Love the reference to Gene Wilder. You have another devote follower. Excellent work and Thank you for taking the time to do your videos and showing your work!
Thanks for the idea Keith after seeing how good this works i ned to make a simular setup. I have lerned more from your videos than I learned in school. I just stated my shop in March last year and tooling up and so far most of my jobs has been line boring and pivot bolts. Keep those videos komming I love watching them
When you was talking about where to put the ground made me think back to this guy that was welding something held up by a 20 ton overhead crane and hooked the ground up to the column that supported the the crane . Everything was fine for about 10 min before the wire rope started glowing and the power box caught fire. After all the damage was done there was almost 10 grand for rewiring and all new bearing and some electronic parts. He wasn't employed with us for very much longer
I held the jig channel to the part with the tube set up to be centered and then tacked supports in place, while somewhat holding back from over welding and causing it to move off center.
@KEF791 lol, great vids. and a beauty bizz, out the side door to the shop, and custom work, WAY better than production, more craft and less green button... john
No problem on the English! The weld always draws and pulls material around and when the welding is done first, all the machining stays true shaped ;{)-----
I guess ones never to old to learn. For many years I always wondered what those T slots could be used for,, this is on a 1918 Heavy Greaves. Is there a reason not to bore, before fabing up the assembly?? heat?? I drill and tap stainless set screws in the housing then into the cutlass then fab good job I learned something
I switch back and forth depending on the need for speed, penetration or pretty welding. Sometimes just changing to change up the pace, to keep in practice. Tig for fine work, Mig for fast fabrication and Stick for structural, most of the time! ;{)------
Flood coolant is very good method of cooling a part in any machine, but if your not able to easily contain it to the machine itself it can make a large mess. ;{)-----
How the heck were you able to get such a good fit on the lathe cradle without having to shim it? I've given up watching TV. Your stuff is way better. -Mike
Hay Keith, been watching your videos for a while now and really appreciate your time and effort for all of us in the trade. I have a question for using flood coolant on a lathe. I am think of setting up a coolant system for the reason of this same job scope you are doing. Would coolant help flush chips and keep the work cool to keep thermal growth to a minimum so over cutting does occur leaving a slight internal taper. Is it worth the mess and worth the idea in your opinion?
I love all the vids,I've told you that before tho,lol.One question.Did you machine a bevel or similar to the channel you made the cradle for?I've had problems before when doing a similar setup,that since the channel is hotrolled,it's not exactly true on the locating points,and drew the part out ever so slightly.Maybe I either had more pressure on the clamps than you,or was trying too hard to keep it on a gnat's ass when I didn't need to :).so I sanded the bottom and milled a small 45 down rails.
