Would love to see a video of you making a multi part mold of an object that has an inner mushroom shaped hole with a water soluble core, basically insert molding. I'm into action figures and I tear them apart to see how they were made, but never seen the molding process of these parts. Awesome video also, enjoyed it!
Great video Milo, I did learn a lot here..........this has changed my way of thinking for future mold making and resin casting................and thank you for giving the material #'s for the rubber and resins........keep up the great work.
This is a great guide to making multi-piece molds 👌. I learn a lot from your tutorials. I would like you to make more videos explaining the manufacture of complex molds such as the skeleton or the camera that Milo showed. Thanks for sharing Smmoth-on 👏👏👏
1. Awesome video! 2. I'm new to mold making. Ultimately, I want to produce a bunch of plaster molds from a single silicone mold for mass producing slip casts. I am using a 3D resin printer to print my designs, but when I attempt to make a silicone mold of that, the silicone touching the 3D printed object never cures; it stays goopy. How should I go about this?
Hi there. Glad you enjoyed it! It sounds like you are seeing cure inhibition. The UV printed pieces can cause the silicone to not cure. Here is a video where we show how to make a mold of a UV printed 3D piece. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5VC5mkW3Eg4.html If you have any further questions you can reach out to our technical support team. www.smooth-on.com/support/ticket/add/agree/
@@smoothon I missed the stream, agghh! Where do you source the clear mixing containers? I would love to get some like that, but your site only seems to have the translucent containers with the graduation markings. Thank you.
suggestion : That problem you explain at 17:06 could be solved (could be solved??? , well, at least this is what I think) could be solved changing a bit the split line (or split plane?) so the silicone embraces the column a tiny little bit. So, once the clay is removed, in case the column goes off the mould, you push the column against the mould and it grabs the column. At least this works in my mind, I am not positive if this hack would work in real life, but i think so. In order to create a robust edge for the mould, you would need to do a split plane, a bit more complex. It would not be just a simple plane, otherwise the resulting silicone would have an edge at 45 degrees, less LESS robust than the one you have done at 135 degrees, or 90 degrees if the corners of the column are rounded. Let's say the split plane is 5 milimetres (or a fifth of an inch) under the normal, the clay would need . . . like some sort of extra wave lifting up and touching all the silhouette of the column. The easiest way of making this wave (Not sure but I think so) is putting exactly the same amount of clay you have put (not 5 mm under) you take off the column for a moment, and you carve that complex split plane I have described. You start with the knife (or cutter) at 45 degrees doing the silhouette of the column (in theory, the depth of this cut would be 7 mm [7.07 . . . ], anyway, a cut, that's it) . And later you take off more clay. You get rid of these 5 mm I have told. This sort of river-bed you are about to carve (with 5 mm depth) only would need to be one inch (or even half inch) wide, rather than wasting time, taking off a big amount of clay. Once you've carved that crocodile pit (sorry, the proper analogy came to my mind too late) you put again the column on the clay (hoping it will not float under the silicone) and that is it. By the way, talking about floating : Instead of surrounding the entire silhouette of the column with this crocodile pit, we can carve only 2/3 of it. On these silhouette sections with no pit (the four corners, for example), we add more clay, retaining the column in order to avoid floating. These four extra bits of clay, would have the same form (or the same section view) of the crocodile pit, but in negative.
How do create a mold that I can embed pieces of wood into for a support structure? Is it best to call one of the stores to discuss my idea with someone?
You can add Silc Pig silicone pigment to Mold Star 15 to alter it's color. For more options, a T-series Mold Star rubber could be used, such as Mold Star 20T translucent silicone.
Hi there, if you have a question about a particular mold, can you send us a tech ticket? Our team can help you - www.smooth-on.com/support/ticket/add/agree/
@@smoothon @@smoothon how would a collapsible core be made the inner core is essentially spaced out flattened cubes with one long rectangular prism running through the center connecting them, lots of sharp right angles _--_--_--_--_. I'm able contruct the shape of the void out of acrylic cubes and cast it but I'm left with a solid silicone void that cannot be removed. would a silicone slip casting of the first mold be the way to make this "collapsible core" or is there another method to making a collapsible core?
This is a good question for our tech support team to look into deeper, can you send them a ticket here? www.smooth-on.com/support/ticket/add/agree/ Thanks for watching!@@Darkbulb1
Thanks for watching Wesley Burnett. We do not provide moldmaking services, but we do have a list of moldmakers on our website: www.smooth-on.com/moldmaker/