I know it doesn’t make a difference, but as a GM purist, the way the distributors were clocked and the wire they had designated as #1 made my eye twitch.
This is the coolest thing ever! I see on the website that it has a 2.5 bar map sensor so I assume the ignition can be programmed to regard based on boost. Suggestion: put a link to your website in the description. Looks like an awesome product. WOW!
Not sure if you still see the comments on this, but I had a couple quick ?'s if you do. #1, do you offer replacement parts for these for when they wear out, or do I have to order another one. #2, Do you have 1 for the 429/460 Ford (385 series BBF's), I didn't see them on your site. Very interesting product, and I'm deeply considering purchasing a few of these to try them out.
Is that MUST to have that full ported vacuum on my intake? Does the Distributor even work without it? I just think that my engine won't make enough vacuum at idle so its not really worth it..
Hello, i bought a progression ignition and recently finishing my truck and the kill switch feature is not working. I watched your video on how to use feature. Please advise.
Very cool. Wondering if you can make one for a mopar BB? Looking to upgrade on my vehicle, out with the old tech and use something like what you have here.
Reads the RPM signal and determines from your table where it needs to be @ WOT. Same as mechanical advance adds it with more engine RPM. This works the exact same was as an OEM Distributor it is just a lot easier to tune your timing. No more springs weights or vacuum canisters.
would this work on a 93' FORD 460/429? BIG BLOCK obd1 efi? Even with the basic ford efi system, since its still adjustable, an a disitributor...still need too be adjusted, would this distributor work? If i removed the spout plug? It seemslike im always needing too tweek the timming base,etc manually depending on fuel quality, weather etc.. This woulld be great..
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks.
Would a knock sensor retard/advance option be of interest for high compression engines? I personally removed the system out of my 84 K20 but have always thought about modern-day tune able options.
And longevity. I haven’t seen this company on any of their social media for quite some time which makes me nervous to spend this kind of money even though I’d love to have one of these. Lots of dough to drop on an item that may become a paperweight if the company goes under.
It's definitely a cool-featured device. But it would be a hard sell for me. An ignition module is 10 dollars should it ever fail. What does one of these cost? If your phone battery happens to die are you stuck at 10 degrees advance and thus in limp mode?
The distributor works as a self contained unit, without the phone. The phone is only necessary to tune the engine, but once it's been tuned the distributor will remember your settings.
A circuit board isn’t for me. My Pertronix died, my Crane XR-i died. I was going to try an Accel module but reading reviews that they sometimes don’t work out of the box so I’m back using points in my 70 Z/28. Good luck with the China distributor.
Awesome product, just finished the install. Love the ability to tune with a click of a button with out having to dig into it. Running it with a fitech throttle body.
This is neat, I like it. I'm sorry I missed it 3 years ago, just found it. Anyway my question is this - do you plan to do a system with this dist or similar and a knock sensor? Seems with the computerized module a knock sensor setup would be a good addition - also, do you make this for small block ford as well? I have a forded HEI and love it and this seems like the next step.
You set your max advance at 34 degrees but when you ran your rpm up above your 3000 rpm "all in" mark your timing was way above 34 degrees and climbing still as you went past 3000. Is it adding 34 degrees to your initial 10 making your max advance 44?
Makes me wonder if you can use this dizzy in any 90's ford 302/351w EFI after you do the full egr delete where your timing is a bit screwed up afterwards with possible pinging and such. The huge issue is that the eec keeps advancing the timing because of the lack of egr signal. Any thoughts on this? Have you heard about what I'm talking about? Hopefully I will get a response.
Why not run full egr or a blocked (plugged passages) egr valve? My later gm obd 1 cycles the egr during deceleration and measures map pressure to confirm egr operation. An egr delete (or blocked passage) generates an egr code. Also, is your tranny a 4-speed auto with lockup torque converter? Cruising in 4th you need lockup working, else too much heat is going into the fluid from converter slip.
This looks amazing. I was just talking to the guy at my local speed shop about how I can't believe no one has developed something like this yet. This is a 5 year old video, but I really hope this thing worked out well and is still available.
I didn’t know it had adjustable vacuum advance! My cammed motor doesn’t make more than 6lbs of vacuum and I’ve been struggling to get a working setup, this could have helped the whole time..
Stumbling block..? If your engine is old and has no visible timing marks, users may struggle to find and set that mark on the distributor body prior to removal. However, the rest of the process and the product looks ace. Going to your website now. Well done.
Just got msd ready to run ...was looking at you distributor they look great ....going in rv Mopar industrial 413 compression only 7-4-1..lol in 73 Mercury Apollo rv it's cool have not used it still in box distributor should I get yours??? Features look great man killer idea 💡...
Absolutely ❤ ur Fabulous Distributor. 1st saw on Unity Motor Sports RU-vid when Andy had his mixed up boss on the Dyno. Cheers 2 Andy . Q 4U . What material is the Gear drive pls. Hope it's something substantial. Cheers Robert Australia 👌👍😀
Could it be possible that I went a tooth too far when I inserted my HEI Progression distributor? It seems to idle too high. I know other components can effect this but I am starting from scratch on a sbc chevy 350 with a Holley 4150 Carb. I've set the carb up the way many of the RU-vid videos said to. On a cold start up, do I just rev the engine up to 1200 rpm and turn the distributor until the timing mark hits 10 degrees BTDC? Or do I need the let the engine warm up to a certain temp before I line up the 10 degrees BTDC?
Hi there. I was trying to put one in my 1989 OMC 4.3 L gmc boat motor but there is no vacuum canister on the old one. Also wiring is not numbered so I can plug them in. Wish someone can tell me if there's a way to get ir done. Thx
Can the Progression Ignition distributors be used with the after market fuel injection units that are out there? If so which ones will it work best with? Thank you.
This is slick I need one for my up and coming windsor build this winter I thought about just having the duraspark recurved. But why have it done when you can do it yourself?? For HEI guys this is a godsend because those curve kits will never limit mechanical advance more then 18 degrees at best with a 500.00 msd billet HEI. Some want less mechanical advance Excellent work!! Bookmarked the website
love to see one on you're smallblock dodge distributor and possibly a speedo and rpm readout for the application as well if possible. I am in california as well and would be interested in something like this for my built 72 dodge dart
Notice that part 'connected to full manifold vacuum' as opposed to 'ported vacuum' which was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more.
Even with converters they still used ported. What it did was it raised EGTs at idle to make the Smog pump and catalyst work better. I always run full manifold vacuum, idles better and uses less fuel to idle
I have a 1964 Plymouth Fury with a 1968 440 engine. This car came to me "as is". The distributor is stock 1964 with no vacuum and it has an MSD 6AL box. Is this something that can be set up on this car with or without the MSD box? Thanks
That's INGENIOUS! You can choose how your engine runs from your cellphone. It can disable the ignition system, and detoured wannabe cars thieves. I wonder if it works in cars with the standard GM distributor electronic ignition.
@@ProgressionIgnition digital 6al box? What is the part # for a ford 5.8w roller motor. I am going to reuse the stock camshaft so i beleive that i need a harder gear. My current 5.0 with comp cam roller has an msd with bronze gear but ive read the factory ford cam will require a harder gear.
You kidding about your diesel right? They are compression ignition and control ignition by injection pump timing, requires special tools to set timing on a mechanical pump or a computer to adjust injectors
Ted, you are missing a real teaching moment here. You should have a dozen videos covering every concievable issue. Most these vids are not even from prog ig.
Ted, fitted one of your distributors to my new build Buick 455 today. Stunning piece of kit, rock solid idle, off idle is perfect. Can't wait to get it on the dyno
How can you possibly adjust the idle correctly at the distributor rather than the carb, and what RPM should you have it set at the carb in the first place?
You don't adjust idle rpm with this. You enter the idle rpm that your engine is already set at and enter the timing you want at that idle. Idle rpm changes are still done at the carb.
