world use because you need urethane for the finish in either case.
On any digital measuring equipment it is wise to consider that the measurement uncertainty is at least (+/- 1 least significant digit). Or for that scale, (+/- 0.1 g) The uncertainty is probably more than that, but you would need to have it calibrated to know for sure. I have a similar scale from HF; I use it mostly for counting my smallest pills.
Yes your assumption concurs with my findings. Wood hardener is intended for soft, spongy, porous wood. In dense hardwoods the absorption is poor. The hardener mostly just sits on the surface and doesn't soak in.
If i may answer this ? From my experience only - this is not scientifically proven by any means- But I’m a carpenter, my grandfather had two old rocking chairs. One was solid oak, one was southern pine. Both had rot badly in the balusters on the lean back. The hardener worked faster and took me less passes using a synthetic hair brush during application and absorbed in less time on the oak versus pine. Which sounded crazy being that southern pine is less dense.
@@alasdairmackintosh I like tru oil. I've used it for all kinds of stuff. Knife handles, guitars, small wood boxes, etc. It builds up a nice thick glossy finish fast.
Completely flawed experiment! This stuff is for dry-rot wood. Wood that is fuzzy, deteriorated somewhat, structurally compromised or very weak. I have used this many times for deteriorated exterior fascia and decorative wood features with great success. Try soaking a rag in the stuff, let it dry, and OMG what a difference! Easy to tell what it will do for marginal wood. Apply this to bad fascia or other weathered wood, let it dry, then fill with bondo or epoxy wood filler, then prime. Only way to go. Also flat or satin "brushing lacquer" (minwax) diluted 2:1 with Acetone or lacquer thinner works fantastic! Soaks in and leaves the shellac (lacquer) behind. Totally eliminates the Wood Fiber Fuzzies that cause primer and other materials to not bond at all. Great video but not the right experiment.
This is not a valid experiment, as it does not test the product as it is intended to be used. I think your going to need some help. Have you read the label? reading the label will help you understand what the product is, what applications it can be used for , how to use it and more..so yoi know about how much R&D go into putting a product on the market, then all the different methodologies of quality control, hint, they test thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of samples, These videos do not provide for any valid conclusions regarding using the product as intented. This was better then your first attempt though. I have not used this product but i have used other brand wood hardeners, which in my experience both brands require a 2 or more coat application, and require the use of an additional 2 part epoxy, and then a wood putty, which I then also be prime/ paint and or seal in 2 or more coats of primer, paint or sealant. In my experience not only does this harden and preserve the wood, it also stops the rot/mold/mildew that caused the wood to become soft, from continuing to spread (I also use TSP or hydrogen peroxide/baking soda.) That's how this product works for me. I hope you don't think you can apply this product to any softwood species like balsa or bass, and it will turn them into something more like a hardwood species, that's just not how it's supposed to be used.
