Great tutorial video! I was so confused about this as there are different variations on the procedure floating online. The official Volvo pdf file says to loosen the 3 cam gear bolts and rotate the gear clockwise until the left edge of the slotted hole contacts the edge of the bolt. Another forum said you have to loosen both the cam gear bolts, and the vvt center torx bolt, and simultaneously turn the cam gear clockwise and the vvt counter clockwise until the bolts bottoms out at the left edge of the slotted hole then tighten everything up and align the marks. One other youtubber said to rotate the crank pully 1/4 turn past its mark on the oil pump, then turn it back to its timing mark before setting the cams. Your video is very simple to follow, and as I can see after you were done with everything you verified the timing was correct by rotating the engine. It seemed to rotate without any issues. I will use this technique on my project xc90t6!
A simple way to line up those cam gears is to set the engine up, lock the cams, make your own timing marks on the back of the cam gears, then slip the belt off. I usually do three, correlated to the VVT solenoids. Then you go to remove the gears, I turn the CCW to their limit, make a 4th mark, break them off, replace the seals, then use my 4th mark which I call a LIMIT MARK, and then work from there. That way you're not starting from scratch.
Great video! I did the belt yesterday on my 2005 2.5T XC70 and now it runs like a charm. Great tip on the VVTi hubs loaded forward. Once I locked the camshafts with an identical tool to the one depicted, the time was baging on. A tip for those buying the chinese version, the steel of the tool itself is good and the machining is great, just beware the short bolts bottom up before tightening, I installed the extensions and used the long bolts and went smooth, you can either get shorter graded steel bolts or use a bunch of washers or a nut (which I didn't have).
@@lop8828 sorry for the late response, the tool I got it from ebay, just search Volvo Camshaft tool, you'll get plenty of hits. As for the parts itself I always buy them at FCPeuro.com
Excellent video all timing belts are done on the T5 which is not the same and you have to be carefull for the niple on the themostat housing. Good work .
I think you tightened the tensioner to the hot position when it should have been on the fist tab position witch I believe is the cold position seeing that the engine has not been run and should be cold.
I find it confusing the explanation about the VVT hubs. But speaking about normal belt change (without replacing the cam seals), as I understand, there is no need to remove the center hub bolt or the 4 gear securing bolts. Just make sure the timing marks stay aligned when installing the new belt (turn the cam gears by hand to match the marks). As for locking the cams, you can use this tool to lock them in the front, much cheaper and easier (IPD 109573) images.matthewsvolvosite.com/timing-belt-cam-locking-tool.jpg . Be aware that you will brake the thermostat housing vent hose, see forums for a fix www.swedespeed.com/threads/need-info-on-timing-belt-replacement-xc90-t6.174402/ For the tensioner, before setting it we need to make sure the new belt has tension between the idler and the intake cam gear, if there's no tension we need to turn the crank by hand a full turn (with the tensioner bolt loose). Then to adjust it Volvo says to turn first the indicator to the right and past the temperature tabs - then go back to the center position (the block has to be at room temp, around 20C or 75F) and tighten the bolt to 20Nm (15ft-lbs). Also, be sure to lock the crank as shown. Otherwise, when removing/installing the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) the crank will rotate under the torque applied to the bolts, causing the timing marks to become misaligned with those of the camshafts.
@@racedwg No problem, we often get questions about people who went removing the hubs to replace leaky seals (usually from clogged PCV), they don't mark the hubs or lock the cams properly and get stuck with bad timing. Always good to inquire first on forums about the procedure before removing the hubs. I've also added a link to a small cam gears locking tool
You don't need to use the locking tool I have the 2.9 twin turbo and removed the timing belt 3 times since I had it line your marks up to top dead center put timing belt around all pulleys accept the idler and top 2 pulleys start off with the left one then the right and slide on to the idler rotate the crank a few times make sure the lines are top dead center if it's off a tooth you can make it jump one tooth without taking it back off another thing people say don't tighten the timing belt so tight but tighting it saved my engine because my serpentine belt broke and got caught up in the timing belt almost causing it to jump
Please i need more information for the open and install all..camshaft position and all it..i just want to change head cylinder my T6 s80 but i dont have instructions..you need to buy head camera that will make you easy to make more video about volvo
I don't get it. According to VIda your timing is slightly off and they should be locket a cog and 2 cogs before the mark when setting the timing to factory.
Hi I need help please , I'm doing headgasket for my 2003 volvo xc90 2.9l , I rebuild the cylinders head and everything but I'm on hold because I need to know if : 1- can I use Victor renz / Elring headgasket and head bolts or it has to be genuine volvo ? 2-what is the best aftermarket brand for timming set kit , belt / tensioner/ pully etc ? Basically I want to save few hundreds dollars if the aftermarket would survive for 2-3 years I won't mind if they go bad in 2-3 years. But not few months . I Emiled FCP because they list 3 brands I asked if it's critical to install after market or not , they replied saying all our brands are good .
Does the engine need to be out of the engine to do this? Planning on buying a used XC90 and needs the timing belt done. What is the avg cost to change the timing belt?
