Awesome video. Very helpful . I am Restoring a 96 f350 crew cab and i want to strip the whole thing to bare metal. Was just using a air da Sander until i found this video. Never would have thought to use my Polisher. Thanks fo saving me a bunch of time 🤘🤘
Oh yes the heat and the coarse grit on that steel will make a mess. 80 grit and don't stay in the same spot to long and don't press hard and concave your pannels
Learn something new today. I have a 98 M3 that was resprayed but not in a good way. Want to strip the paint down to the bare metal and have it repainted it to factory quality.
The big boy really does the job nicely. My old heavy polisher is definitely a better tool than my little 5" DA. I've got a chipped up hood I need to attend to and the new aircraft stripper is garbage. You still have to sand after using it. What are you using for a sanding backer? When someone has f'ed up the metal finish do you end up relying on high build primer (ala 30 grit) rather than thinning the sheet metal to get it smooth?
Ya it really works very well. If someone has messed up the metal I would go over the effected area with a new piece of 80 grit on my da and blow it off really good then skim coat it with metal glazing puddy ( plastic body filler glaze) and block it down straight before primer
I'm a DIY painter I have a WHITE Honda Civic that looks horrendous in white////got it used it was the only civic that they had on the lot that was fairly new and available for zero down...what tools do I need to take all the paint off quickly....the repainting part of it will be pretty quick and easy for me
A quick question. I poked the paint supplier on their dtm epoxy primer sealer and their response was to prep to 400 grit. There is a huge gap between 80 and 400 that leaves me curious. I think it's the paint guy confused by my email. I said "Primer Sealer" but I think he interpreted that as final primer before paint. I am going to block this car out get it straight and flat.
Thanks for this. Can you provide the names of the buffer and the sandpaper that goes with it? I'm unfamiliar with this area and don't want to get the wrong stuff. Thanks
Thanks I'm glad your finding some simple trick to help you out. So blocking down to bare metal.... yes you can. But you can't block past bare metal unless your doing metal finishing work with a file than you can also block out steel absolutely
One thing I want to mention is you can't block the surface metal with anything coarser than 80 grit. If you have sanded on the metal around your lowspots with coarser than 80 grit you will gouge the metal and when you prime your scratches will always show up in your paint.
Your welcome. I'm going to start doing more training videos with tricks for anybody to use soon I'm just digging my way out of a mess that happened a few months ago.
Yes it's a hook and loop. You can buy sandpaper off of Amazon that will fit that pad. They have 7 inch in 80. I had 8 inch and just trimmed up the edge around it.
i see you are using sanding discs on the polisher, was wondering if you have tried using strip and clean discs and how they perform. Looking to strip and entire car down.
I was going to ask if that's a Metabo sp18va, but at the end of the video I see that it is a Hitachi with the same part number. Interesting, didn't know they were the same.
You can use 80 grit just make sure your not digging the contour down. With steel you have a surface that doesn't get chewed away with 80 grit. This polisher might not be a good idea for fiberglass. I would use your da sander with 80 grit. 120 grit cuts super nice and easy to prep into 220 grit.
Loop. I only use sticky with 100 grits and finer. I do use sticky for everything though. It's cheaper and I can keep my blocks straighten out with sticky. Velcro blocks do more bad than good unless the block is a very herd block that doesn't ever loose its shape.
@@BlackStacheBuilds yep I love me some 911s. I hope to restore this and maybe see about trading up or sideways depending on the car I find at the time. Im looking at the 75 style 911.
@@BlackStacheBuilds thanks super excited to try this, so tired of working with the orbital and palm sanders, hopefully saves a bunch of time, subscribed, will be in touch!
@@Izzy323x have fun Stripping!!!!$$$$ I have a 1965 cadillac we are going to do a video on doing this same process to all the outside skins to all the panels. I'm excited to see how much time we are going to save
@@BlackStacheBuilds that's true, what I was working on just needed striping, no metal work. I have a Mustang now that crazed bad on the hood and I'll use this same method, with respirator.
What if you strip with 80, run over it with 180, sem etch primer, red scotchbrite, 2 coats hi teck 1k primer sealer, 600, then on to base? What are your thoughts?
@@BlackStacheBuilds i bought the Harbor freight 7 inch polisher after watching this video. A little cheaper than the hitachi. Do you have a video where you discuss all steps for a DIY paint job ? Sand to bare metal with 80 grit, Epoxy Prime, Sand again ? Epoxy 2nd coat ? Also, what is an alternative primer to epoxy ?
Twisted cup? Show me a picture. I have an angle grinder and have used alot of disc's on them. Are you using air pistol grip angle grinders or a electric industrial grinder? Twisted cup I will look it up. Is that the actual name? I'm all about finding a faster better way. I know my polishers cut paint off fast and I'm preparing the metal for epoxy all in the same motion. Stripping and getting into epoxy faster than this video teaches you would be impressive. We are stripping and epoxying all within just a couple hours. That is epoxy cleaned out of your gun and everything. The people that are not experienced are doing it in this time frame.
Thanks I live your input on this as thar tool is great it really is. The disc's are expensive on that and the guy who actually stripped this hood done his whole car with the tool your talking about and his input about what one works best is hands down the polisher way. I have not used the tool you use but I do trust the polisher over it. It would be hard to strip and prepthe panels in one sweep it saves so much time.
Hi that pad was just a Velcro polishing pad. It's just a Hitachi polished but this polisher doesn't orbit like the new polishers they are using now days. This polisher has one direction not 2 like a duel action polisher. Duel action polishers and sanders don't strip paint fast like this one does and it's just a Velcro hook and look 80 grit disc. This polishing pad is 7" but I had 8" 80 grit for my big red sander in this video so I put the 8" disc on and trimmed the edge off with scissors.
Underside is a different animal lol. All the pockets and edges take a long time to sand as it is. Mechanically stripping it down would take days to do. Do not use liquid paint stripper on the underside of it. If the paint isn’t pealing and is in good shape then I would pressure wash it off and clean it good then just prep it out for paint. If you need to take all the paint off and start over I’d recommend sandblasting it but make sure to stay a few feet away when using a highly effective blaster. It can warp the steel and cause a wavy surface on the topside.
wtf bro! i searched on RU-vid because i need to remove old paint/ primer whatever to do a fresh paint job. before i went on RU-vid i used a 80grit on my palm sander and that sht took lit 1hr to do the roof... what are you using on that rotary i must try!
Ya bro! You got a whole roof done with your Da in one hour! Dam! That is way fast bro! It would take atleast 3 hours so you did good but ya you would be able to strip a whole car in 3 hours if your that fast with this method. It’s just a rotisserie one direction a da is duel action meaning it spins like a polisher but also rotating in a small circle. So I use 80 grit on this video. 120 grit will work well too.
Hi, i need to strip my hood to metal, then i have dents to fill on bare metal.. i have a 1k wash primer for bare metal application, can i spray 1k wash primer then after spray 2k filler primer without sanding the wash primer?
Yes you can and that is how that system is used and I have done that my whole carrier. We just switched to this epoxy only as we are trying it out still to see if we keep only epoxy or use 1k and 2k system. But results are doing great with epoxy only with the CRE 321 thar us. Be sure to wait the recommended time before you apply the 2 k over the 1 k. And you have a time line that you have to put the 2k on before the 1 k dryes to much. I can help you figure those windows if you let me know what products you are using I can research them for you
@@BlackStacheBuilds no prpblem, i ended up using 2k upol high build which it can be applied directly to metal and flatted it off and sprayed base coat and clear, came out looking great
Thanks for the advice. I am new at this and will be stripping my car this coming week. What rust preventer do you use on your panels after you sand? Or do you go straight into primer? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear coat do you usually use? Which primer and paint products do you recommend? I have a 1963 Lincoln Continental I am painting myself.
@@BlackStacheBuilds if you don’t mind answering, what stuff are you recommending after sanding the fiber glass?? Epoxy primer than 2k primer? What brands do you use?
This epoxy I'm using is CRE 321 series. This epoxy primer was getting talked about alot as a favor in the comunity as they say it sands like a 2x and most epoxies are not that way. They are sticky and clog up sandpaper so before we tried this CRE series we only used epoxy when there was no sanding to be done. Industrial sandblasted metal apply epoxy then straight to top coat is how epoxies are normally used in the industry. This epoxy is a high build and we can achieve more mill thickness with lesser coats than 2k primers. So there are a few ways that this epoxy is cheating the system to making it more cost effective and less time consuming to process your final product.
@@BlackStacheBuilds hi thanks for reply .... the mipa 2:1 and multi mix ( U.K.) are 4:1 and sand like 2k primer.... so I’m told.. I’m using paint stripper to strip a few panels then epoxy - guide coat then block 180 find any high/ lows etc
@@richreece8840 I haven't blocked this CRE yet but I will after I fix the damages on the hood that are visible now with this shiny epoxy we are trying out. It'd great to have a shiny product so you can visually see your high and lows to address them before I apply a plastic body filler AKA bonds. We are going to epoxy this hood again with CRE after we straighten it with those fillers. Can't wait to get to final blocking this epoxy and I hope it's not to hard to sand. I don't use 180 to block though I used it in the past alot. I use 220 cause the block marks are not as hard and time consuming to get out.
@@BlackStacheBuilds I allways use guide coat .... I like to see the dent/ lows... I’d like a epoxy that blocks out well..... with high build I usually prime twice 1 for rough block ( see high lows then 2nd for paint
Your only supposed to take off the materials off the metal. Slow the buffer down and always check your surface for heat on any tool you use. Keep moving around not staying in one spot. You got this
@BlackStacheBuilds I've done my bonnet in epoxy, and then do repairs as you said. One part at a time at this stage as I'm just a one man army. But thank you for the info
Sandblasting is definitely the way to go but it can warp the outer skin of your pannels cause of the heat. So you would have to be cautious and blast atleast a few feet away
Aluminum is softer so I wouldn't recommend this method for it. I'd only use a DA with 80 grit to strip aluminum. 80 grit goes pretty fast if it hasn't been painted a couple times.
@@BlackStacheBuilds It still has the military CARC paint on it...I hear it's a BEAR to sand...and Carcinogenic to breath...so respirator for sure, but I'll give the DA a go. Thanks!
@@BlackStacheBuilds Yeah I am using BAUER 5.7 Amp 6 in. Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander. I am using 80 grit pads I got from amazon called SACKORANGE. Its fine to tilt the polisher on its edge? It wont gouge the metal? I did it on a small section and it goes to bare metal within seconds.
@@BlackStacheBuilds I guess what I’m trying to know is if I strip the paint of does it need to be poxy right after ? I’m not trying paint yet how long after stripping paint do I have to paint it
@@BlackStacheBuilds I have a similar rotary polisher with a 7" backing plate. Good idea to use as a sander. the orange Citristrip will take off any paint, still may need to cover with plastic and then use a scraper. Has not been changed as it is not volatile solvent based. citristrip will dissolve the epoxy off the back of a mirror.
