Man, I love the premise of this type of ride. Just like-minded people getting together for an informal ride. "AND" the route is wonderful. I thought that was a lot of climbing but that downhill is beyond amazing. ✌
I have to agree with bradanders that riding the same routes over and over is a real test of patience! I am so jealous of the endless combinations you guys ride. Love the show Henry.
Such a bummer that a lot of these types of rides are still only posted on Zuckerberg products. Some people, like me, have stopped using them for obvious reasons and are left out of the loop. I wish more groups would have email lists or some other way of sharing this information with people. Looked like a fun ride.
Always a fun ride that includes Meyers Grade! I love the couple of spots where the road, already steep and fast, just drops even steeper and whoooooosh. :-) Also nice to see that Moscow Road is getting some love, I guess... when it's fixed it'll mean cage traffic steps back up, and less lonesome for bicyclists.
I had a new Roubaix, with clicking spokes in the rear wheel, re tensioning didnt fix it. During climbs it always clicked. 4000.00 bike with no name 100.00 wheelset. Specialized said both halves were mine and to not bother them. New wheelset and it was fine.
Parktool did some videos on the spoke lacing question, and they also seem to think it's fine either way. One important advantage of over-over-under lacing appears to be pulling in the spokes a bit, so the rear derailleur will be less likely to get caught in the spokes. Also it should make the spokes resonate less.
Looks like fun! We have regular AM group rides here, but, they 90% flat rides on the same routes over and over, and over, again. The leader likes flat, he likes a gradual pace, he likes routine. Its his training program so that's what his rides are. Im taking a break and riding Mt bike/gravel bike/ climbs on road bike, variety is the spice of life! I would love to come do these rides you have going on there, I really like the gravel/dirt/pavement routes.
@@Henrywildeberry That is for sure! I like em all, mt bikes, gravel bikes, road bikes.....it does seem like the pure road riders around here anyway, are happy riding on straight flat roads with very few corners , and doing it over and over...Its a social thing which I get . It gotta branch out is all.
I am an amateur bike mechanic and do some wheel building and swapping rims/hubs. I use 3 cross on everything but recently gave up the over/under thing. Sometimes you have to bend the spoke quite a bit at the end. Also many hubs such as Mavic use a direct pull style spoke with no over/under. I am a heavy rider (110kg+) so nothing unusual so far. I built a set of wheels with a Velocity A23 asymmetric rear rim. So much easier to even out the tension drive/non-drive side.
I plan to stick with 3-cross going forward. The 2-cross ends up with a large kink in the spoke and the angle of the spoke coming off the hub doesn't look as nice to my eye. For what little weight savings it just doesn't seem worth it. The asymmetric rim sounds nice. I've had to really up the drive side spoke tension to get the non-drive side tensioned. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I built a 2 cross wheel for a customer today, over under as always. Used very thin bladed j bend spokes. I could bend them over the hub flanges easily with my thumbs. I tensioned the drive side to 110kgf. Then when you install the tire, the air pressure will drop tension in the wheel significantly. I've always laced over under. This has worked fine in 30 years of building. My wheels very rarely break spokes or go out of true. Personally I like a bit heavier spokes for reliability and harsh use. 28 or 32 1.7/2.0 spokes laced to a fairly light aluminum rim. This builds a pretty rugged wheel for underbiking type mixed dirt rides. My wheels are all 130 or 135mm QR wheels due to all my old metal frames. I don't use more than 10 speeds to minimize dish. I build dishless track hub wheels that I take off-road and that are extremely tough. I haven't damaged one of these wheels yet and I ride on lots of rocks on 35mm tires. After lacing, you need to take a rubber mallet and tap down the j bend where it bows out exiting the hub flange. Jobst Brandt refers to it as 'improving spoke line' or some such in his book. The more dish a wheel design has, the higher tension you need to use on the driveside to get the non driveside up to a decent enough tension so it doesn't tend to detension. Modern good quality spokes and alloy rims can handle 110-130kgf. But on heavier duty wheels with less dish you can use less tension. The key to strong wheels is attention to every little detail, 'practical design' and as even tension as possible. Keep stress relieving the wheel until it remains true after stress relieving. I get all the spokes within + or - 10% same tension or better on a given side.
I enjoyed watching your video particularly the downhill sweeping bends near the coast, I have seen you and M's Cools on that route and the bends need to be treated with respect i did notice one of the riders about 6.30 into the video seemed to be riding a very close clearance frame unless they were really massive tyres ?
He was riding a road bike with knobby cyclocross tires. I was impressed with his ability to keep up with the others on wider tires. I was also impressed the tires actually fit on the bike with short reach road calipers.
Awesome ride by awesome people 👍🏻. By the way how many miles that Snoqualmie Pass have been ridden? Do you think they are still rideable after the tread worn out? I love them because they are fast & supple but not so much for the durability.
Thank you! This set of tires is pretty old. I purchased them sometime around 2014-15, if I remember correctly. I picked them up to use on my hard tail MTB before I had a 700c "gravel" bike with clearance for wide slicks. I used them mainly for the Grasshopper races. When I built up my gravel bike I already had them. If you look through my grasshopper video series I mention them a few times. When it comes to these lightweight "supple" tires, I find the wider they are the longer they last. For example, on my 650b rando bike I use the 48mm wide tires. I can easily get 5,000 or more miles out of a set, and even more if I cycle the front tire to the back and just buy one new tire to put on the front. The sidewalls are super thin as you know and will get sidewall cuts. I run them with tubes as a result because it's just a matter of time before the sidewall will cut and you will have to run a tube anyhow. With the sealant all over the inside it's hard to get them completely cleaned out. For a tubeless set up I would go for the endurance casing or pick a different tire with a thicker sidewall. I've experimented with other heavy tires like Schwalbe or Conti tires and find they work pretty well tubeless. All the best!
I know who he is, but I don't know him personally. I follow him on IG. He must have a wealth of knowledge on wheel building. I really like his blog post on rim brakes. I've referred to it many times.
@@Henrywildeberry I know him from San Diego 35 years ago, we all hung out with Chuck Hoeffer owner of Pacific Coast Cycles in Carlsbad. Chuck knew most of the original mtn bike frame builders in the U.S.and brazed frames for Masi USA in CA; Mike Varley went on to work at Pacific Coast and learned Chuck's wheel building and mech skills. Mike is probably one of the best wheel builders in CA. Great video! Thanks for some CA memories, it is butt cold in CO today! ☮
