I LOVE the little 3D case. very time I do an RPI project, I have to struggle to fit on of those displays on or in the RPI case. No-one seems to have twigged to how useful these displays are. Developing from your comments, I usuall put the time, temperature, IP address and hostname on the 4 line display. Having it just click into a case with the RPI would be lovely.
C'est vraiment un super projet ! Simple, efficace et très bien expliqué. Merci pour toute cette énergie et le partage que tu en fais. Respect de la Belgique ! It' s à real cool project! Simple, efficient and complete.Thank you for the energy that you give and for sharing it with us! Big up trop Belgium !
This is a great little project. I am thinking I might have to make one of these :). It's just hard to get parts if you need to get them from overseas at the moment. Quite a lot of countries have closed down as far as sending and receiving packages and China is still very slow.....
Yes, that's a real problem right now :-( The PCBs for the "Pro" version of this project (which will be probably part 4 of the series) have been sitting in Hong Kong for 8 days now because DHL don't have enough flights to keep everything moving.
Very nice project, following along with the PMS7003 sensor I picked up recently. At present, using ESPHome, but I don't believe it has any ability to put the sensor into standby mode. The MTBF of the sensor seems like something you could bump into -- too bad it needs a little fan. You might also consider PlatfromIO rather than Arduino IDE for this stuff. I find that I don't miss the profanity that comes along when I had to use the crummy editor inside the Arduino IDE. Now, using PlatformIO and Visual Studio Code, you get a great experience.
Try ESPEasy? It has support for the sensor, display and MQTT. The sleep mode can be triggered using simple scripts you can enter from the web interface. I've done this myself couple of years ago.
From the datasheet looks like you connect a GPIO to pin 10 of the PMS7003 and set it to OUTPUT mode and set it to HIGH for the device to be on and LOW for the device to turn off.
Great video, just wished if you can do similar with Raspberry pi 4 or pi zero w. Even with ESP32 would have been very beneficial as they are very commonly used. Never the less loved it and will do some tinkering to work with ESP 32 if not RPI.
It's a friction fit over the PMS5003 sensor. Just squeeze it closed and it stays there. If that doesn't work well enough, a patch of double sided tape on the inside would do.
Jonathan have you manufactured any more of your CAT-6 Ethernet light switches, has any company made them commercially available yet, I'm over my z-wave switches, are you located in Qld or Vic?
Thanks for letting us in on your work with the PMS5003. Your project videos are very informative and easy to watch. I've been looking at some work on this device at www.letscontrolit.com using ESPEasy which is also interesting. I want to avoid compiling code but I'd like the sensor to sleep when I'm not in my workshop by using a node-red flow. Can you confirm I just need to pull SET low for sleep mode and high for active? If that's the case I imagine I can do that with standard Tasmota. Thanks.
Hi, Have you find out what is the reason of wrong data of particles amount? Long time I was using my own firmware for ESP32-PMS7003, but today just for fun I've tested Tasmota. While I have been looking for a way to make PMS go to sleep I discovered that all measurements are different - all PM values are slightly more than usual and, moreover, all data from particles counters are stable. Then I've found a command and sent it to Tasmota and after reboot I faced with the same problem as in my firmware and yours. Then I canceled sleep mode, and everything started to work fine. I just shared my observation. May be it might help you or followers to find out how to deal with it. Personally, I think that I will try to modify supply line of PMS to control it's sleep in this way.
Hi, Thanks for the project with the display. I will want to order a case once international post is possible, to Spain, thanks. So how did it go? Well apart from a couple of “I know what I am doing so I did not pay full attention” mistakes it is working. I told the IDE the wrong board, yes you had it correct and when I did it had the correct pins to talk to the sensor! I also did my own thing when it came to the PMS files which was fun and time consuming, much simpler downloading the zip! Your 3D printer and mine sort of disagree with the exact sizing or the board and so mine was not quite so good, the sensor fitted tight, the switch and board needed some Dremel mods and now they fit (ish). My bigger problem was the display and despite your warnings to be cautious, I damaged my first one and out comes the Dremel to allow the second one to work. My MQTT server has user and password so I looked into that and added the data in the main file. (Now I have viewed the 3rd video I am feeling a little guilty, happy it worked but oops!) I used some very thin wire so was able to add the earth wires all to the single earth pad on the ESP board and of course, being thin they feed into the groves in the case really well. Thank you, again, for a great little project and insight as to how you put it all together.
Great projekt, I am waiting for the particle module to arrive. I am a bit concerned about all the wires crossing the antenne, I dont think this is good practice.
The wires crossing the antenna will not be any issue at all with these sort of projects. This is a DIY Home project, not something commercial. With that said, have a look inside any residential router and you will find antenna wires crossing all sorts of traces. You will find the same in most laptops also. It is not anything to be concerned about. There is no high power RF involved in this. It is 2.4GHz WiFi.
@@EsotericArctos I doubt that commercial routers doesn't take very much care of making antennas and HF wiring serious. The cables to the antenna is shielded cable special designed for HF. But you are right, it will properly work, but the distance to the access point will be reduced. Making the antenna (located at the edge of the PCB) free of all cables will improve the range.
@@jenskaa4044 Unless you absolutely fluke the wiring length and manage to get the resonant frequency of the 2.4GHz, the range won't be affected greatly. There is no significant voltage. We are not dealing with HF transmission in the kilowatt region. This is WiFi to connect to a router with a maximum power of less than 20dbm. 🙂. I understand antenna resonance and the like, but in the case of the ESP8266 the range difference with wiring across the trace is not measurable in real world testing I have performed. Sorry for the edits. I realised the first version didn't come across very well
@@EsotericArctos I am not sure you understand antenna and high frequencies, I think you should do some more reading on the subject. Making a PCB antenna is not a simple thing, both length, shape and the material (glassfiber etc) has influence on the performance of antenna. All object nearby the antenna will have influence. Even the material of the plastic used for the case will influence. If you have the equipment (eg. a vector analyzer) you can try different material nearby the antenna to see it for your self. When using low power its actually more relevant to make good antennas to avoid losses. In the quality sensor project I would have turned the 8266 so the antenna is free of all the wires, this could improve the radio part some %
@@jenskaa4044 Well you can doubt all you want, but that doesn't change the fact that majority of "commercial devices" don't care about their performance as long as they work and are sellable. There are tons of examples of this like the air bag companies that are killing people & knew about it for 20 years, bad brake systems, etc. You clearly haven't checked out most home routers and how terrible they are, the access points are insanely bad. Not to mention majority of routers offer "gigabit" however they don't have hardware offloading for NAT and have crap processors and thus can barely break past 300mbps. These are the "gigabit" devices we were given for 20 years. Only the last 3 years have we seen mainstream routers actually put out performance devices since ISPs are actually offering gigabit now. Unless you know FOR A FACT a company is designing something for peak efficiency for you don't you ever assume a commercial entity cares about you or performance. They want money.
First of all thanks for the video(s), I enjoy the way you are learning us stuff in an understandable way! I have build one of the previous ones (and will probably upgrade it to this one...;) ), But I am having trouble getting it to report it's reading to openHAB. I connected an LED to the board and got that to work through MQTT. Now I must say I am completely new to openHAB or any home automation package (yesterday I have installed it for the first time) and can't code or program (ok, maybe a little bit, but only simple relays with an Arduino) so the first question is, will you (or have you already) make a video about how to make the readings appear in openHAB and then preferably in the paper ui as it doesn't need any coding. And if not what's your recommendation to go to if I want to learn more about connecting tasmota projects to openHAB?
I'm going to cover more of the software and reporting in parts 3 and 4, but what you're asking are fairly large questions so it's not really practical to use RU-vid comments to discuss it! The best thing would be to jump on the SuperHouse Discord or Forum, and put the same question in there. It's much easier to interact that way.
Have you run across any 303Mhz transmitter/receivers that will work on an esp8266. I have several remotes for ceiling fans that all operate on 303Mhz that I want to add to my project. I bought a new fan controller on amazon that said it was 433Mhz but when I got it it was actually 303Mhz. I can not seem to find any 303Mhz devices for esp/arduino anywhere.
