I was a bit skeptical when I first heard your accent. However, after listening and watching you, I understood you perfectly fine. Very informative ! You seem to be a very trustworthy man. 👍 good job
Lol it wasn't me it was the bottle 😂😂👌. What a great guy.. You seem like a very honest man if I lived by you you'd be working on my Toyota Tundra.. Keep up the great work love your videos.. take care.
Great video! Enjoyed watching it. For the DIYers out there, if you don't want your socket to get jammed on the overly tight fill and drain plugs, be sure to use a 6 point 24mm socket as opposed to a 12 point. In this application, a 1/2" drive is superior to a 3/8" drive. Less tool flexing means more twisting force directed to where it's needed most, the plug. Don't be afraid of using a 2 foot long breaker bar. A little penetrating fluid on the plugs will help a lot too. The OEM part number for both plug gaskets on the rear differential is 12157-10010 and yes they are "crush washers" as opposed to the stamped solid aluminum gaskets used on the manual transmission. Look at both sides of the gasket. One side will be smooth and the other side will have a seam. It is a standard operating procedure to put the seam against the plug flange and the smooth side against differential housing.
Personious k: If you don't have a 24mm socket, just use a 15/16 inch socket. It will actually fit the hex head of the drain plug a little better because it only measures 23.81mm.
If you haven't, you should do a video on inspecting and changing the CENTER CARRIER BEARING. I never see videos on this neglected topic. As far back as about 8 months ago my 2008 5.7 Tundra with 178k which I purchased new in 2008 with 0 miles gradually started shifting and driving differently. I noticed intermittent vehicle vibration during acceleration and an occasional clunking noise coming from the transmission. Being that the truck is going on 15 years old, and even though I'd done 2 transmission flushes I was getting ready for a possible transmission rebuild. Then I received the good news!! The dealer did an oil and filter change along with a front brake job and I thought I'd mention to them that I felt an occasional vibration from the rear end and if they could check it out. They found the center carrier bearing was completely damaged. Rubber seal/boot torn. Bearing was so damaged that the entire drive train was bouncing up and down. To make a long story short, 590.00 later shifting and vibration problems gone. From what I gather, the center carrier bearing lasts roughly 120k and once the bearing is even slightly worn-out past a certain point it affects how the vehicle drives and shifts. Thank you for your time and the videos.
Like always Peter....great video. Funny sounds, "that wasn't me" lol 😄 Thank you for your informative videos and your professionalism on these "how to" videos. Danke.....Love your videos. God bless.
If the bolt head jams in the socket just retighten the the bolt to back the base until the socket lets go of the bolt head then undo again! No need to use a hammer.
But it was a used truck, and neither the owner or he knew until he'd drained it. I'm kind of in the same boat. I just bought a used truck and can't be sure what's been done by the previous owner. I suppose I'll need to drain the diff, transmission, etc. just to know.
@@edcones2948 it was obvious when he removed the fill plug, he didn’t need to drain it if it’s clean but whatever, i suppose I would have too, if it were my truck…and i did :)
You seem like a very honest man. If I was looking at that truck for its owner, I’d have given him a realistic but large estimate for all the work needed from neglect, and then I’d make him an offer to buy it that he couldn’t refuse!
Sir you need to rotate the tires once you fill - you then reopen and you notice it's one inch low ,then you top off .Even pros don't fully fill the right way.
75W-90 would have been a satisfactory substitute. The operator was just following the Owners Manual specifications. It gets very hot in the southwestern states of the USA. The concern is that the lighter weight of the 75W-90 might cause some gear noise in the differential until the oil comes up to normal operating temperature.
@@tomheringer2047 Thanks for replying....I did not know why the 80W-90 was specified where other DIYers would just use 75W-90. I used 75W-90 in my Lexus GS where 80W-90 is specified. It was just easier to use 75W-90 as I wanted synthetic oil. I haven't noticed any gear noise at cold, but I'll listen for it in the coming colder months.
Rob Dutka: You made an excellent choice and won't have any adverse issues. I have an older Tacoma and use a conventional 80W-90 gear oil in the rear differential because it always had conventional oil in it and also because I wanted a gear oil without a limited slip friction modifier in the additive formula. My next Tacoma will definitely be running either Redline or Amsoil products. Engine oils and qear lubes have been getting thinner and less viscous for many reasons, but the biggest reason is that it takes a lot of horsepower to continually pump all that thick oil around. After all, engines, transmissions, transfer cases, and front and rear differentials are secondarily just acting as oil pumps which have a significant impact on fuel mileage.
@@tomheringer2047 I thought no I read somewhere that the 75-90 was designed to reduce parasitic drag to increase fuel mileage. But I get the southern heat thing.
Anything with full synthetic are better. 75W-140 is better for long life and with limited slip differential type. It has more additives than regular 75W-90.
It might have been filled while only the rear of the truck was lifted with a floor jack. So, after you lift the ruck perfectly level, the old fluid overflows as if it was over filled. Your video was very helpful to me. Thank you.
Im in the 400,000 mile club brothers with my burgandy 22 re 94 pups base.i really believe its the most reliable thing ive ever driven...who are the high milers here and what did you have to do over time....peace
If your filler bolt is stuck/stubborn, jacking up the rear passenger side of the truck and then removing the rear passenger wheel helps. Then adding a 3 inch extension on to the socket helps to clear the rear passenger side drum so that one can add a pipe onto the wrench for extra leverage, which can make loosening the filler bolt a cinch.
Wonder why mines got 2 breathers on the rear diff. Why they put two on it... its got the locking rear diff and the actuator had a breAther with a tube that goes up by the plugs for the speed sensors by the frame.. but yet the other breather is just the little nub like the one shown in the video..
hello Excellent explanation and thanks for sharing your knowledge. I need to change oil in my 98 manual 4x4 tacoma, I went to the agency and they only gave me 80w90 oil and they said that it applied for differential, transmission and transfer, I ask you, is that correct? Thank you very much for your comment
Is it unusual for the rear diff oil to look that clean ?,… the reason I ask, I just did mine at 69,000 miles for the first time ( I’m the original owner )…. and the oil that came out was very clean
I have a 05 tundra with 126.000 miles. I’m not sure if i should change the rear diff oil because i don’t know if the previous owner did when recommended.!
Sir, use 75W-140 on both differentials and transfer case. It's got be about a 50k mile gear oil, but I change the rear every 30k miles. I only use the 4WD about 2k miles a year, so I've only changed the front differential and transfer case oil 3 times in 261k miles. Use 5W-50 full synthetic motor oil on that super reliable 2.7 Liter engine. The third generation 2.7 requires 0W-20 motor oil, so drain that stock engine oil at about 500 miles, and start using 0W-40 full synthetic. You sound German, I used to live in Gelnhausen, Hessen 3 jahre, 1979 to 1982.
U have the same habits as me with the oil grade switch....i do 500-1000km on the stock oil on a new vehicles. 😀 Hi from 🇨🇦. I use 5/40, 5/50, or 0/40( if we're getting extremely cold winters)
