For anyone skimming through the comments... here's my current set up for someone who's 6'2" and 180 lbs. Hope this helps someone get on the right track. Front Preload (0-10): 4 Rebound (0-14): 9 Rear Compression/Preload (0-20): 8 Rebound (0-18): 10
You are the same weight as me and I'm amazed you find the stock Talaria rear shock sufficient. I bottom mine out almost every time I use the bike, and as mine is an adapted road legal TL45 I've broken the number plate on the road and just now the plastic thing it fits to. :-(. I'm wondering if you might have any advice? How comes yours is OK for you? I've already would the spring up a fair bit to try and sort out the problem.
WoW school is out for summer. And proFessor Josh runs a suspension class, thanks again for all the TIP & tricks for us late to the party riders. Tomorrow at the crack of NooN I pull my MX4 in the house and dial this video up again. Starting at all midpoints 195 lbs and a short 6ft. Lets Ride!
Hey man, check under the right side 19mm hex cap for the air valve. Take the front wheel off first it’s easier to unscrew the cap. Under the cap is a Schraeder valve which inflates the damper side air bladder, these forks are actually a spring in oil fork. Spring is on left side w/preload adjustment and then the damper is on the right side. Think of the spring weight and preload as your initial/mid travel tuning and the air bladder as your mid/bottom tuning. You can get more into tuning by changing the wt of the fork oil but the air bladder lets us fine tune the amount of progression and bottom out resistance. It’s nice because it acts kind of like a progressive compression adjustment. My fork shipped at 85 psi from the factory which I felt was a little low so I bumped it up to 125 and the front end feels much better now. Luna said they recommend 100-125 depending on rider weight and how aggressively they ride. 👍🏼
Ah awesome! Okay I thought it was under that 19mm but it was super tight and I wanted to be sure before I loosened it. Thanks for writing that as well, very helpful! I’ll get a gauge on mine and see where it’s at. If I’m not mistaken isn’t the max recommended psi for this fork 150psi?
@@freerfixedit that’s what I thought as well, but I emailed Luna to double check and they said 100-125. You might be able to go up to 150 but I didn’t want to risk it at first.
@@spunkysandoval just to be totally clear. My comment is in regards to the latest Talaria Sting R with the updated factory fork purchased from Luna Cycles-not the factory fork you can buy aftermarket or on older stings. This new version doesn’t have a compression knob underneath the right leg (riders perspective) of the fork. Instead there’s a black 19mm hex that when unscrewed reveals an air valve that is used to fill up an air bladder in the damper. This lets you tune bottom out “compression”.
Just as one of the people said here already, you got the whole rebound thing wrong. The + means more rebound dampening and - means less. When you turn the rebound knob clockwise it pushes the rebound rod closer to the primary rebound oil channel thus making the channel smaller and restricting oil flow and in effect slowing down the rebound. This is how essentially rebound works on any fork...
Freer, I found out how to pump the Front shocks and rear shock. in the front remove the black hex bolts on the bottom of the forks, inside will be valve steam, use valve stem extenders to attach to pump, pump up to 150 PSI. the rear has it under the rear shock, idk if it nitrogen.
Thanks for the vid, much needed info for me. Unfortunately, I think I snapped the air out bolt on the left side of front fork. I was letting the air out, then tightening it and barely put any force into it and now the bolt is spinning freely. Is it a big deal? I think that it is still airtight
Could try putting some teflon plumbers tape on there to give it some more bite in the threads. I know it’s a tiny screw and will be a pain in the ass, it worth a shot. Or maybe some liquid gasket idk. As long as it’s air tight
Thanks! Appreciate you and glad I can help! If you ever have a ? Or need anything, don’t hesitate to reach out in the comments. I try to reply to everyone!
I have a ⁉️ question ⁉️ How to adjust seemingly crooked forks. I have the 2023 mx4 factory forks. Brand new only days old I believe my forks are off center to the right the ride doesn't feel stable hands off the bars and bike merges right fast 😨. To the eye its hard to tell. I'm running a wake adjustable stem for the moment, I do have a direct stem mount coming in the mail later today and that's going straight on. Hopefully that will fix the issue but if it doesn't and one of the fork tubes is off center or whatever I'm unsure how to figure which one and in what way.. Last night I loosen both crowns and did my best to straighten it out adjusted the stem it looks good rides a tiny bit better but still it's off. Sucks I can't really ride over 40mph 😅
That’s strange! I was gonna say see if the fork tubes are twisted slightly in the clamps but if you loosened the crowns and adjusted, they should be straight. Hopefully the direct mount stem helps! I just put mine on yesterday and I like it a lot
It’s the rebound adjuster. I go over my settings on the rear at 09:10 , it just adjusts how fast or slow your suspension recoils after being compressed
Luna sells an "upgraded" fork with a 50lb spring instead of the 30sonethjng that's in the stock fork. How does that change it? Does that seem like a good upgrade?
@@freerfixedit yeah it's a fast ace 2.0 but it has an option of a heavier spring. Comes with 30something unless you choose 50lb and there's a choice for 60lb
Hey man, I recently left the military to go back to school so I had to sell my dirtbike. I kept my mountain bike but it gets no use and just discovered the surron and talaria hype, so now I'm strongly considering selling my mtb to get one. Do you have any regrets? Would you have bough any other bike knowing what you know now? Is there any mandatory mods you suggest or will I have a blast out of the box?
Got a Wr426f also collecting dust , cause iv'e got a Triple discus Prolaps ! Bern thinking bout a E- Downhill Bike .... But when 1000€ gets me a Talaria or surron.....No brainer😅
u def have to cut the limiter wire unless u wanna top out at 25 mph.. after I cut im hitting 50mph on flat.. also you def want to get wide pegs, and if you are a taller person you will find that bars with the 3" rise will feel a lot better.. oh and final mod you will appreciate after the install is the odi downhill plate, u can clean up the wires and run them behind the plate and it is significantly larger and much more heavy duty than the paper thin stocker
@@freerfixedit I’ve been riding it for 6-7 months and this has only just happened.. I don’t know. It has like a tiny rebound but it doesn’t go all the way back and they feel stiff for some reason.
@@Adj.24 idk about the older style forks or their adjustments, but sounds like you’ve lost psi in the air side maybe. Can you see where the valve is to put air in the fork and put a pressure gauge on it to see what psi is in the forks currently?
at the time, it was cause my mic for the camera was in my helmet and I wanted good audio for the vid... it does seem to be a trend tho, and is quite cringe...
Thanks for the video! How much do you weigh and what's your height? Great questions to for a first date :) I got the new Sting R as well and my bike feels chunky
So, they haven't started making switches with the square connector yet. What you can do is purchase the square connector here amzn.to/46juEe4 and re-pin the switch to the square connector. Heres a link to a good video showing how to do it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3A4DWnN9LcY.html Looks pretty simple!
The newer Sting R's have pretty stiff suspension stock.. I'm only 150 pounds.... does anyone have any advice on how to soften it beyond these tips on here? Like, is there a decent aftermarket spring I could get for the rear?
A little bit late, but I want to lower the bike approx 2 inches - would I be able to achieve that by adjusting the suspension? From your video it sounds like adjusting pre load would be the best place to start. If I dropped it all the way down to 0, would it potentially damage my shocks?
@@freerfixedit At 8000 watts, do you really need more power??? Granted im only 155 lbs but I have never felt like I need more power with the R. You can switch the chain to non O ring, that helps a little. My bike goes 55mph. Climbs hills like a goat. Faster and lighter than my friends KLX 140. I guess if you switch to a more aggressive and wider tires, and you are a heavier rider, you might need more power.
@@freerfixedit I'm riding my R with a 60 T, and in eco mode it is so gutless, even with the 60 T, it's a joke. So, sport has all the power, for sure, but I wish the eco mode wasn't so wimpy, there's a huge spread between eco and sport. When climbing steep scree I like a powerful eco, not a wheel spinning super touchy sport throttle. Former Sur Ron rider here, I liked it's spread (stock controller) between sport and eco better, so far.
Sorry dude but you got that the wrong way around. In you ’unscrew’ the rebound to the -ve then you let less rebound dampening meaning it rebounds or returns quicker. +ve (dampening) or screwing it in means the rebound valve closes and it returns slower. Like the vid though. 👍