Tacoma rear lift installation: Eibach 2.0 Rear Shock / ICON Add-A-Leaf 1.5in 

Thank you brother 🙏🏽

Either your are backwards of my, instalation is backwards there 3 dot on the leaf

Hey, great question! In this case I used 6 ton jack stands. 3 ton jack stands will be more than enough to support a Tacoma considering the truck has a curb weight of 3,915 pounds and 4,550 pounds as specified from Toyota. (Remember this depends on if your truck is stock or not. Be sure to factor in additional weight if you have a ton of external mods)

@@Nicoma_TRD thank for your reply.

The pin and bracket housing is all welded together. All I had to do was grind the entire piece off and I was in the clear.

3/2 lift would actually level your truck. I have Bilstein 5100 front and rear. My front still has factory coils and the strut is set to the top ring for 2” lift. My rear is currently a one inch block but I’m about to swap that for a 1.5 AAL pack because I also want a slight rake.

You know I’ve wondered the same. I know for a fact that based on the measurements I took prior to installation, they are accurate to what I’m running after. I believe the tire/wheel size plays a factor as well. I’m running a 285/70/17. The new rear shocks are bigger than the OEM setup also.

Hello! Here is my current setup. Tires - BF Goodrich KO2: 285/70/17 Wheels - Falcon “T2 - Matte Black: 17x9” (-12 offset) I’m also running a 1.25 spacer with great clearance.

Yes 👍🏽

Tires - BF Goodrich KO2: 285/70/17 Wheels - Falcon “T2 - Matte Black: 17x9” (-12 offset)

In this video, the front is at a stock height. After completing the rear setup, I gained 2 inches. After completing the front setup, I gained 3 inches, thus leveling out the truck. Rides great so far!

So the two differences are kind of day and night. If you’re looking to add a block, the only purpose it’s really serving is a quick lift method. Functionality would still be equivalent to stock performance with perhaps more wear and stress on the OEM parts over time. An add-a-leaf system would improve performance overall as well as adding some hight to your system. I’d recommend adding a new set of shocks with a leaf spring system to maximize the performance. The market ranges all over depending on what your trying to achieve with your build.

An add a leaf will increase the lift height and the weight carrying capacity over the stock leaf pack. Usually with a stock truck (no weight in the bed) add a leafs will cause a harsher ride over stock. At least that's been my experience. It's entirely possible this add a leaf along with the stock leaf pack did not suffer from a harsher ride. This is "the middle" in the cost option, anywhere from $150 to $500 bucks. A block will raise the rear end while keeping the stock ride and weight carrying capacity. Tall lift blocks over 3" can induce axle/spring rap and/or extra leverage on the stock spring pack. You would incur this on hard acceleration with lots of traction. Small lift block between 1" to 2" should have zero axle/spring wrap. This is the cheapest cost option, anywhere from $100 to $200 bucks. Your 3rd option is complete new rear spring pack. This is the best option for all around performance (articulation, weight carrying capacity, lift height and ride quality). It's usually the most expensive option, anywhere from $300 to $1,100 bucks. You really only want to do this option when you are 100% sure of your desired lift height and weight carrying capacity.

@@TheNewps I agree. I had 5100 struts replaced up front with 887 OME springs and 5100 springs in the rear. I'm not sure how much It raised the front but the rear was 2" lower. For a quick fix until I can either do an add a leaf or replace the leaf pack, I put a 2" block under the leaf springs to level the truck. It's still slightly lower than the front but at least it's not squatting anymore. I'm still trying to figure out which route to go as I have an ARE topper on the rear, I carry about 100lbs of tools and odds and end in the bed, and I'm thinking about getting a Decked Drawer system. So I'd have a constant load of 450-500lbs in the rear.

After rear and front install 2 inch: rear / 3 inch: front

Yes

similar to factory rake?

@@alex_rodriguez777 I did a 1.5” AAL back in march and it gave me a very very slight rake and I like how it turned out. I’m happy with it.

Great! I have put about 1500 miles on the new setup so far. Day and night difference from OEM and perfect for my setup preference. (Mainly highway miles with the occasional off-roading)

How did it come out?

7 months later. Just installed the exact setup too lol

🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

Rear of truck gained 2 inches. I completed the front coil-overs and UCA the following week, giving the truck 3 inches up front. It is pretty leveled after the complete installation and alignment.

Did you make a video for the front ?

@@miguelibarra6411 apologies for the late response! I did record the front setup install, however I lost some footage. I have to do some editing for the final upload.

That’s a great question! I have a 2019 TRD Sport 4x4. My truck did not have any shims on it from factory so I did not add any shims with this install. I purchased the truck at 27 miles. At this point I am exceeding 46k miles and this is the first time the rear of the truck has been modified. I’m wondering if I will need to add them now that I have the new system installed. It rides great so far. (Smooth with no vibrations)

Not true. This setup is vehicle specific. The boot was designed to sit at the bottom of the shock.