Here's a video on how to adjust the valve clearance on a HD200 motor. With a bit of mechanical knowledge and some simple tools, you can do this yourself.
Not sure what the 14 people who didn't like this video thought they were gonna see...I got just what I came for after weeks of trying to find a clear demonstration of a valve adjustment. Thanks man - I really appreciate you.
Thank you for your website and the videos on maintenance on the SYM HD200. I am going to check the valve adjustments on my wife's HD very soon. At that time I want to replace the coolant, check the air filter and belt also. Your videos are a BIG help!!
Thanks again! My wife's HD200 just hit 7000 miles and the valves had never been checked. Just finished checking them, and ALL are fine. No adjustment needed. Though the R/side exhaust was a toughie to get to without removing the lower cover. .005" feeler got a slight drag on all valves. I tore both valve cover gaskets. Had to toss the exhaust gasket, as it was too torn. Used gasket eliminator. No dealer in my area.
Great video, I'm doing the valve adjustment on my RV250, In the video when you are showing the timing chain, the graphic says, use a 10mm wrench or socket on either bolt to turn the engine, how are you using the wrench or socket? To push on the on the bolt to spin the drive face? Please explain, I'm stuck with a dissembled scooter and stumped as to how spin it.
Thank you for your awesome SYM HD 200 videos! I have a 2016 HD 200 EVO. I have used your videos for oil change, gear oil change, belt change and now, valve adjustment. Makes me want to try your hot sauce! On thing that confused me on this is that you say TDC is when it is hard to turn the wheel. Everytime the mark was almost to the spot it should be, the wheel was hard to turn. I am asuming that the mark does not have to rotate twice (once past then next time, stay there) for it to reach TDC. Anyway, seems like I got it right. I had never done the valve adjustment and I have over 11,000 miles. 1 exhaust valve and 1 intake valve was too tight, so I set them to .0127 millimeters (.005 inches). I had hard starts sometimes and it is not the battery or charging system (throughly checked, batter tender on everyday as well, etc.) so I suspected tight valves. So far so good. Seems to have done the trick.
Forgot to mention, the cardboard valve cover gaskets both broke (probably because they were on for over 11,000 miles). I am ordering new ones plus extras in case I need them next time for valve adjustment. Just thought I would mention that in case others want to order those to have handy if needed when doing the job.
Thanks Jeff, a clear and precise demonstration of valve adjustment. Thank you. I bought a 2016 SYM HD 200 February with 900 miles on it. Now (9/17/2018) I have 3200 miles on it. Bike runs silky smooth and I got up to about 70 something recently on the freeway then backed-off, maybe could have done more, maybe? Whew!! Question: At cold idle in the morning I hear just a little ticking and wondering if this is normal? It seems to diminish greatly after a few moments when things get warmed up. I've read from another source that he (a dealer) has rarely ever needed to do valve adjustments on a SYM 200. Can this be true? Otherwise I'm able to do my adjustments via your good demo. Thanks Dean Seattle, WA
The belts start out at 19mm wide at the top (widest point) and once they get to 17.5 mm wide, they are considered shot and need replacing. I don't endorse any particular store, but you can get a very inexpensive digital micrometer just about anywhere for 10 bucks or so. particularly "Hber FRT tools" if you know what I mean. Also there's no need to buy the fancy 40.00 a gallon coolant at motorcycle stores. Any coolant designed for ALUMINUM coolant systems is fine. All-In-One is good too
Hi Jeff, thank you for the SYM videos! I have a question, when turning to align to top dead center, it becomes difficult as you mentioned but it does that about 5-10 degree BEFORE the case mark. Then if I proceed to align them, it releases and feels easy to spin right when it approaches alignment. I know you said it means the valve is open. My question is, what do I do? Do I turn it as close as I can to aligned to top dead center while keeping inside that resistance zone? Or should I still align to top dead center even though it releases resistance, but then do something else to make sure everything is adjusted correctly? Thank you so much and hoping you have an answer!
There are TWO top dead centers in a four stroke engine. Compression and exhaust strokes. You want the compression TDC and it seems to me that you have gotten it to the exhaust TDC. The exhaust TDC will do exactly what you've described since it is in a state called the "overlap zone." That is when the intake valves are slightly open and on their way to be fully open and the exhaust valves are also slightly open on their way to be closed. Turn the motor around more until you get to TDC on the compression stroke
Hi guys.i have this hd200 too.but cooling system gives a trouble. Water is boiling - fan doesnt open it. When opens then next day it doesnt open again. ???
Remove the nose cone, unplug the fan motor, as usual when you do your coolant flushes. REMEMBER the very best way to fully bleed these GY6 water jackets or any water jacket in any gas motor after your expert refill of proper coolant is to allow for re-start and warm-up, shut off, put a heavy glove on and gently turn rad cap left, listen carefully for that gentle "hiss," then re-tighten the rad cap.
Loss of power and especially a rough idle and noises. Once the motor starts is should run a bit rough anyway but not for long. Excessive over tightened valves will especially cause poor running and excessively loose valves will cause a lot of noise "clanking" make sure to do any adjustments on a COLD engine...
It is actually a cup holder for a boat. That allows it the swinging action... Be warned although the cup holder will hold a standard 16/20 ounce plastic pop bottle, if it is full it will be too top heavy and tip over and maybe fall out and onto the road. Been there, done that LOL.
I have no idea why you would've taken the timing chain out since that should be a lifetime part under normal circumstances. Either way it has to go back in and correctly or you stand the chance of seriously damaging or destroying your motor. I don't know if this is an interference motor or not since I haven't read anything stating it is or isn't, but if it is and the timing is not done right, then you could smash your valve on the top of the piston which obviously is NOT GOOD. I've done a few timing chains on vehicles in my over 40 years of mechanical experience and many many timing belts and the concept is the same... exact timing... I have near 21,000 miles on my HD and honestly I wouldn't even think of monkeying with mine (yet). On a normally used auto engine 2-300,000 miles is a good life expectancy of a timing chain. Here is a link for the service and owners manuals. If for whatever reason you can't download the PDF's, then email me and I'll send you the manuals I have. Section 6 is where you need to look and I hope and pray you didn't (if possible) remove entirely the timing chain completely.. In the manual this is referred to as the cam chain. If you did remove it, then first you need to read into section 5 which is engine removal and then section 11 which is engine disassembly. Seriously though, don't even think of doing anything that you don't feel you can do as it is not worth it. I have schooling, knowledge and experience working on engines for a long time and there are and have been a few jobs I said, "No freaking way!!!" Here's the link and my email if that doesn't work for you... www.manualslib.com/manual/804351/Sym-Hd-125.html#product-HD200 jeffishes@comcast.net GOOD LUCK---Jeff
