You might want to throw a little Heat at it as well I took a piece of flat steel and cut basically a c shape over it so it went around the shaft and I can weld it several different places to the cap
I had to do the same thing on a old case 1737 I ended up welding something to the Caps while I was able to get on it and really pry on it are blue a part of Penn Ranch as well
Sorry more detail, before loosening that part of the cylinder there is a small screw that's holding it together. I assume you didnt see it as it was probably broken off with the threads stuck inside. Had the same problem with mine.
heat it up with a torch i broke the spanner at first pull so i called the dealer and they sold me one the guy said to heat it up . i told him you crazy it will seaase and they walk me back to a recient job done and sure enough the burn paint was there and hammer it but is a 2 peron job one heatd and hits the other turns the spanner . i havnt try it but will soon
After all that, striking the cylinder end is likely what broke it free. Peening seems to be the standard for overcoming this problem. Also, you should definitely protect the cylinder shaft while welding. Weld spatter will stick to it and ruin your new seals in the first stroke, undoing all that hard labour!
This was a week long project that was edited down for viewing. I would spray PB blaster on the end cap and peen every night after work and then finished the next weekend. They were really stuck. Good call on covering the shaft though. I should have done that. I did take the time to fully inspect all parts before re-assembly to avoid such an outcome. Welcome to Man Time👍
Lol. Yeah that’s what we have to do. Persist and figure it out right. But aluminum end caps?!? The curse words start to roll off the tongue. When I Bullet proofed my 6.0 the curse was very strong. Man Time!
Why not push down on the chain wrench instead of pulling up with your back. Most Glands have a set screw at the rim. Blaming the adjustable gland tool I don't know they always work for me. Try firm tapping around edge of cylinder, heat the cylinder and ice the gland Abd put downward force
just get the big pipe wrench on edge of gland then put 10 foot 2 inch pipe on it only if boucin on wrench doesnt work heat it up .then use the same pipe wrench on th rod nut use the backhoe to hpld th rod . did you grease the threads puting back togather so next times easyer those cute gland wrenches cant handle rusty gland
I’m not smart enough to plan ahead and grease the gland nut for the next guy LOL! I didn’t reef it down so maybe that cute wrench has a chance next time.
That is what I looked like today.... mine is on a bobcat, gland nut is aluminum, so I can't weld it... that tool was useless for me too, it warped and mangled the aluminum glan hole... even tried the air hammer... no luck so far...
I’d be curious on the cylinder cost from Bobcat. If the difference exceeds X I jump on that deal. My replacement cylinder was $2500, if memory serves. I bought a bent used one for $600. Makes you wonder what you’re getting for the $ though
I wonder if he took a Gland screw out or if he has a broken gland screw. In? There and that's why he can't get it off cause. I've never seen one that hard to get off so I'm thinking. He's got a gland screw either broken off that he doesn't know what's there or he doesn't know? What's there and didn't take it out? One of the otwe're got water in the. Hydraulic fluid at one time at all collected down in there and rusted that thing solid so a little heat would take it right off but look for the gland screw because if that head got broke off and you don't know what's in there you're gonna play h*** getting that off
I double checked today and there is no Allen screw to lock the cap. Might have been a different model 555 you had. There are lots of flavors but that’s a good suggestion to check for one
