Surf Tip "Surfboard Talk" With Rusty to Help You Surf Better 

Excellent post… thanks for sharing

I'm watching Mason and Coco's Electric Acid surfboard test and they kind answered the question for me. They were testing the ALBUM SURF Plasmic model, which Coco loved and Mason struggled with. He said he kept putting too much weight on his front foot and the board's tail just lifted and lost drive. But it he put the weight back it responded well. Asher Pacey surfs so hard off his back foot and Mason I can see drives a lot off the front foot. Of course they both rip, but I can see the difference now. They provide a pretty clear example. At the end Coco made a simple comment, it's suited for a back footed surfer.

I feel the same way and I’m a right handed goofy

One of my main problems surfing in NJ is the wave is short I have a problem getting my back foot on the best part of the pad. Any suggestions

Maybe in another episode… I like to cover one thing at a time.

Are you referring to rocker?

@@albinochewie543 no its the plan outline shape. I.e From the tail to the midpoint or the midpoint forward to the nose is it more curved outline. Think high performance shortboard. Or more straighter rails that gently curve to the nose have more foam and so a generally a more fuller outline. Great paddling but harder to turn as more foam forward of front foot can bog in turns or not fit the shape of a wave. Think Retro Fish shape.

Good on you… we all need to learn how to adjust to different sleds. It makes us all better surfers.

My understanding is the vee allows to go tip from rail to rail easier. The rocker is helpful in maneuverability and arc or radius with the turns, however higher rocker boards must be surfed on rail otherwise they decelerate if you surf flat. The differences in the 2 designs you are mentioning are really how they are designed for different conditions, hollow powerful waves have more rocker for maneuverability and narrower tail block for more hold. Wider flatter tail block with vee and lower rocker is useful in a grovel board for generating speed in weaker 1-3ft conditions while still allowing you to surf on rail.

@@chopsnz88 thanks Phil, so crazy how complicated this stuff gets lol.

@@chopsnz88 what do you think about happy every day for 6 fit beach brake?

Sorry I have not seen it

I suggest less volume… go up roughly 1L from your HPSB

Yes

@@surfnshowreviews7777 i mean.can you recommend boards that good for front foot surfers?

@@soulsurfer3102 Sub Driver 2.0, Fishbeard, Rocket Wide Swallow Tail, Happy Everyday, my new Deuce Twin Fin by Rusty.

No sorry

you're right-handed at everything, for example, kicking a ball, and surfing you're goofy. The probability of driving the board with your front foot is very high ;) but the best thing is to show a video of you surfing to your shaper, if you don't have videos, filming yourself on a surfskate also helps to understand.

Get some video of yourself surfing or riding your surf skate and it will be easier to see where you favor driving the surfboard for speed. On a surf skate I find it easier to identify when you get going fast and hit a turn…. If the tail slides out a bit and you don’t want it too then your weight is forward and you are driving the Surfskate more from your front foot.

@@surfnshowreviews7777 maybe a dumb question but would it be possible to be a front footed surfer forehand but a back footed surfer backhand? Or vice versa?? Thanks Noel another great vid 🤙

@@mufflaps That’s a great question. I think it’s easier to be more back footed on your backside. We sit down more backside to get the board to the board on rail due to body position. I find it a lot easier for me to drive through bottom turns backside as I sit down and surf the board off the tail compared to frontside.

Surfboards are meant to be controlled and turned predominantly from the tail. That’s where the fins are, and the fins provide slip resistance, and control. You can lean on the center of the board and turn, but it will not have as dramatic of an effect as if you lean on the tail. Riding in the center or wide point of the board will provide speed because it’s usually the flattest in terms of rocker, and will trim better, and cause less drag. To effectively surf to the full potential of a board, you have to be able to shift your weight freely, from center to rear and back again, when situation requires. Often, when someone has a weight shifting problem, it’s best to grab a longboard to exaggerate the effect, and learn to shift and trim, then go back to the short board. I believe that most surfers who are a “back footed” or “front footed” surfer, have not completely grasped the concept of shifting and movement, and have probably developed bad habits from the start, and their whole style is created to compensate for that inability. It’s also very possible that most front footed surfers learned to surf a certain stance, when they really should have learned to pop up switch, with their dominant foot at the tail. It’s like shooting a rifle from your right shoulder, when you’re actually left eye dominant.

Sounds to me that you favor your back foot if your surfing the NB2 and it feels tight and hard to drift the tail in bigger waves. I suggest a video too but the NB2 is cam be a bit harder to control in bigger surf for heavily front footed surfers

@@surfnshowreviews7777 thanks Noel. Mind my ignorance, when looking at the video what do I look for that will indicate which foot is preferred?

@@terenceingram7786 If you look like your surfing with most of your weight forward. If you jump on a surf skate it will tell you pretty quick. Just start pumping and when you get some seed fast hit a hard rail turn… if your back wheels slide or feel like they are going too then your weight is forward.

@@surfnshowreviews7777 I'll try that today on my surfskate, but from experience I never slide the tail out on a big turn on it unless I try to.

LOL yeah you could say that.

I think Nole wanted to talk too much instead of listening so looked like he got bit over it.

Yeah by the end of the clip it looked he was reading emails and tuning out….

Yeah I remember Rusty from the beginning at La Jolla Shores I'm a huge NS fan but we used to practically worship Rusty. When he talks we listen. But I have to admit I have the exact same problem. I talked when I should be listening. It was hard for me cuz Rusty even before he left Canyon was super cool and fun but at the same time revered. Still the best surfboard show for me.

@@izandevainmyheart1129 Yes I'm also a fan of his show and I'm sure he didn't disrespect but was just his excitement and enthusiasm that got in the way a bit of a good bit of sharing by Rusty it seemed, which we all can do at times.

Thanks for the comments… Rusty was looking as his Computer to talk board design and answer my questions. However… our community would not be able to see his computer screen to see what he was looking at to get understanding

This interview was over 40 minutes long in real time and I cut it way down so our community stays engaged and get the high level points to what Rusty said concerning this topic.

Completely disagree. Noel did a great job trying to obtain information from someone not easily forthcoming with information and was using techniques (making specific statements) to illicit a response that we would not have otherwise got a viewpoint on. Compare this to the Brit Merrick interviews for example. Well done Noel, looked like hard work.

Rusty was clearly ready for the interview to be over. I don't blame the guy. It's hard to keep up the passion for decades. Does he still even surf?

@@szacharym Rusty was very generous with his time and I was stoked to learn from him. I rarely get feedback from the shapers after our interviews but this is the text I got from Rusty… “I thought it came out great! Is it on You Tube yet? I really enjoyed the experience!” I do these episodes for all of us to learn and I can handle constructive criticism. I will consider all of these comments next time go around. Cheers!!