i had a brute force 750 a couple years ago and by god did it run awesome. had it for at least 4 years and ran the piss out of it and it still ran like how i got it. went through some alaska mud and it never did bog down or quit on me. but i sold it for how much i paid for it. now i am on a 17 sportsman 570 utility edition and i have put it through the same stuff as i did with the brute force and it hasnt skipped a beat yet either. love your videos man, keep up the good work
We use gasoline at the shop to clean out the front or rear diffs. We jack it up, start it and run it up through the gears for one minute. Then drain and repeat. Usually takes two or three try's. After the third drain, the gas will be clear coming out. After that a very light oil, run it through, drain, then finish off with your gear oil of choice. Works great and it will clean the insides beautifully. Cheers
Check the rear seal on the drive shaft against the motor my brute would let water in there. Also the seal sits in a housing that has 3 or 4 bolts that hold it against the motor pull that off and run a bead of RTV around it and install that should stop any water from coming in from there
Great vid Louie. I'm looking into getting a Brute Force 750 as well so I really appreciate these vids and your opinions/points made. The channel has taken a new turn towards "Bikes" and I like it although I love my snow machines too. I really have to wonder though.... What does Ricky Bobby Louie think of "Bikes"... I gotta know LOL..... cheers
Hey I have a 2008 brute force 750 the fuel pump comes on I get fuel to the injectors but it want crank until I pour fuel directly into the injectors what could possibly be my problem
Any ideas on flushing the rear diff? It’s the wet brakes so I’m not sure if a certain oil or fluid works well. I had the seal on my rear diff where the CV axles go in deteriorating so I have water in my rear diff now.
I've got a 2008 Brute Force 750... I use the diff lock all the time due to the rugged terrain where I ride in Tennessee, Virginia, and North Carolina. So, 12 years going strong!!!
Awesome video but the audio is hit and miss. Spent 40 years working around heavy equipment, 10 or so of which I also played in a band, so the hearing is not that great. Please wear a wireless clip-on or over-dub the weak audio later. Thanks!
brute forces are junk. great power, loads of fun until you notice a toonie size hole in the top of your third front diff while youre stopped because you were overheating and when you get home it wont start again until you go over the whole wiring situation and fix those stupid connectors.
Guess we all can agree to disagree. For myself, I have a 2008 model that's a beast. Trust me when I say that I run the dogshit out of it. It's snorkeled and I take her deep, whether its water, mud, etc... it handles everything I throw at it. I do periodic checks of the engine oil, front/rear diffs for water entry. I do replace seals from time to time, but that's expected for the manner for which I ride (nothing is waterproof). I have many aftermarket performance parts installed which elevate the suspension, engine performance, drivetrain, exhaust, fuel/ignition tunes, clutching, you name it. I wouldn't trade it for any other brand out there today.
Hello . I also have a problem with this engine model ( atv kawasaki kvf 750 2008)where the oil pump is located, I have a metal pinch,because the pump was broken. and I decided to change it . how can i solve the problem ?? to use sandpaper or what else ?? because it belongs to the whole piece which is very expensive .www.brutecentral.com/threads/hello-who-could-help-me-with-some-advice.25304/#post-196246
Skippy Gaming We have flushed them properly sometimes up to a dozen flushes , brute forces don't have very good crank design , I've swapped my old 660 grizzly many times and still runs like new .
