I was driving mine the other day (30mph) on the street and the front (2 pc) driveshaft popped off the yoke where it connects to the front side of the transfer case. I don’t know if the ujoints just gave out or if the U bolt/strap was loose to begin with. Definitely something to check on any going forward! Good video, thank you for posting!
One tip for anyone that does their own humvee work: on the cross member you can install a few washers/spacers where it bolts to the frame and where the isolator bolts to the cross member to lower it just enough to allow for the trans pan to be removed while the cross member stays in place. Great video tho.
Another great video!....My tick turned into a knock after new lifters and heads...ran it a bit and soon it was knocking away!!..metal flakes in the oil, so that was the last straw!! New engine arrived and now reassembly begins...what an adventure!
Thank you for the positive comment on my video. Sorry to hear of your engine issues. I've got my fingers crossed when it comes to getting mine started and up and running.
I’ve been putting off dropping the trans pan on my A2 truck and doing the fluid & filter change due to uncertainty with all the conflicting information out there. Great video! I feel comfortable moving forward to do it after watching.
That's the feeling I had too, in that the information available wasn't complete or that the manual didn't cover everything. One thing I was told (after having already done the video) was that by moving the shifter from Park it might be possible to get that bracket out of the way in order to drop the transmission pan without having to disconnect the front driveshaft from the transfer case. It might be worth a try to see if that works. Best of luck.
@@Dans_Garage Yes, to get the rearmost bolts out of the pan and to have the room to slide the pan out the crossmember does still need to come out, confirmed also by the 2002 H1 Service Manual (PN 05745159).
Thank you for pointing this out. That means that the wrong filter was in it when I received it from auction. Since the new one matched the old one I didn't think much of it at the time. It looks like I'll be doing this again.
That was easier than I thought it would be. I did a transmission service on my 95 Range Rover classic and I had to use a hydraulic spreader on the frame rails to get the cross member out THEN drop the exhaust from the cats back. After that Ihad clearance to drop the trans pan.......4 hours later.
I actually had to the pan off all over again as the internal wiring harness of the 4L80E started to leak ATF through the connector itself. I did learn that by moving the shifter out of park it was possible to get the pan down without having to undo the front driveshaft from the transfer case, so that sped up the process.
@@midnightmachineshop Great info! Im toying with the idea of buying a later year Humvee so Im doing as much research as possible. So far most everything looks doable for a shade tree guy like me. Great content, appreciate it.
While there are some odd things about it and there have been some changes since it first came out (such as the electronically controlled 4L80E transmission replacing the TH400 3-speed), it's a vehicle that was designed to be maintained by people just out of High School using just basic hand tools. If you do decide to get one, you'll do fine.
@@midnightmachineshop Thank you. Thats kinda what Im observing but didnt want to be too boisterous. All the videos you are making RE maintenance are straight forward.
That was an absolutely invaluable video. Thank you so much Can I ask, is there a filling procedure for the transmission or just put the full amount of dexron 3 straight in and check the level?
TM 9-2320-280-10, Pages 2-77 and G-16 has the procedure for checking the level once the engine is running. I believe I put in a little over 7 quarts then topped it off once I had the engine up and running.
