Subfloors - Best Practice - Real ReBuild 

Grear vid. I have used advantech 1-1/8 th floor sheathing for a while and heres my take: i have numerous squeaks if using nails. The advantech foam glue has zero body (too thin) and less working time. So i switched to pl polyurethane from loctite. I now use simpson strong tie number 10, 3 inch collated screws every 6 inches. I NOW have zero squeaks, zero rusted floor nails, and the glue covers the entire joist flange. I make it a point to go below the floor and look up; if i cant see glue oozing everywhere, then there was NOT enough glue used. In the end, the glue will fail, the screws wont. Advantech subfloor is awesome and i will have great success with my preferred method. 😊

When I glued and laid 4x8 subfloors, call me anal, but I found out if you slam the sheets down a lot of the glue would be blown out, so I would lay them down gently and as close to the correct position as possible, But that was with the older subfloor adhesives, don't know how the polyurethane glue reacts to plywood being slammed down.

I'm in San Diego, getting ready to build my own house & without doubt will be using the 11/8 th flooring. I am going to be implementing all your tricks & techniques you have taught me over the last few years. And I am going for a passive home as well, much thanks Matt!

Two layers of 5/8" Advantech. First layer transverse to the joists & second layer longitudinal, glued & screwed. Better than reinforced concrete.

I used 3/4 Advantech over 1/2 original plywood subfloor to replace 3/4 inch particle board that had carpet on it. We then had wood flooring installed over the Advanrech. Made for a solid floor. I used 155 sheets. It took two men six weeks to remove the carpet, tile flooring, particle board and prep the remaining original 1/2 plywood subfloor. It took the same two men six days to install the Advantech subflooring. Because it is flat and straight, it goes down quickly. Saves money on labor. It us a great product.

Last year I overlayed a old trailer floor on our “winter” home with Advantec ! Used the 1 1/8 on old trailer flooring so there was no use to glue it because it was worthless material to begin with . Screwed it all down TIGHT . This year there were a couple butt joints that were barking when you stepped on them . Backed off the screws on both sheets , stuck a crowbar in enough to pump liquid nails in and screwed it tight again ! No more barking . When I built my home in Upstate NY my floor joists were 2x12 Doug fir and liquid nails and 3/4 T&G plywood and nails . Been 30 years - no squeaks !

Matt, I so enjoy your videos. I am a school construction inspector our here in California and don’t see much residential, but I love your deep insights into what makes a QUALITY build. Thanks!

Do it right the 1st time, Gently, lay down the board, It only takes a few seconds more!!! Slamming them, I don't allow. Take pride in your job!!! Signing off, from Indianapolis, Indiana....GO COLTS❤

Long Island NY Builder here, in 2012 I was introduced to Warmboard now wherever financially possible we recommend. They have a 1-1/8” product for the subfloor with great tech support & local reps.

Solid, quiet floors ... just yesterday I saw a video about the palace of a Japanese ruler that had floors carefully designed to squeak ... so that potential assassins could not sneak up on him in his home!

In North Eastern Pennsylvania here. I am using 11 7/8" I-joists @ 16" o.c. using 3/4" Advantec. We are using caulk tube subfloor glue (polyeurathane based). and shooting a 2 3/8" ring shank nail.

When I was working construction fulltime in upstate NY (1999-2008) we were running the TJI's with 23/32 advantech, glued down with PL (I think it was OSI or something close) and fastened with nails. The polyurethane is huge with stopping noise. We'd always use a maul to set the sheet though. Usually a 4 foot 2x4 scrap or whatever was on the bottom of a delivery skid would help set the sheet in the grove without beating up the edge. Then tap the end to finish it up. Worked real slick.

The mic is using auto-gain control (AGC) which reacts to the loud transient sounds of the nail gun, causing his voice level to dip down.

Impressive attention to detail for a builder. Great video. Thanks.

I'm going to make my builder sit down and watch all your videos!

I’m cringing watching that guy smack that plywood groove with a sledgehammer. Someone should give him a beater block.

Great advice Matt, as builders we really need to think long term especially when it comes to warranty issues. Keep the great videos coming!

Did 1 1/8 t&g plywood screwed and glued to TJI, worked fantastic, dryer climate here in CA though

I did a mold inspection in Rockport, TX after Hurricane Harvey. The house had this same subfloor and thickness. Even with all of the staples in it and standing water, there was very little water penetration. No warping at the seams. Pricey sure, but in a half to one million dollar home, well worth it.

New age MGO subflooring is also a really good option, its more fire resistant, and like cement offers a high degree of noise reduction between floors. Its also semi flexible and strong.

5:30 Glue is always stronger than screws or nails if it is the right glue. For wood to wood connections that is.

I really enjoy your videos. As a german, our way of building is totally different tho. At least nowadays. And I might be going out on a limp right now but I feel in many cases a much more solid way.

We use 3/4 advantech on our custom built houses but we do everything on 2x12 on 16 on Center 1 1/8 is special order and it's really expensive

Decking was 1x4- 1x6 nailed down on joists with 6p nails cement coated . 45 degree to centerline .Glue was optional. Squeaks? Wetness ? It dried out. Solid wood quarter sawn , air or kiln dried is hard to beat.

I learn so much here Matt, thanks.

thanks for sharing the knowledge Matt!

As someone from another country, and sensing that he is aiming for a strong house, I am wondering why Matt is not building with concrete, or concrete based materials like Durisol/Nexcem or Faswall. I am ignoring cost of course, but then, didn't this project cost a lot of money because it had a house on the lot?

I have used 22mm chipboard with polyurethane glue with no nails or screws without squeaks before on either I joists or metal Web joists. It's a Caberdeck moisture resistant chipboard with a peel and stick cover. Important to let the glue spill out over the joints so that it forms a waterproof seal until the roof is covered over. After all wet trades and painting is done you take the peel and stick off and use a floor scraper on the excess glue. Works a treat.

I love your video's been a fan for two years and have learned a lot. Thanks a ton.

If I where to build a house, I would use 2x6 studs and 1/2 ply with 2 inch foam and 1 1/8 plywood for floors with I joists

Great videos Matt Thanks. When I was framing 20 years ago I was told by an engineer that if you glue the tongue and grove the floor is 30% stiffer. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks

He can’t stop production to show RU-vid how the installation works.. give the man a break. Great Video!

Used Advantech 1-1/8” & 3/4” since it’s availability (thanks to Matt). Glue and ring shanks are a must but swelling in Houston is still a problem. Standard practice in the budget now to grind the seams. Austin is more forgiving? Great video.

I only use 1-1/8" t&g fir. best by test. holds wood floor fasteners better than chipped wood products

You need compression on the audio during post-prod. Would help the levels due to the nail gun tremendously :)

That dual camera mode on your phone is pretty cool and convenient, ain't it? Problem with high end phones, though, is that they actively adjust the microphone audio based on the amount of noise around you...🙄

Matt, your guys are just slamming your expensive and heavy sheets down on those glue beads. Are you still getting good adhesion or is most of the glue splattered out the sides from the slam?

I live in a hundred year old farm house. The floor in the kitchen bounces pretty good. Subfloors are t&g floors are hardwood maple and no Squeeks.

I mostly do 5/8 on 5/8 on 3/4 cdx with no overlapping edges with a lot of glue in between layers and nail and screwed down I have not had one call back in 20+ years of setting tile on this method but you need to use Grannyrapid tile glue

Hey Matt! Love your channel! I just bought an older home on acreage. Unlike my previous home, the new house is on a conventional foundation. I have gun safes that are quite heavy. How do determine how much weight is safe on the foundation? I currently have them in an enclosed garage which of course is on a slab. Maybe a video on how to reinforce my new home's foundation? Thanks in advance!

I used a flooring foam adhesive years ago and I didn’t realize what the heck it was so I stopped. I thought it was supposed to be like regular foam, because I take the can from stash that had cans of from. When I saw it deflated, it just threw me off. However, I’m looking forward to using it in the future. I know regular construction adhesive can sometimes pill away from LVL’s! I guess some LVL’s have a wax coating on them, and something PL just will not stick.

One big mistake on the flooring: Flooring should be Screwed and not nailed. Nails don't have the hold down strength that screws do! Yes it helps even if you use the floor glue. Saving a Few buck with nails doesn't really help especially with collated floor screw gun. Also noticed no hangers on the floor joists. usually TGI joist manufacturers require hangers. Also recommend using LVLs over LSL. LSL tend to swell when they get wet.

Matt, sound went in and out through the entire video. Great job keep it up.

Would love to see a video where you do an in-depth comparison including cost for 2 x 4 trusses, LVL, two by dimensional lumber, and I-joists

Matt, please fix the analytics on your build show network website, I’ve been trying to let you know without any success over various outlets.

Best practice would use screws, not nails. And don't drop the sheets, it blows the glue out. Lower the sheets slowly and screw them down.

I would like to see these houses in 50 years. So much osb used I would suspect there will be long term issues

Love your videos matt keep up the great job

Great choice of floor. I like that it is thick, so you don't get a floor that sounds like a drum. But some comments. When you glue, no need for nails och screws. But you need them to to hold before they dry. So that gives, you only need nails, not screws.

In CT and higher end homes our standard is I-JOISTS and 3/4 Advantech

Is it better to drive male edge of sheet into female edge of sheet that has been nailed down, or other way around?

Are you using two cameras in one hand? How did you record this? What app on cellphone?

1 1\8 is a must for stairs

Matt it looks like the glue goes on as a foam and then shrinks down so thin as to not be enough. Is there really adhesion enough not to fail? With other glues, the amount you see is the amount that remains. How tested is this foam glue over time? It just looks to me like not enough material is there.

No glue in the joints between the sheathing? Our build code requires glue in the joints so that the sheathing becomes like one solid sheat.

I like your videos. Been watching them for a while now. How those manufactured I beam floor joist might be good for building, but if I know as a firefighter those have been installed you would not see me walk into that place if it's on fire. Those burn quickly. That's where old 2x material is superior.

In Michigan we roll are floor joists at 16" centers. That must be some of that Advanced Framing.

I could watch a video of them squirting that glue out for hours. Very satisfying. The visual equivalent to ASMR.

himatt good luck on your new house keep up good work

Some hardwood floor companies don't warranty their products installed on OSB and require a minimum 3/8th plywood be installed over OSB before installing moisture barrier and hardwood flooring

5/8” OSB at 24” O..C. 2x8’s on a 16’ span. 3/4” roofing nails and bubble gum as adhesive. A little Thompson’s Water Seal to keep water out. Been doing for years. Not one callback...

Excellent informative video.

On other videos, the wind, the camera direction, the background, etc This one, the nail gun and the camera direction What’s a decent collar clip mic cost these days?

Cool joists design, but what about the nails that are placed to hold down the sheets? Those gets rusty after the years and the squeaky floor begins. For me the deck screws that have doble pattern threads and coated are lifetime and prevents that issue. What are your thoughts about the nails?

Just did the same truss and flooring in Nashville Tn. 2 months ago

Maybe someone can answer this for me... I have a house I am remodeling that was built in the mid 80's. It has an OSB subfloor that is actually pretty soft. You can visually see it flex when stepping on it in some places. My question is - can I cut out that subfloor at the walls and lay down 3/4" in it's place? I realize I would get a stiffer floor going with 1 1/8th - but I think that would raise the floor level too much. So anyway - that is my question - can I just cut out the old softer osb and put in something like 3/4 advantec (screw and glue)?

Up in Michigan for standard builders we use 2x10 joists. And I rescrew the floors after drywall is hung with simpson strong tie/ screw gun.

This is the stuff we want to know! Thanks!

It would have been good to point out the best practice your carpenters were doing as well. A lot of guys will nail the corners down and seize a bow in the decking, your guys were doing it right though by starting on one end and walking up the nailing. This flattens the decking as you nail. Good work! P.s. I have seen advantech keep throw together basement site shops dry all winter through spring..no membrane or tarp! Superior product!!!!!

How do you think 1 1/8" compares to a double layer of 3/4" over 24" OC? Same thickness as a 2x stud.

Would you ever consider using or is there a benefit/drawback to using a Lignoloc nailer with this flooring? Or have you considered starting to incorporate the Lignoloc system in your builds? I remember you introducing me to them in your Swiss video series. Thanks.

Hey Matt! Those I joists are hanging off a beam that runs down the center of the house. About 5 feet from the edge of the home there is a jog and you are using something else to support those I joists it looks like there are cut outs so you can run mechanicals through it. What is this?

Lay floor down and then cutout for plumbing?

2" x 4" against the decking when using a sledge hammer. What framer wouldn't know that?

I did not see any adhesive on the rim joist at 4.25 do you not glue your rims. Building in the cold country near Yellowstone park I did not have the vapor barrier on the dirt in the crawl space , in freezing weather the moisture from the ground migrated up thru the seams in the floor osb then froze then melted causing swelling. it took a bit of time with a 9 inch grinder with 40 grit ,,, Cold weather nail guns can freeze up and not work. One set of hoses and guns under a heat lamp to switch off.

How are you running mechanicals and wiring through the ceiling on the 1st floor / 2nd floor subfloor with these I-joists?

How do you stop the tongue and groove from squeeking. My second floor is driving me crazy and I've already screwed my second floor down at the joists

I'd like to see a comparison with your Advantech and 3/4" T&G floor sheeting. The sound went away while you were talking price, but I thought you said this sheeting was about $40.00 per sheet. With 3/4" T&G floor sheeting going around 28 - 29 bucks each, I'd really have to see a monster reason to go with yours. Unless I am missing something!!! I mean $10 per sheet for at least two decks, that's a pile of money!!!

How about reaidential dropped ceilings for ducts?

I think my biggest worry using advanteh is that it is still an OSB.

1-1/8 advantech is the way to go only use that on my homes great product!

I see it over and over again, dropping the sheet of sub floor down on the glue that is meant to prevent squeaks. When that sheet of sub floor is dropped and it hits the joist the glue is smashed and most of it is gone from the top of the joist. If you want to do it right let the sheet of sub floor down gently so you don't slap the glue and pretty much defeat the whole purpose.

No edge gluing of the boards???

are your guys using ring shank nails since you're not doing screw anymore?

These manufactured beams might be great on the west coast where is it dry but I can't see these laminated wood beams lasting long in high moisture environments like craw spaces that stay moist and wet. I would be more inclined to use them on second floors and ceiling joists that are not in wet moldy environments.

Can you use the glue underneath bottom plate in concrete foundation house?

I guess it would of helped if my builder screwed the subfloor down better in some areas of the house. Have some squeaks/creaks sounds that I think the only way to fix would be to tear up the carpet and screw it down. Big hassle.

Yes, it's hard to beat I-joists for their dimensional stability, but they do have one serious weakness. They fail startlingly fast in a fire! In fact, firefighters (at least in my neck of the woods,) refuse to enter a burning home if it's relatively new construction because almost all the builders around here use them extensively.

There's absolutely no chance that any new construction or remodel I'm paying for will use nails instead of screws on the floors. Seems like a crazy place to save money if you agree screws are the better option.

Why not open joists for easier mechanical routing? Then you can also fill the rest of the openings with insulation ...

Thanks, Matt. Now pay a visit to Caraker and show him all the things he isn't doing right! :-) Just kidding, but I do enjoy the videos when you guys do a show together.

Audio makes video almost unwatchable

I know it's fast, but nailing floorboards isn't good. I hope that glue works. My house from 2010, I tore up the carpet and went around and screwed down all the floorboards I could because the original nails were raising up and causing squeaks.

I like Plywood

nailing the floors is okay?! We always use a PAM gun and I hate that thing!

Joints must be closed with silicone to prevent wind and dust plywood is a good idea.

Any recommendations for soundproofing your upper level floors?

What is the rule on fall arrest? Here it is anything over 3 meters.

Real rebuild... I can finally take this seriously.

Hum, you said you paid about $40 per sheet for Advantech OSB, this video is dated 03/21. In 06/21 I paid $90 per sheet at Home Depot. Sounds like they should be called "TakingAdvanTechofYou" Right...I know ALL types of subfloor have skyrocketed, I'm not just picking on this one company. BTW thanks for explaining the benefits (in another video) of using this top of the line flooring, which I might have never learned about.