Little update I got a new oem connecter off Ebay but I didn't do the top connecter and it went bad again. I assume because the corrotion and even heat damage to the wire causing resistance was still on the top half. So I have now taken the main wire out of the connector and used a decent sized spade connecter for that wire alone and so far its been fine. I have also got an inline fuse I was going to add but haven't done yet.
The gift that keeps on giving 7 years later!!! My girlfriend stalled down town because of this yesterday!! I cant thank you enough my friend, cheers from Quebec Canada. Let me know if you need anything I owe you.
I am fighting this too. You can access this from the top too by pulling the air box. Loosen the throttle body clamps, then disconnect the hoses on the left side and you can shove the air box back and out of the way. My wires did not burn out, but it's not functional just the same. A tip to anyone without a shop manual or obvious damage to your ignition wiring; put your ignition in the "on" position and use a continuity tester. All terminals should have continuity. In my case the O/Y wire was the problem somewhere along the way.
Chris Davis hi there my name is Cristian. I believe I'm running into the same problem you did and I wanted to ask you how did you solve the problem and also how do you check for continuity with the ignition on? ... thanks for your time
cristian susanibar However I did it, I didn't do it correctly. I ordered a new (used) ignition and I have yet to install it. I am hoping that solves my problem. I will get back to you once I've swapped it out. Maybe in a week or two. Let me know how you've resolved your issue if you get to it before I do.
This is called the infamous Green Connector issue. De pin all wire and cut the bad, burnt, or corroded wires off to the same length where your wires are 100%. 2 options. 1 get me pins and plugs and use better shrink wrap and solder the connectors. 2 use better rated connectors. Ps you might have to extend wire or totally replace the run and pin it back in.
Vid really useful . I have a 2019 SV650X and am having a top yoke made to fit flat bars instead of the clip ons. The ignition switch is riveted to the Yokes so had to unclip the connection. Nightmare until I dropped the rad and managed to get access. Luckily no plastic cover. Thanks
Well at the moment everything is fine but i know whats gone wrong when i get those symptoms, great video and i was laughing with the piece of string thing, but it worked well done mate...
+1stSinBin I am having a similar issue, not sure if it the same. But basically, every so often, when i turn they key the sah lights up, but The FI light comes on steady with no sound coming from the fuel primer and it will not start giving me an error code for ignition. When i switch ignition on/off a few times it will eventually kick in and the fuel primer kicks in and allows me to start. It sounded like your problem was different, did you say you had no power at all? not even dash?
Yea think I had nothing at all on the dash. Still be worth looking at them wires does look like the connecter cant handle the wire size or power. you could also check your kill switch give it a little wobble and a tug on the wire see if it causes the issue to come and go. My bike is an 03 used all year round and I can see the wiring sleeve's up front started to erode and break apart with reguler movment.
Hey 1stsinbin. I have the exact same issue. Right up until today it cut out on me while riding. Was lucky enough to get it home but i had to hold the throttle on. However after fidling the the igniton and killswitch a few times fixed itself up again. Was it the green connector for you?
sorry I did not expect a reply back. but I have checked the cables and they are fine the throttle bodies look ok I've pulled both sensors on it and they still work. but I recently was staying it with the air box removed and it still revs to 6000rpm but I put my fingers over all of the vacuum hoses and I got the rpms to come down to 2200.
Hehe yea was an odd place to ask about a cbr was you watching a few vids? vacuum hoses can dry out bad and collapse or split. normal the ecu might cover it up if it happens over time but yours would have been a direct change. had that when resetting my sister-in-laws focus once. good luck.
Haha no the bike I'm talking about is my 2007 sv650s. I am going to check the little port on the bottom of the throttle body's here soon. Do u have any idea what those ports are for? it's literally a port with a rubber boot over it so no air can go in or out.
it's for syncing your throttle bodies, they originally had round rubber booties on em, tiny ones, mine were all cracked so I did some research and it seems I forget exactly but it helps the running of the bike if you run a hose between the two and connect them.
Hi all, just bought my first bike Suzuki SV650s delighted with it. Person I bought it off explained to me that this is a common issue and that it will likely happen as it's happened to him before. From someone not very mechanically inclined yet would this be an expensive fix from a bike mechanic? Is the bike save to ride or should I get this looked at asap. Bike is running fine at the moment.
It will only tend to effect starting the bike so isn't dangerous. It might never happen so I wouldn't worry. If one day it won't turn over, think you don't hear the fuel pump start then you wiggle the ignition wires. If that starts to happen then get it looked at. Maybe 1 hour labour.
@@1stSinBin Thanks for taking the time to reply mate, reading up on this common problem I was under the impression it may cut the power to the bike completely at any time while riding.
I'm currently trying to follow your video after my SV650S also won't turn on. I'm currently stuck trying to remove the black plastic that protects the wiring (the one where you said the screws are a nightmare). First screw came out fine, second screw just turns forever. Anyone have any tips on removing it?
Ah, that would explain it! Oddly, the one that I did manage to remove was definitely a screw. Very odd! I will try your advice and see how it goes. Thank you so much for your video and the quick reply
I've just been having a look, not managed to get it out yet, but... had a fiddle with the ignition connection and the bike now turns on. Thank you for saving me a fortune in labour fees at a garage while they look for the problem.
Nick Allen seems a common issues watch the wire dosnt burn out with a loose connection. Break that clips head off if you have to and use any 6mm fairing clip or 8mm to be safe rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222880541762 ebay link here should be the right clip. You can pop the red wire out its plug if hes the fault and make a connection outside that green plug.
Hello, Thanks for this video it will be helpful for me, can I ask how long did it take you to get to the green connetor (ignition) ? There is really really bad access to it. I have problem that sometimes my SV (SV650s 05') wont start, just light are on but computer wont get on and nothing works (expect lights). In very that case, I am always just movin with ingnition cable like pushing or pulling it towards me. I think (and I hope) that just cable is badly connected. I am conviced that only cable to ingnition is OK and only cable of ingnition is bad, do I have to buy whole new ignition switch? Cheers from Czechia
It sounds like a broken/damge wire as moving the cables changes it. its not that hard to get to, fairing off , radiator is only 2 bolts then that silly black cover and your see the connecters. Below is also a comment that you can go in from the top, lift tank up and remove the air box but be carful to cover the air intakes wile working with a clean cloth.
if there is a foreign object inside of an ignition cylinder from an attempted theft and your key won't fit into the ignition all the way, what would be the best method to fixing this?
if it's not to stuck get something like a pull tie cut it flat and put a tiny dib of super glue on the end and touch it on the stuck item and let it stick to it. don't use so much that it spills all inside and totally ruins the lock.
6180-6181 this might get you started. You can just change the connecter totally or as I did pull the red wire out and use another connecter just for that wire. It's bigger and doesn't suit that plug.
@@holidayinnexpressrichmondk7110 yea you can do that but it's not the best long term. Use a spade connector or something. Remember to seal the whole you leave in the plug, maybe a bit of silicone or damp will get to the other wires.
I have a problem when I start my bike it immediately revs to 6000 rpm and won't come back down. Anyone have any clues anything will be helpful. also bike sat for 8 years and ran fine when I got it going.
That's a fair time to sit, no real idea but check the throttle cables moving well and off corse the throttle bodies. there probly like some lube were the cables pull them on the outside and have got stuck open.
