Stropping and Honing Compound Guide for Leather Strops 

Thanks!!! I'm glad you are finding it helpful 😀

You're welcome! There are still a few more I wish to add, like Flexcut, but I need to send out emails to get that info I think.

Ha!!!! That actually sounds kinda fun :)

Perfect! Glad you were able to put the information to use! Have fun :)

Thanks!

Will do! I'll research it and add it, thanks :)

Thanks!

I hear ya!!

Howdy! While I haven't used flexcuts sloyd style hook knife personally, I know the right handed hook knife will get the job done. I've used a similar right handed hook knife in the spoon jack pocket knife and it a great choice to get started. The primary benefits you may get from the sloyd style hook knife is more cutting surface and a more comfortable handle for carving with. Personally, I use my OCC tools variants with a similar hook knife to the flexcut right handed hook knife to great effect.

Naw, if your whittling there's really no need to go past stropping or after hitting with a super fine stone. You really wont notice a difference. But I do prefer the strop as I dont have to prep it, just pick up and go

You will most likely need to take it to a stone first and reshape the edge. Then finish it up on a strop with 3k to 6k grit to hone it sharp and remove the burr.

@@CarvingisFun what stones do you recommend for these steels mentioned above? I saw another video of a guy having good luck with stropping with tormek compound on a flat strop for finishing touch followed by a finer diamond spray.

Each person will have their own process, and it will vary with the desired edge. For me, if it will no longer cut paper, I would take it to a 1k grit stone, then a 2k grit stone, and finish it up on a leather strop with a 3k to 6k grit or equivalent compound.

Good question! I can only go by my own experiences but here we go: For me, I use my strops with compounds to maintain my edge during and after use. Since I don't suddenly hit my edges on anything super hard (like a cutting board after cutting through something without slicing) it is rare that I need to take my edge to anything more than a strop. So your setup with the 28 and 7 micron will suffice for general maintenance if properly handled. Now if your edge is chipped, blunted, and/or rolled in spots, a strop will not do what you need. Since it looks like you are primarily using kitchen knives (beautiful knives by the way, love them) if you aren't slicing through your product and just pushing down so the edge thuds against a cutting board (again assuming here) then there is a higher chance that blunting or damage could occur to the blade requiring occasional stone/rod work to recover the edge. But my belief and experience is proper slicing techniques will allow you to just use a strop to maintain the edge 90% of the time and every so often (every 4-6 months with my kitchen cutlery) take it to a stone to remove any minor chips and blunt spots as they occur. I do have the advantage of having a power strop loaded with chromium oxide so stropping every so often is a breeze for me and quickly recovers my edge compared to that of doing it by hand.

@@CarvingisFun thanks. I have heard of super soft butcher blocks, so for my daughter who would have only stropping blocks, I'm going to research and get her one.

Beavercraft kinda updated their formula a bit and the grey one is actually the equivalent to the green. I think at one point it was green but the color faded or something.

@@CarvingisFun thanks for the quick reply. I was kinda confused when I found the gray one 😬 I started recently and your videos have been really great for a newbie like me Keep up the good work 😁

If the chisel is damaged or dull it will have to be worked on with a sharpening stone, the strops are primarily for honing the edge and to help maintain a sharp edge

I think it will get the job done. I use to only finish my blades off with 2k sandpaper and it was plenty sharp.

Either side is fine, but the smooth side is harder to apply to while thr rough side is easier. Ive seen thr ones where people put a very small amount on and also cake it on as well. You really only need to cover the surface of the strop and it doest take much compound to get the job done.

I agree to go with the rough side for compound and consider a smooth side strop as a finisher with nothing on it.

From my perspective, the wax bars are low to none. Still, I am no health expert and your own research is required. Now, if you were to use the paste stuff or the loose powder it could be higher cus it could be inhailed.

@@CarvingisFun Thank you for your thoughts on that. How does one apply the wax bars? Do you just rub it on the leather, like a crayon?

@kit2770 Basically, yes, I also give some direction in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5Tt3K-kXhJc.html

@@CarvingisFun Thank you.

don't you wash your knifes after stropping with soap and a scrub?

Nothing wrong with that! If you find a way to hone your tools that you are comfortable with and enjoy using, keep using it :)

@@CarvingisFun I've been applying it straight to a piece of wood and putting that in a vise. Seems to work very quickly. My spokeshave iron/blade is old and has screws attached to it. So my strop has to fit inside otherwise the bevel is impossible to sharpen. Do you have any interest in vintage hand tools and other kinds of wood working?

I'm always interested in trying out new/old tools and have plans on expanding my wood carving experience.

@@CarvingisFun that is very exciting man. You can message me on Instagram if you need any help. Good luck buddy.

The newer compound is a little more chalky compared to the waxy versions from before. Still, you don't need a lot on the strop to get the job done, a thin layer where you can still see the leather will suffice. Also, when in doubt, use a heat source like a heat gun or even sitting out in the sun to help melt the wax.

Thanks for the help, really appreciated.

Ya, they changed their formula. Its a bit grey and chalky now. Im on the lookout for a good replacement

Anything with a grit between 3000 and 6000 will get the job done for ya. Beavercraft green or bark river green are good choices

@@CarvingisFun i just ordered the strop on a block and the green compound from home depot i hope this is what you was showing on video

You should be fine :)

@@CarvingisFun thanks again

My dad used to be with the CIA when he was in the military and he gave me his knife and he told me that his knife was, well for regular person it’s illegally sharp for them to have , I don’t know how true that is? I have heard that only cops military personnel are the only ones that should have, it was called OSS before they changed the name to CIA , guess it was G2 where my dad would talk and get information out of the German Soldiers in the war he knew five languages

Its what I primarily use :)

Lol, I second this! Do it!

I thought the same thing too and then was getting confused on why one was less effective than another. It's literally all over the place with no standardization.