Sukenari Hap40 210 kiritsuki 

Hmm. Probably the Hap40 just because of lot better retention

My favorite would be my honyaki I had owned or my M4

@@agibson2005 What knife is the M4?

No. This knife in ZDP however is a contender for best workhorse ever. This thing is nowhere near laser. Good luck finding any HAP40 or even ZDP knives that are lasers. HAP40 you just wont find because the steel is very prone to warping. It's not intended for knives. Overall not a good steel choice after extensive testing. ZDP on the other hand, amazing for kitchen knives. Not many knives that are made with it and they're all expensive, and very few are approaching laser territory. The sukenari is firmly a workhorse. In fact the Zwilling line of ZDP knives, not the miyabi but the zwilling labeled version is much closer to a laser. It's not a good knife though because the handle is a literal brick. I have a custom ordered TF Denka that is a ground very very thin and that thing is my favorite knife. ZDP feels a lot like the steel on that except the ZDP stays sharp like several times better, but also takes several times the effort to resharpen. But just to be clear it's very easily takes great edges, one just takes an equal amount more work for how how much longer it holds the edge. HAP40 is dog poop to sharpen, it's not nice.

@@jeffhicks8428 Where are you getting this information from? This knife in the video is near a laser actually, 2.2-2.3mm at the spine with a decent grind. I'm not sure what else you would consider a laser. The reason you won't find very thin HAP40 or even ZDP-189 is because of the carbide type and carbide volume present in both of those steels which lead to higher wear resistance which means more time and abrasives are needed to grind them. Also, they're relatively brittle steels, and they're usually upper 60s HRC which leads to even less toughness. Making a production knife made out of these steels that is super thin behind the edge is just asking for the blades to get a chippy reputation. All stainless or semi-stainless steels can be prone to warping, that's one of the benefits of plate quenching that's often used for stainless steels. HAP40 also has a much better range of qualities for kitchen knives than ZDP-189. Both require diamond abrasives to really get a crisp apex with the vanadium carbides on the HAP40 and the big and numerous chromium carbides in the ZDP-189. Again, I'm not sure where you're getting this information that ZDP-189 is great for kitchen knives and HAP-40 is terrible. ZDP-189 is also nothing like the Aogami Super used on the Denka line. If you have any resources to substantiate your claims, I'd be interested to see them

I have M3 knife that is a favorite.

Hi! They are great. More surface area for glue so lower chance of twisting. End grain are ok but can warp more and aren't as edge friendly. Just don't put in dishwasher and you'll be ok

@@agibson2005 oh that's different from what i read in knife forums i thought that endgrain are more edge friendly because the knife go through fibers not cutting the fibers, there's just one article from america's test kitchen that say there's no difference and your old videos using edge grain board, Another question does any wood work because I'm not from us and maple here is way too expensive.

@@loay5639 cherry, maple, walnut all kinds. Check Etsy and just make sure it's not treated or such

There is ZERO difference in edge retention. This is an evidence free myth that everyone just blindly repeats because someone selling end grain boards said it one time. Do yourself a favor and ask for EVIDENCE next time before you believe something. Or better yet, it's not hard to test it for yourself. Try it and see what you find. The same type of wood you will find there is zero relevant difference in how quickly end vs edge grain will dull the knife. What matters much more is picking a good type of wood and a good quality cutting board. Personally, I have both end and edge and both have pros and cons. Edge is overall better and will be easier to maintain and less work and more robust. The end grain does have benefits also in that some of them are very pretty. Buy good quality stuff, don't go cheapo on it. You will regret it. Edge grain I like teak a lot. I also like Walnut. End grain I like maple, walnut, etc.. even tigerwood, which is quite a bit harder, but some of them look very nice and for end grain isn't terrible in performance either. Acadia wood is trash. Do not buy some cheap end grain acadia board.

I wouldnt recommend any type of solid wood cutting board. Any time you go up to the higher Rockwell knives, or regular knives, there’s the possibility of dragging the edge on wood which given the type of heat treat done, could have adverse affects on the edge. Would highly recommend a Hasegawa or an Asahi rubber mat. Look them up, while not aesthetically attractive like a nice wood block, there’s a reason that all of your top Japanese restaurants use them as opposed to wood. One being you won’t damage the edge or dull the edge, there’s no maintenance like oiling, they are anti bacterial and they don’t warp. They are not the cheap plastic cutting boards, these things are amazing. Will never go back to a wood block again.