Thanks for putting this video together, very help and I found exactly what I need: auger attachment for drill, foam "cement", done! I want the poles removable so I will use a pole-in-pole setup. I will set the top of the support pole ground level, cap it, and cover with pavers when not in use. Most support poles are way over-kill. Unless you get 40+ mph winds quite often, 4x4 wooden supports are more than enough. Hell, I use 1.5" electrical conduit and it has held-up for years.
Any Auger bit you can recommend to go to 2' ? While at it, any specific drill ? My corded Hitachi overheated last time for a auger project. @Winston Smiths
I found 4 ft metal poles that are pointed at one end at the garden center. I hammered them into the ground and slipped the pvc pipe over it - its been up for over a year with my sail and lights attached and has worked great. It is very windy where I live and they are very stable and will be easy to remove if I ever have to
Nice. This helped us allot. We mounted a tv without drilling to our post so we can bring it anytime using the ZeboZAP. We needed shade inside and this video helped use decide on the solution.
I cut down 2 pine trees on our property. Removed the bark and cut to length. Chared and applied roof tar to the bottom, stained the exposed areas. Looks and works great.
Great that you put this together, I just wish I included the links to the option so we can view them in more detail if needed. I’m interested in option 3
Great suggestion! Next time I'll link all reviewed strategies discussed, until then though, here is that link you wanted ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UR5hLFw7qSM.html
Pro sounds like 4" diameter or larger at least Schedule 40 pipe or if square then quarter inch thick 4" or larger cemented down approximate half the length of the exposed above ground pipe length maxing out around 5 ft depth for 11 to 13ft exposed poles. That's what I was just reading. I like the PVC pipe method and am thinking using a custom pin footer so can be removed and re used later. Do the pin footer with the PVC center sleeve, so can remove the pipes and also later can remove the pipe pins of the pin footer. I don't see a video anyone doing yet with pin footers like the Handi or Diamond or other Piers.
Wondering if you use that fence post or top rail material with a piece of rebar, fiberglass or steel painted, maybe filled in with a cement mix like open source ultra high performance concrete even without the steel fibers. Thinking that'd be rock solid with an additional downward weight loading where I forgot to mention that would be better to use a pin to assure the pole never comes out of the PVC pipe footer sleeve.
Lol. Sorry. Look at the video on my channel on installing the sun sail shades. It details the hardware needed to attach to masonry. If your wall is wood, some simple rounded brackets to grasp the pole will easily work with a few screws. Sorry about my brevity, I’m just jealous of people with walls
Late in day the sun at my Phoenix home is only about 25 degrees above the ground so vertical shades work well. However my front patio has a 3 ft vertical wall. I've been trying to find a shade that pulls Up from the ground without luck so I'm building my own. I have an unused roll up shade that I will Attach to the side of the wall. Then I will build 2 veterans poles to hold the ends of the shade which will now be the top and not the bottom. I intend to use a pvc sleeve attached to the wall with an inner steel pipe that can slide up and down to carry the weight. Pins acting as stops allow for adjustment heights.
Thanks for putting this video together. It's helpful but I need more details on option #2. You imply it's the best option but there are no details on how to do it.
I’m thinking about trying 8’ t-posts. I am on a super budget, and also live in tornado alley, so I am trying to spend the least amount possible for something to park my brand new car under to help with the bird poop and tree sap, but also something that won’t be expensive to replace if it doesn’t end up working out. Have you ever seen that done? If so, do you have any pros or cons?
I wouldn’t attach it to the wall, when the wind starts blowing it’ll rip the wall apart. Use 6x6 pressure-treated or 4 x 4 minimum size. Buy 12 footers and put 4 foot of that into the ground at a 20° angle away from the ShadeCloth.. when you put the polls in make sure each pole is 2 foot farther away from the ShadeCloth so there is a gap between the ShadeCloth and the pole so you can tighten it down. Also if you have extreme wins like a hurricane, you need to pull it down or it won’t be there when you come back out.
Your pop-up is blocking the dimension diagrams. Is there anyway you can post the these separately so we can see them? I'm having my son to help me & this looks to be very informative. Thanks.
I'm not sure about the 20x20. The weight difference can't be much, so I would try it like in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UR5hLFw7qSM.html
Another option that has worked for me is setting 4x4 composite post sleeves flush with the ground in concrete. This allows me to drop me 4x4x10 post in the sleeve when needed and remove when not needed. I use post caps when not in use to avoid any tripping hazards.
@@MrYonnav Yes, it does work very well. One additional suggestion is to drill a couple of screws outward from the inside bottom of the sleeve before you pour the concrete around the perimeter of the sleeve to prevent the sleeve from coming out of the ground.
@@klittleone thanks! I am going to try this out this weekend! I had the idea of making it removable already but all the 4x4 brackets that I found were too short. You gave me what I needed to look for because I wasn't considering a composite sleeve! Thanks!
@@smellyrhinostudio Concrete has chemicals that decay treated wood. I use a heavy slathering of paint or wrap the ends in a heavy weed block to prevent direct contact with the cement. You'll notice proper deck builders use metal where the large uprights meet the concrete footers to prevent the corrosive damage caused when the two materials meet.
My dad was a carpenter. He told me you could bury a piece of treated lumber, dig it up a 100 years later, dry it and use it as new. HOWEVER, if that piece comes in contact with concrete, it will be damaged in a few short years.
@@krisannekey3218 ehh it's alright. Strong winds tried to tip the post over. I ended up bracing the post with a 2x4 and it works fine. Shade sail is 12ft
Can you please elaborate on the wall. I was thinking of bolting 4x6 to the wall. But a galvanized poll will be better? Also the wood makes it more eye appealing Thankyou
No, I'm not saying a galvanized pole would look better. What I am saying is that; If you have a wall to secure into, then your possibilities are wide open. You don't need to refrence this video is what I really meant. A wall, tree, or anything already existing to tie off to just makes the need void. That said, attach wood if you prefer.
I want some tension to keep my tarp tight... am I missing something here ? Nothing looks like it will hold tension, but maybe 4×4's and that probably would be better with 6x6 Really, am I missing something ?
My neighbor at the end of the culdasac did this just weeks ago. I noticed they’ve blown over A LOT since he first put them up. It doesn’t even get that windy around here!
Also, the same reason of not being sure about permanently putting up poles is what caused me to do the “pole in a pole” technique, which allows me to simply pluck the pole out of the ground when I decide to. Then I can just cap the fixed pole flush with the ground.
So we have a existing wooden deck but the corner posts are only 4 or 5 feet from the floor of the deck. Is there a way to extend them to attach a sun sail to those corners?
I'm considering using the chain link top rail for mine. Do you see it bending at all? Mine would be attached to 6x6 treated deck posts with pipe straps.
I don't know about using untreated. I do know that concrete damages (basically rots) treated wood when they are in contact. I also have no idea about diesel - sorry.
"ground contact" treated wood will not rot, however, it will decay in time with direct exposure to concrete. If you choose the treated wood route, be sure to buy the GC treated, and use a non penetrable barier between wood and concrete. Examples would be waterproof paint, or plastic.
