3:38 - Oh, that's how he does it! I had no idea the flux was keeping the jacket from melting. I just knew I was watching videos where the jacket doesn't go anywhere when he puts the iron near it, then I try to do the same thing and the jacket goes back about a mile. I never actually put flux on the jacket, just the wire itself. Thank you for pointing that out!
I'd say a much quicker way of removing those capacitors would be to heat both legs at the same time, pull the cap out, and then just clear the holes with the wick.
Instead of applying heat and pulling the capacitor out, couldn’t you remove the solder from both holes with the solder wick? This way would wouldn’t risk pulling out the pad, right? Maybe I’m misunderstanding.
I didn't remember what I did in this video, but my general way of fixing FBX profiles is to Google "*console* FirebrandX profile" and follow the guide from his site. He usually has a comment about changing sampling phase for your specific console. www.firebrandx.com/OSSC/OSSC%20-%20Nintendo%20Super%20NES%20Optimal%20Timing.txt
I have one of the first snes models I replaced a broken power port and now on some games I get the Nintendo logo and can hear sound but no picture just black screen. And on some games I get nothing but black screen. Could this be the caps?
I have retrotink 5x and it’s buffer modes are supposed to remove jitter. But, neither triple buffer or frame lock remove the jitter. On the latest firmware also. Do I still need the dejitter mod¿
@@dubesinhower the arthrimus video you have in the description. At 16:18 he removes what looks like a resistor from the dejitter board before doing the jump.
@@iamchrisbailey Not really sure, the version I have is v1.3 whereas his is 1.2 so maybe there's a difference there. Also, according to this shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=66640 shmups post that resistor is not even in the circuit when JP2 is open, which it is in this case.
Is there a European store where I can buy a cap kit? Shipping to the Netherlands is 18 dollars ... and probably 3 months or smth (usually is from US to NL).
ugh, I just bought the stupid desoldering gun. Hurts the wallet but maybe now ill finally get around to the 10 some odd soldering projects I've been neglecting. Used your link so hopefully you get a little $ from it!
Awesome, I appreciate that! I use mine all the time, you won't regret it. One piece of advice is to clean it with the included poker thing every time you use it to avoid clogs
@@dubesinhower UPDATE: just got the gun and attempted to re-cap a broken sega Genesis VA7 I've had forever. Turns out I still stink at soldering :( took me like a half hour to get 1 capacitor out. practice makes perfect I guess. That and youtube videos
A generic AV (composite) to HDMI converter will work without any mods. The RetroTink 2x mini is a great option for getting good quality video with low latency on a modern TV without doing any mods
Hi, I installed SuperCic with Dejitter and I have some solid color "waves" on the screen after the mod in 60hz mode. At 50hz no waves. It's very discreet, but I can see, only in solid colors. Do you think it's Dejitter? Does this happen on your system?
@@dubesinhower Yes, with OSSC and RetroGaming Cables C-sync. But in framemaister these waves occurs too, is very very discreet, It seems as if the frequency of the colors were higher than the television can reproduce and that's why small waves appear, it's a little difficult to explain and to Record because is minimal, I believe it's due to Dejitter because my other SNES without Dejitter don't have this "problem" and only occurs in 60hz, but I can't be sure about that.
@@dubesinhower I upload a video trying to show, note the diagonal waves in the blue color of the screen, it is quite discreet. ru-vid.come2mFMqwAl3A?feature=share
Hello, very good videos, you would give me the job of changing the capacitors and installing the voultar mod in a snes 1chip and snes jr if one sends you the console and the capacitor kit and mod and pay you for that service.
@@dubesinhower Please inform me when you are active in the modifications and make sure you get my two consoles and you can install the RGB MODs and capacitor changes.
The Super Nintendo doesn't have a "imperfect signal" for its video. It's not a flaw it's just the output resolution of the system not a mistake. Most modern Tvs have a hard time even seeing a 240p video signal much less scaling it properly and perfectly like a Crt does. Which is why everyone should just use a Crt, preferably a rgb capable crt which there are many options for that in the US, if they really want the best picture for the Super Nintendo or any other retro console 408i and under. Playing retro consoles on modern tvs is like walking into Disney Land with Bug's Bunny ears and asking for Josie and the Pussy Cats to take a group photo with you. Just get a crt with component inputs, they're everywhere and cheap, and use that. Cheaper, easier, and much better picture quality than even those hdmi mods.
