When I’m transferring bench marks to other locations I cut a lot 12” pieces of an old tape measure and use it to set my new line on the foresight. That helps to read the exact dimension to my HI. Pretty handy. God content.
You forgot to add, after placing the target, going back to the level to make sure you positioned it properly. I'll also mention that a method of getting that last thou or two can be to turn your leveling screws all in the same direction a quarter or half turn or something to use them to slightly lift and lower the instrument.
@@bwhog I actually want to create a video for setting a target card without bucking in, just transferring marks and measuring up or down from the level line. I’ll be sure to show the whole process there. Regarding the 1/4 turn that works, I prefer to use the tripod to raise lower and the screws to level. There are definitely areas where someone else (or several someone elses) have a great method. In that case, I say whatever works, or better yet, whichever is fastest. Thanks for the great comments!
@@wesalnawabi5775 I love the recommendation of an animation, great idea. You will actually see animated segments in many of my future videos.. this is one of my oldest, don’t be too hard on me ;). Fortunately, many of the other viewers and commenters seemed to have gotten the gist. I’d also like to post up a video on simply setting an elevated line or target. More (and better) to come!
Can anyone help understand the process of establishing the scribe line on the foresight? How do you look through the scope and make a scribe at the target, I didn't understand.
Without an assistant you would need to reference your initial mark to some kind of mark/scratch etc on the wall, go back to the instrument and see how close you are, go back to the wall and adjust your mark.. repeat until it lines up. Do this again for the second point and then scribe a line between the two.
Depending on the construction of your builders level, the leveling component is floating on a system of springs. It used to be quite easy for the springs to become lightly bound up, especially if you carried the level over your shoulder. Tapping once the level is relatively level causes all 4 springs to lightly flex and generally resolved any binding. If you looked through your telescope you’d see your level line lightly bounce and level out again. Lots of folks (to be quite honest) skip this step, and some don’t even turn the level 90 degrees and check level. In most cases, neither of these items are a huge deal- but if spending an extra 5 seconds help you be as close to perfect as possible- its well worth it to me. That’s why I choose to include both in this video.
Good explanation. Im my own experience, the turning 90 and tapping are not a "if you don't do it=you know that you'll get worse measurements" but a "if you don't= you MIGHT get worse measuremens" sort of deal. Always better safe than sorry though. The one time you don't do it will be the time it screws you.
I want someone to show a practical exhibition and explanation how to setup a level over an existing point. I have searched high and low for one good example and found none. I know that most levels do not have the optical plummet, but there must be a standard way of getting this right.
@@leansurvey8212 Okay, I will try to be more clear. What I see most is people just set the instrument (the level) up randomly but not over a certain point and that's fine if you don't need to be over a point. I think most people completely omit showing setting up over a point because it is so hard to do with just a plumb bob under it. Some of us do not own the more expensive units with the optical plummets. So I would just like to see how a pro would do this using a lower cost instrument. Say you might need to setup over a nail in a hub and turn some 90 degree angles but all you have is a tool with the plumb bob, I find that hard to do so I must be doing something wrong. Just looking for a better method for doing this so I can practice it. Your videos are great.
@@armorvestrus4119 I understand what process you’re asking about, I’m asking when you would use that method in it with. Often when transferring elevations you come off of a point with the rod to get an elevation at the level. Since there is no ‘measure up’ mark on the level, you can’t really setup over a point and measure up to start performing level work. Are you setting up over a point to create accurate distance measurements with the stadia lines?
@@leansurvey8212 Again I messed up my example. I know with the automatic level a point directly under it is not the main subject. So maybe I should have said, a Transit for locating other points like nails in a peg. Regardless I finally worked out a method to bring the plum bob quickly over the point and it worked great. To my credit no one taught me I just figured it out and than put it to the test. I still haven't seen it done this way by anyone on You Tube. Now I have the option to set up a transit or a automatic level over a point if I need to. I just wanted to cut some corners and let a Pro show me how, but now I know.
Great content. I like how you break it down. Every step is explained for how and why. Closing the loop, for example, now that makes complete sense. Looking forward to the next video!
I understand the bucking in to established BM. But are you measuring up from the floor to FF elevation to set the FS BM? I'm going to be setting wall BM's alone on high rise.
