"If you reading this you are an absolute legend". How about "IF YOU ARE FILMING THIS AND CATCHING AWESOME BARRELS YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE LEGEND". Thank you for posting!! This film is the best I have seen on Canadian Surfing thus far. Your surfing is like artwork. The fact that you can do it that well with a 5/4 or 6/5 wetsuit is super impressive! Great wave riding, and great surf etiquette as well (noticed the head movement on the camera). A lot of fun to watch. Likely will be rewatching this over and over again!
The gratitude I feel from reading your comment is beyond words. It means so much to be able to capture and share these sessions and visions from the water in this unique corner of the world. Thank you so much! 🙏
Nonetheless we were so frothed after watching you catch that one. I went sprinting for my gear right after that haha. Can't wait to share some more pumping sessions this season! 🙏💣
That is wild. I use to surf northern California in the 80's and there was not much surfing there like southern California. Watching people surf Canada and Alaska is just amazing! 😅 Orca territory.
Gopro definitely isn't doing that wave justice! Such a heavy spot and I only surfed it when it was head high, can't imagine the power with this swell. Nice work documenting it, mad respect to you and these local chargers 🤙
Thank you so much Tim! The colors and textures on those stormy days make it a whole other world! My usual red board is a 5'10 squash tail and has very balanced amount on foam and rocker for every day conditions, whereas this board is a 6'6 pin tail with a little extra foam for maximum paddle power and hold in powerful conditions. It is much less maneuverable for turns but gives you the confidence and stability you need when the waves are big.
Vibram makes a special compound rubber replacement shoe sole called “MegaGrip” that provides extreme grip on wet slippery rock. I chose the one with the skull pattern as it was the smoothest overall pattern.
That's actually a great idea. Wish the wetsuit companies would take that into consideration as i've always been a big fan of a more textured boot sole for surfing out here. I guess they keep them really thin and supple for the majority of surfers that are buying them that want the bare foot feeling, but also don't have to do much walking on sharp slippery rocks.
I took a really close look at that moment and I didn’t see anything. It could have just been some turbulence from my hands when I was situating myself before I started paddling?
I thought Cape Town waters are pretty cool,arctic almost at some spots...but this place needs a little bit of snow to finish this scenario off🥶🥶Lekka waves though..😂😂
Cheers! I've been dreaming of making it down to your neck of the woods for a while! Typically we see a few snowy days in the winter but this year it has been unusually warm.
Those slippery rocks are no joke for anyone who doesn't know they're like a combination between ice slippery and slime. Its a pain in the ass you're trying to grip with your every muscle in your foot and stubbing your toes every step, worrying about not seriously slamming your board when you fall etc just not fun. 😅
Maybe next time. The deeper you go the shallower it is and some of the barrels the pros were getting were almost dry. A couple of pretty gnarly injuries happened this day.
Mate, nice Right!!! That’s a great looking wave. Heads up though - As a Maori Surfer - don’t go to New Zealand anytime with that Board. Having a Warrior Chiefs “Ta Moko” on it ( His facial Tattoo’s ), and this is real depiction; some Maori would most definitely take serious offense about a “Pakeha” ( Non-Maori ) having that emblazoned on a Board for all to see. Just a heads up Bro. I’d certainly confront you over it - so yeah, just a heads Bro. Stay wet!!!
Thank you so much bro! I genuinely appreciate your comment and the insight as I had no idea the significance of that symbol or the meaning behind it. It is a beautiful symbol and I know the shaper, Scott Rowley is from NZ but I can absolutely understand if it could be a cause of confrontation if someone like myself was over there with it on my board. I'm curious to know what your opinion is about me riding that board here in Canada and if it makes a difference if the symbol is culturally significant to the person who made the board?
@@tofinosurfphotographyKia Ora Bro. It’s a facial “take” of a Maori Chief. Scott, unless he’s Maori, should have known better to add this without first consulting an Elder.. It’s the same as having a board with “I’m Da Hui” and wearing black shorts at Pipe, and your skin colour is…..ah…..”on the lighter side” shall we say. The odds of getting out of the line-ip without a fat lip and a board in two pieces is…….so so. If Scott is a Pakeha, he should have known better. If he is Maori - yeah, it’s fine to shape a board and bang that on it, but giving it to someone else - who isn’t Maori, ahhhhhh yeah…..that’s not a good idea. My advice is….If…..and I mean If, someone ever says something, your reply is “I was gifted this by a Kiwi Surfer, and have looked after this since then. I am honoured to have been gifted this….” Surf it, have fun but just be aware bro. I was in a Mall in SoCal ( use to live there ) and this Shop was selling the exact same “Ta Moko” as transfers. Within a Week, they had been removed - so yeah,Kiwi’s are everywhere. I use to live in Castlegar BC……hahahaha….before moving to Ed’ over in AB, and then to Wainwright near the Sask Border - so yeah, we Kiwis get around Bro - hahahahahahaha.
While I enjoyed your video here and thanks for posting it, the words "massive" and "historic" in your title seem a bit much, given the number of times I've seen surf this big or better on Southern Vancouver Island. When did 8' become "massive"? Take care.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it and I can appreciate your comment. I feel like in this case it might be a matter of perspective. With every video, photo and article about surfing that claims "biggest, most perfect, historic" etc there is always going to be debate, and there will always be folks with different perspectives, whether the waves are 8 feet or 80 feet. Maybe you have seen bigger and better days in your lifetime and if you have I genuine respect for you for putting in the time and hard work, and being in the right time and place. My videos and photos are from my perspective and I have rarely experienced a day quite like this in Canada.
Is t the area notorious for white sharks? I’ve been cage diving in SF, Cal and I’m pretty sure when I went to Vancouver there were just as many adverts to go cage diving with whites?
There is great whites around in this part of the Pacific, but so far they haven't really been an issue for surfers. I've never heard of shark cage diving being a thing up here, but maybe they just like sticking to the deeper waters or they don't like their meals being wrapped up in this much neoprene.
Sick footage Keenan, really gives a great feel for what it's like surfing out there on a great day with all the local lads out. Love the stoke! I can tell your cardio is next level.
Much appreciated! So stoked to be able to convey the feeling, and the cardio comes naturally after a few sessions out here with all the duck dives haha.
Cheers! The water is cold, but not too bad (for Canada) at 10°C. Usually it's a fair bit colder but this winter has been warmer than normal. It's the wind that gets the most chilly 🥶
They are definitely around up here but have never really been an issue for surfers. I guess maybe they like the deeper waters. I'd be more worried about Orcas making an appearance out here.
Bro, pro tip (had no idea, learn with an older surfer) every time you carry your board on the rocks flip it the other way (fins pointing 'outside') because when you fall you don't damage the 2, both board and fins.
Thank you! I have a string with one end tied to the camera and the other end attached to my suit. It's a big pain in the butt when the string gets in the way but better than losing it. I used the floaty case before but not anymore. Risking it for the biscuit haha.
Ah well, thank you for taking the time to click on this video and leave a comment anyways. There seems to be a few other folks out there that enjoy it, so I will keep on making them until I can afford to pay a filmer.
