Yes it is scary when things go too easy. Makes you think is this right? Made a bunch of trips since video and I love this 4 stroke Suzuki more than ever.
Outboards are extremely fasinating, you take a engine and half submerg in in water and full throttle . But i think they "like to be used" the moore using them, the better reliability if change impeller here and there and oil.
Great video, I enjoyed it very much, very informative! I have a Suzuki DF90A in Cool White! I also see you have a stainless steel prop! I have purchased one but have not put it on yet! I got hurt back in March of this year and have been down since then. Haven’t been out in my boat at all this year. Maybe next year. I only put 14 hours on my motor last year. I bought a new boat/motor/trailer package! But it looks good sitting in the yard! LOL Anyway, again, I really enjoyed the video! 👍
I just put out another video on fuel system maintenance. for the DF90. I really like this motor, as for fuel usage it is just great about the same as my old 25 2 stroke Johnson. Hope your health gets better soon and you can enjoy the boat.
@@martinnilsson5295 It doesn’t bother me as far as the color, I love the cool white color. It goes good with my boat, blue & white, off course black would go well with it also. It’s just preference, I just like the white. LoL 👍
Amazing video!! Step by step, high video quality, and man, this looks like a TV show! Quick question, what type of grease you used?? Could get the details. Thanks!!!
I will be taking my pontoon boat up the Neuse River in NC and that is really brackish water. I will be using a public boat launch to both launch and recover. There is no water faucet to hook a hose up to for at minimum an initial flushing with just plain no salt water. My thought is to have a couple gallons of mixed salt away and water and with a funnel get it down the two flush ports I have on my Suzuki 150. Once I complete the 3 1/2 to 4 hour drive home, I will go through the full de-salinization process properly. What are your thoughts on my plan??
Excellent video and thanks very much for posting! I am now actually looking forward to doing this myself. I live in Canada where it is cold during the winter and my outboard does not get used from December until some time in April. When I had a two stroke motor I would "fog" it with oil. Do you recommend doing anything for a Suzuki DF90 when it sits for that period of time with temperatures in the range of 20-40 degrees fahrenheit with occasional times of a little colder. Thanks for your assistance.
Great video. Just got myself a Df 90 2006 and it has low running houers but i would like to have a major overlook after its 16th season . What can u recomend me to look out for
Could these same steps be similar for my 2022 DF70 suzuki outboard? Manual is very vague sadly. Thanks in advance! Gained a follower for a informative video 🤟🏼
I believe the 70 and my 90 are basically the same engine. Should be exactly the same for each. I would bet even the impeller kit part numbers are the same.
Thank you for the reply. Not on here much. Thinking of doing my sacrificial diodes. But I run freshwater and engine is a 21 don’t think it needs them changed. How do yours look? Talk soon I’ll come back to check this time 😂
Brilliant video thank you, please can you help me , I have a 90 hp Suzuki 2006 good condition, pumping water well but when I put in new genuine water pump in it struggling to pump water. Iv tried in water butt and with muffs and results are the same, I end up putting old one back in. Please help.
@@shaunsouthern7931 I think so, the new one I had was hard to get into the Impeller Cup. Only other thing is to check which way the shaft turns and install with the impeller blades folded in the right direction. They should self correct direction but just grabbing at straws now.
No sense in skimping when you’re usually kind of isolated being out on the water. It’s not you can show a little leg and get a ride home! lol How often do you change your fuel filters and plugs?
I get the same fuel usage as I used to with a 25 horse 2 stroke Johnson on a 16 foot flat. This motor is awesome on fuel which is important now with the current prices! Plus this motor is a whole other level of quiet.
Exactly, I get a kick out of people who use their favorite automotive oil in their expensive outboard and swear by it..even though the owners manual says not to. Outboard oil has different API classifications. You wouldn't put outboard oil in your expensive car engine...then why would you put auto oil in your outboard?
I worked for Chevron Oil Additives (Oronite) for 27 years, I was going to give a speech about oil additive properties and the importance of following the manu. recommendations but did not want to sound like a know it all. I am glad to get your reply, Thanks.
@@SRadigFishing Interesting subject. I know a retired purchasing agent who bought oil additives for shell. I always ask him many questions. (Feel free to give a speech) I will google Oronite
@@martinschulz9381 Oronite, Lubrizol and Shell are the 3 big players in the additive business and all 3 basically make the same products. They buy, sell and trade with each other. Their additive packages are similar and all good. Sometimes they use the same packages to save on engine testing costs. Additives make up about 10% of a quart of upper tier oils. When a TV commercial makes a claim it has been tested at engine facilities where they weigh each part before and after a specified run time and also in taxi fleets, they have proof of their claims. Same with Outboards. Nothing will kill a 2 stroke outboard faster than cheap oil!
@@SRadigFishing Thanks for replying. This purchasing agent I know mentioned Lubrizol and also said that Shell and Chevron often work together in producing product. The next time I see him I will ask him about Oronite. What do you think about all this big synthetic oil hype/buzz? Many turbo charged over the road semi trucks go over a million miles on conventional Chevron Delo. Also, What do you think about this big Amsoil oil craze that has consumed so many guys? Just curious.
@@martinschulz9381 On synthetics, when the base oil is made from gasification (Natural Gas Based) they are starting of with a pure carbon molecule. Unlike crude oil based which are a made from a bunch of different carbon chains that have to be refined. Starting off with a pure base oil and adding exact additive packages for wear, corrosion and other properties does make for a better product. Additive are classed as detergent which self explains, anti wear usually a sacrificial zinc molecule and chemicals that keep combustion particles in suspension to be filtered out and not bind to the internals. This is a quick easy talk on additives of course it is a lot more complicated. An example is railroad engines (EMD's)have a silver type bearing and cannot have any zinc based wear additive. That is an example of using the wrong oil will actually destroy an engine!
@@matthewguidry5570 Tim's would only go to a 90, they said it wasn't rated for a 115 for insurance reasons. If I had the choice I would have went with the 115. More horsepower is always better since they are about the same weight.
