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Ich habe eine Idee zum Drucken!!!! Und zwar ein Volume Spacer den man in eine Federgabel einsetzt. Ich würd gerne jeweils 3stk von von jeder Temperatur bei dir Kaufen um dich auch etwas zu unterstützen, selbst wenn ich keinen 3D Drucker besitze oder gerade deswegen =) die Zylinder sollten 30mm im Durchmesser und eine höhe auch von 30mm haben. Infill so wie in den Video gezeigt/ verwendet. Ach und in der mitt eventuell ein 5mm Loch hindurch Bitte Antworte mir auf den Kommentar wenn Du Interesse hast, dann schreib ich Dir eine Mail nochmal =)
Hi! Maybe you can test and review Facilan C8 and HT? Quite interesting materials out there :D I am glad that I found your channel, a lot of interesting stuff.
@@henrymach I am also wondering what the thermal properties are. Of course for lower temperatures (below 100c). Then you could incapsulate the soft foam part into harder parts depending on the print temperatures.
I’ve been using Varioshore TPU for a bunch of projects. It’s an amazing material, love the soft touch feel. Stringing / oozing is definitely a pain compared to other flexible filaments.
I bought some of this about a month ago and havent gotten to use it because I wasnt ready to do a bunch of testing. Thanks for doing all the work for us and recording the whole process!!! Hahaha
Good job Stefan as usual ;). This material is the best that we have found to build the big tundra wheels for our next rc bush plane project, not only because it is light but also because its softness provides a great shock absorption which is ideal to absorb the energy of hard landing.
Can you "post expand" the fillament? Eg: use a heat gun or soldering iron or oven to expand the TPU only in spot locations after the object has been printed?
I doubt it because the plastic melts at a lower temp than the foaming, so to prevent the structure of the part from being ruined you would need to enclose it but then there'd be nowhere for the gasses caused by foaming to go.
See's Maker Muse's video on the CR-30. See's this... and the portion on "does it act like a sponge" and my first thought is "why do I want to print a pool noodle?" Glad that of all the channels that looked into Varishore and LW-PLA, it was this one. Better then "hey, it's pretty cool. Look at this model!" and to have actual methods and data behind the tests.
I've had reasonably good success making two-part designs with a PLA base, a filament change to TPU, and finishing with the TPU. I've also used PETG - in that case, I had to change filament at a point in the model where I could maximize the contact between PETG layer and TPU layers above it. While changing the filament, the temperature has to be lowered quickly for the TPU or else it is very stringy. Some custom gcode similar to that used in temperature towers was sufficient but I still had to wait before inserting the TPU so that the printer didn't resume printing until the nozzle temperature was lower. Not an ideal way to go, but the parts worked OK.
That is BRILLIANT! I was looking for some way of doing a 3D print with one end harder (for mounting) and the other softer (for application.) Now I can simply print each end at different temperatures.
It's a shame Mitutoyo only let you borrow those hardness testers. :P Although, I can understand why- guessing just one of those probably cost more than most of your printers. haha
I was curious about their prices and there's some for 400€ so less expensive than expected but tbh there's also some over 800, and I have no idea what the difference is. Edit one of the ones used in the video is 487€ and the other is 838
@@CNCKitchen While I'm not sure these, or any other tools are really made for it, I'd be SUPER interested in creep testing on various materials. It's one property that has actually caused me problems with functional prints.
Higher temps will not increase bubble formation, but it does reduce surface tension, allowing more air to escape and off gas. Therefore, if you print too hot, it becomes less foamy.
Mitutoyo is probably disappointed you didn't use a firm surface to begin testing with. But since your cutting mat was used for everything it's acceptable.
Hello Stefan, It is very interesting. TPU material is hyperelastic material which is non-compressible when it is in this bulk form. This property is obviously lost when add air bubbles inside. It could be very interesting to use tour universal tensile machine to investigate this ! If one thinks in term of small strains (and not finite strains) it means that it is not only the shore value (and thus the apparent modulus) but also the value of the "Poisson coefficient" even if this is improper in finite strains. So the applications could vary as incompressibility is often and advantage or a drawback. I think it could be nice to investigate ! I hope I will find some time to investigate tensile test on this ! Best regards,
That's crazy how it foams up with different temperatures! I've been experimenting with printing TPU in vase mode with some great results, most useful print was some transparent TPU grips for a mini desk vice, printed on-end. I figured if you make the object 0.8mm thick then it can be printed entirely in vase mode.
abrasion resistance and strength are going to be the two big downsides of this vs regular tpu of the same softness, and would have been good to compare.
I'm wondering if you're onto something with the bubbles deflating with the hotter temps - but I would say it's probably on the external surfaces of the filament, because I run production parts with ~1-1.2mm widths and they get softer right up to about 245c - so maybe the extra volume vs surface area plays a part there - maybe try it on a larger nozzle and see if you fair the same. And yes, definately a closed cell foam, I've used it for outdoor/wet applications for 12 months or so, no problems.
Since the hardness varies so much in 10 degree increments, it would be neat to see what the effect would be if you did 1-2 degree increments between 210 and 230 C.
I wonder how fine you can control the temperature in reality, of course software might show you even 0.1ºc if configured for such, but I'm sure during the print time it's varying about 2~4ºc up and down constantly.
Super interesting! I've been able to print original NinjaFlex, which is 85A, on my CR-6 SE, but need to obviously go incredibly slow (15-20 mm/s), and need to completely disable retractions. Intrigued to give varioShore a try based on this, as it could theoretically give even softer results but be easier to print. Thanks for taking the time to do proper testing and publishing the numbers, incredibly helpful.
Do you have any experiences using resin 3D printers and flexible resins to print tyres? I have seen some good looking samples, but have not yet printed any. Still looking for good info on flexible resins. I have had good experiences on using clear resin for small clear parts ie. headlight lenses etc.
@@blubb7711 Thank you for quick reply. I have read the same, but I have found the flexible resins hard to get and expensive. It does not help to live in one of northest and maybe the worst shithole countrys in europe. Maybe I have to buy 1kg of flex resin for christmas and try it. I found some with 55A shore hardness, but I can't find any info about the surface friction. Edit: I have to add that I do love the details my new DLP 3D priter makes. FDM can not compete with it. It could easily print text to the tyre wall etc. I have made some nice rims, but have to wait for summer, or at least the pandemic to ease up to go to the track and test how will they last. The resin prints seem to be some what more fragile than the PETG and PLA I usually use to print with.
@@blubb7711 Easy solution is to print a mold and then cast your tires. You can even add locking features to the hub and cast with the hub in place for stronger adhesion.
I've been fooling around with loose infill patterns to make ordinary PLA quite "spongey". Just varying the different degree offsets on Cura's "zig zag" to something like 0,60,120,30,90,150 leaves you with a mesh that doesn't overlap with itself very much. It also makes the material blob and then string at crossover points, which seems to make it even more pliable. It looks like lace.
Interesting material. :) Well, whether you got a direct extruder (please, dont' mix up with "direct drive" !) or a bowden extruder, I guess it should print if the filament path is constrained all the way. Something "special" about this filament is the relationship between extrusion temperature, extrusion multiplier, and final surface look. Number of print profiles can be pretty daunting. This material is so special you shall have very specific demands to use it. If something has to float, it's the way to go, though.
Schande über mein Haupt ... ich hab den Tip mit dem Infill beim ersten schauen überhört 🙈 Aber wie immer ein super informatives Video, mach bitte weiter so. Danke!
As a fan of Colorfabb, unfortunately, I had to abandon them since they have restricted their shipping to DHL which means that a single roll of filament + shipping costs me around $70. Switched to Esun recently since I simply can't go with ColorFabb anymore. On-topic, awesome breakdown Stefan!
That indeed looks promising, especially the buoyancy. Guess I'll get me a roll of that stuff and then let's see what kind of stuff I can come up with that I could use for e.g. kayaking. I also wonder if you could use it for applications where you'd normally use rubber, like a holder that slightly grips on to things like e.g. guitar picks. Pretty interesting, indeed! Thanks to checking it out in your usual, very thorough way
Would you make review of colorfabb brand new LW-ASA, and compare to LW-PLA? I m curious, if RC models printed with LW-ASA will become more impact resistant. What are benefits of each ?
LW-ASA is more brittle in an Impact, there is a video on youtube were a guy compared to 3d prints in LW-PLA and LW-ASA. The LW-ASA shattered as it was glass, the big benefit is UV resistant and temp resistant.
Fantastic video! Stefan makes super videos all the time but this video had to be made by colorfabb year ago... most of the filament manufacturers just push out a new product without giving enough information sometimes they forget to provide proper data on how to use the product.
It would have been very interesting to see the shore hardness of the infill samples but printed with the TPU at its maximum foaming. It would have let us see how low the varioshore TPU can go.
I had the first layers of this material crumble apart after I didn't purge the nozzle properly. So that's why I think that TPU and PLA don't combine very well.
I've seen some videos regarding this and it doesn't look too promising. I don't know if I'm allowed to share URL:s but search YT for "Robotic Flex Gripper Mixed TPU and ABS 3d printed" to see some tests combining harder plastic and TPU. There are some successful tests (soda can holder for instance). I hope Stefan can do his thorough tests on the subject, maybe print some "grabbing, interlocking layers" when changing from one material to the other will help? I haven't got a 3D printer yet but hoping for a Prusa i3 Mk3 with the MultiMaterial addon soon. I am curious if you can print PLA/ABS with the TPU in T-slots (like the grooves on milling machine tables) so the TPU doesn't have to adhere to the harder material but still can't fall out even if you turn the object upside down? My thought is to get a non-slip surface on serving trays and such by letting the TPU sit just slightly higher than the surface. I'm sure this, or other "interlocking layers" version, is tested somewhere, but I haven't found it yet. BTW: Great videos Stefan! You are one of my fave sources to learn 3D-printing! Stay Safe, Healthy, and Happy folks!
A silly question, perhaps, but would the ~60 Shore D of your cutting mat have affected the measured results of the test pieces? Shouldn't they have been tested on a hard surface?
Stefan, another amazing review. How do you print multiple models at different temperatures? I understand how to change temperatures at height/layer. Do you pause at height/layer, manually adjust the nozzle temp, then resume? Or is this a custom script? I apologize if this has been asked and answered already.
could one use variable softness within a print to create improved sound-dampener-thingies since the different densities would absorb different frequencies - I'd assume. For example 3d printed acoustic panels or speaker stands Or feet for a 3d printer
But if you squeeze the print underwater, will it absorb water? Even if the bubbles are separate they must be able to absorb water because the bubbles open up to release the air when the print is pressed.
Well... (normal) TPU prints fine on bowdens as long as the settings are correct. Addition: I have an idea for a new material test. What about torque load? Maybe load the parts and apply torque until they break.
