In this video, I take apart my 2nd generation Tama Iron Cobra double bass drum pedal, clean and re-lubricate all the bearings, and replace the footboards with new footboards from the latest Iron Cobra!
Thanks for making this video. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and a drummer so I'm always taking stuff apart on my drum set. I've taken apart single pedals before but never a double pedal. Cool to see how they work. One suggestion: I would use a light assembly lube instead of wheel bearing grease. Grease attracts more dirt because its designed to. If you use an engine assembly lube it helps things slide together but doesn't attract as much dirt.
Great video! I have both a power glide and a rolling glide double pedal, 10-15 years old and have never been cleaned! I never would have been comfortable enough to take them apart before watching this video. They are playing like new!
FYI. The Allen key is the 'L'-shaped tool you are using on hex (or Allen) bolts. Those tiny little screws holding the bearing retaining rings are commonly known as set screws or grub screws with internal hex heads and they usually have either conical, pointed or various types of cup, flat, oval or dog points. In the USA they used to be known as 'Allen Safety Set Screws' because the head of the screw does not protrude from the surface of the item - be that a tool or piece of equipment - and therefore does not catch on hands or clothing. If you have slightly stripped one of them, a little thread lock compound will help secure it. * TIP * You can also use a bit of your girlfriend's nail varnish for this, or even your own if you're that way inclined. It dries up pretty solid, but you can still crank it out if you need to. I think cutting - and tearing - that rubber off was a mistake, so don't do that, folks, it's what we here in the UK call a 'bodge'. You could easily make a tool to cut a perfect circle of rubber away from your screw hole simply by sharpening a piece of appropriately sized piping - copper tube or whatever - with a file. Just file around the end of the tube until you have a razor sharp edge, the pop it onto the rubber and twist. Bingo. BTW, Those sealed bearings look exactly like skateboard bearings and should be cheap and easy to buy. I would definitely replace those on a 15-year-old pedal. While I have some other minor issues with what you're doing here, I don't want to be a total bitch, so you get a thumbs-up and a sub for your trouble!
I have a pair of these tama iron cobras (newer gen.. not sure which model, bought them in 2021) and really enjoy them. Love the beaters they came with, the simplicity of removing the springs if you want to do springless training. They're super smooth and just beautiful shortboard chain-drives (mine). The undersprings, super smooth spring bearings, footplate bearings, and all that have fantastic conservation of energy & swing forever... and they punch like a mofo. favorite training pedal!
Very good video! I just bought a 2nd gen Iron cobra from around 2011 I think. It does have the holes in the bottom so I can mount a cobra coil. The newer cobras doesn't seem to be that much better so I'm glad I saved a lot of money buying a used older cobra in great condition
My favorite look of the iron cobra. They just looked so cool with the black and silver. I might get these used one day. The second gens (from what I heard) they last forever
The Erratic Drummer I've got a set that are 10 years old. Other than slight wear on top of the boards, they still look new and run like the first day I had got em. Kind of miraculous really. In fact, I just bought a set of Eliminator red lines and unfortunately I'm sending them back. I like my Cobras better
Nice interesting video about construction. I have HP200TW and think now about how to fix footboard backlash. It appear because in HP200 havent using rolling bearings in this joinment. First think: replace footboards to cobras, but meh they too expencive! I think I just invent some and order it on factory lol. Maybe it will be bushings made of bronze instead of standard plastic. Or would use little rolling bearings inside heel stand if I finde some that fit. But I want to say some about your video: actualy you don't need do oil that kinde of bearing because they have closed design and grease store in it from factory! One point to using lube here - to simplify assembling process. Also when I reasembled my HP200 I finde that in this pedals using bearings from scateboard/roller Skates! So, if you want, it so cheap to complitely replace it for some ABEC 9 bearings.
Informative and reliable video on a topic that most drummers over look. Preventative maintenance is key to long lasting equipment. You never did use the Neva-Dull though. LOL
Stop me if i'm wrong, but I don't think you need to grease sealed bearings. The grease you found inside the barrel comes from the grease inside the bearing set being expelled over time and the only way to put more in would be to force it in under pressure. That being said I don't think you'd need to, because the factory lubricant would outlast the useful life of the bearing/entire pedal. I used to grease them until I stripped my pedal down and saw how it worked. Still, thanks for the video, there's lot's of play in my connecting shaft and foot plate bearing so need to replace those parts or upgrade.
I agree and also, putting them in grease like that will do absolutely nothing... They are sealed bearings, only oil can penetrate. But lubricating any bearings without cleaning them throughfully is a bad idea because you can introduce small particles behind the sealed part and those will ruin the bearing. With fully sealed bearing like Tama uses (Japan NSK 608Z) you can't really do anything just buy a new if they feel any bad. I just bought professional skateboard bearings, they are the exact same size and they can be cleaned and lubricated.
I believe the 'retaining ring' you speak of on the 19:56 part is actually a spacer ring that should go between the two bearings. Also, you can pop out the plastic part on the shaft 22:00 by using a screwdriver or something like that.
I see what you're saying, and that does make sense, but if you notice at the 12:45 mark, when I took the slave axle apart, the two bearings were in first, then the ring. So, I reassembled the same way.
Pete Green Productions Thx for quick reply. I did see that also. Did you buy the pedal second hand? Try putting bearing-ring-bearing. That way you should have more force to hold the shaft together when assembled on tower and less chance of a complete shaft wobble. Also, the master part of the shaft will not grind inside the slave part.
You know, the more I think about it, the more I think you're right. I bought it new about 12 years ago... I have a feeling I may have put those bearings in like that when I swapped the chain cam for the strap cam, but that was at least 10 years ago, and honestly, there's no wobbling or grinding.
That could be it! Otherwise, there's no use for that ring since there's nothing that's holding it in place. Obviously it can't move to the left since there are bearings. But to the right there's nothing to hold it. If it's between the bearings, then it has a purpose :) Anyway, thanks for a very interesting video. Love that stuff :)
I know this is an old comment but I can confirm while watching this. I took apart my iron cobra 600 and it was bearing, spacer, then bearing. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the video! I'm planning on buying one of the new IC power glides and replacing the cams with the older Flexi-Glide and strap, so this will be very beneficial when I get ready to perform "surgery". Thx!
Great vid man! I plan on taking apart my old set and upgrading them with the newer model footboards. Any chance you can point me in the right direction for the footboards?
Thanks for sharing! I'm about to get back my pedals from a friend and will be doing these steps. However... I'm thinking the bearings can just be replaced! I won't know until I get a chance to take a look. But the size of bearings seem standard skateboard size and so I might put some abec 9 rated bearings in my pedal.
You should absolutely take them apart first! You wouldn't want to get paint on any of the moving parts like the axles, u-joints, springs, bearings, etc... also, you may want to consider having them powder coated. I suspect spray paint wouldn't last too long on the pedals. A good powder coat, on the other hand, should last quite a long time!
Hi! Great job! Thanks a lot for sharing this! I'm thinking about do exactly the same footboard replacement on my Speed Cobras HP910LSW using the one's from the HP910LWN. I couldn't found any place in the internet with the holes spacing for those 2 models in order to see if I can do the same as you did. By any chance you know if that will fit?
I don't know for sure that the newer footboards will fit. However, I looked on Tama's parts catalog, and it looks like the "bottom" two screws will line up. In other words, your current footboards are attached at the heel plate by 3 screws, but the newer footboards use 4... It looks like the bottom two will line up just as they did on mine. And in my opinion, as long as you tighten those 2 screws properly (maybe use some lock-tite) you should be fine mounting the newer footboards with just the 2 screws. Here's a link to Tama's parts catalog: www.tama.com/world/support/parts/hardware/twin_pedal/
@@petegreendrummer Thanks a lot to take the time to answer! It seems to me as well that will fit! I think I'll take the chance. I saw in other video that later on you have replaced the footboard again by the ACD one's. If I may ask, the reason was because of you had the same hinge issue again or was just that you wanted to try a longboard footboard?
@@andreleite770 I did have the same hinge issue again, but keep in mind, it had been about 3 years between those videos, and I had played over 200 shows with the newer footboards, so they held up pretty well! But, I also had just learned about ACD, and I really wanted to try "real" longboards, and the ACD longboards are truly fantastic! If I had known about ACD when I made the first video, I would'nt have bothered with the newer Tama footboards.
Very good video. Extremely helpful. I never thought about replacing the footboards. Any idea what is under that black cap on the right side of the main shaft?
Thanks man! No, I've never removed that cap, but as far as I know, there's just a small piece that holds the footboard-angle-adjustment part on the shaft.
Hey man very cool vid.. i have the HP 200TWB and i haven't cleaned it since I bought them 15 years ago..the only problem is my main pedal doesn't have the two hex bolts on top of the frame for loosing the axle or even have the retaining rings on both sides..how do I remove the bearings..??
Well, I've never owned or used a 200, but looking at some photos, I think you should start by removing the beater angle adjusters. They should just slide off once you loosen the top screw with your drum key, and unhook the spring. I'll bet the axle is held in place by a nut. You may need a wratchet and socket set to remove them. Good luck!
Pete Green Productions Yes. Cobras use standard skateboard bearing sizes. If you Amazon search "Bones reds bearings", you'll find some without the washers and spacers for about $10 (for 8). I'm going to buy them and replace the ones in my cobras as I need to disassemble them anyways.
Hello, FYI inside the small shaft, the right position of bearings is: " bearing - spacer - bearing" and not "bearing - bearing - spacer". Mechanically is better et stronger for radial force on bearings... (at 18:30 in your video)
Hey I buy a Doble Pedal Iron Cobra HP900PSWL is lefty and I want to convert to right side. I detached the pedal but when I get to the part of the ball box(bearing), it feels like pressure and doesn't come out. How can I remove it? And I apply W40 and doesn’t come out thanks for the advice
Sorry man, I'm not familiar with that model. But it "looks" like once you remove the two chrome bearing caps, you should be able to flip the whole axle assembly. Of course, you'll have to remove, reverse, and reinstall the cams and beater rockers, but I believe that would be the same as on my older model. Good luck!
Yes there is! One of the versions of the Iron Cobra that Tama used to sell, was called the Flexi-Glide. It came with straps instead of a chain. It's very easy to switch... You just need to buy the Flexi-Glide cam, as well as the strap, and the holder to connect the strap to the underside of your foot board. Click the link below to go to Tama's hardware-parts catalog, and scroll down to section 5F. You'll need to buy all the parts for the new cam assembly. Your local Tama dealer should be able to order the parts for you! www.tama.com/world/support/parts/hardware/twin_pedal/HP900PSWNRSWNFSWN.html
Yes they are! You can go to Tama's website, and search their online parts directory for the part numbers, and then try to find those parts for sale online... Or, your best bet, would be to shop at your local drum shop/Tama retailer, and they can order the parts for you!
Fantastic vid, thanks! I’ve got an iron cobra double pedal from around 2004 (discontinue) and the clamp has gone funny, do you think that a new clamp for these modern models would fit correctly? Anyone?
Thanks! I'm not sure if the hoop clamp from the current model would fit an older model, but, Tama does have a parts list available online. Just find your model, and look for the part/part number you need. You can order it from any Tama retailer - www.tama.com/world/support/parts/hardware/
Thanks for watching! You're right, with the right tools, it's probably not necessary. But I figured it'd be easier to remove the rubber, than to cut holes large enough for the mounting screws to fit. I should also say, in retrospect, those extra mounting screws aren't even needed.
on the minute 28:18 does the whole mechanism woobles? since tjey are 2 separated rods for left and right beater. i just got the iron cobra 600 used. and i notice some wooble. not sure if normal or if i should return it.
As far as I can tell, the 600. Looks like it has a similar design to the axles, so, I would say once everything is tightened down, there shouldn't be any wobble. Good luck, and thanks for the comment!
@@petegreendrummer i found a fix. inside the left beater rod. there are 2 bearings and a retaining ring as seen here when i tear the pedal down i saw the retaining ring was in the middle. your video shows at the right side. however it did not work. i removed retainng ring and added a third bearing and problem solved! just posting this here in case someone else is having this issue. thanks so much for this video
Honestly, no, not really. But I've since upgraded to ACD Unlimited's longboards, and they made a very noticable difference. If you're looking to upgrade, I recommend checking them out!
@@petegreendrummer I'm considering them. Currently using Axis A21 Longboards for extreme stuff (200-230 bpm) and Speed Cobras for everything else. I think I prefer chain pedals with the standard length boards for the slower stuff. That's why I was considering Iron Cobras + they're cheap. If the ACDs can work great and adjust easy for all styles of music then I'll probably get them. I'll need two single pedals with the drive shaft for when I need to convert into a double. Looks like this is possible. What did you buy and how much did it cost ya? I know they're really expensive,
Which parts did you want to polish? I'm not an expert, but I know that polishing aluminum to a mirror finish requires a combination of sanding and polishing with a buffer, such as a polisher/buffer bit used with a hand held drill.
Good video from Italy!!! Ps: I have one iron cobra HP900PN Rolling Glide single pedal. Is it possibile to transform it in double pedal with some hardware? tanks
Thanks a lot for this video. Is it ok if i use wd-40 to clean and lubricate those bearings? Or can i use contact cleaner? I don't have the stuff you use on the video. I would really appreciate if you could answer.
labigithastaetmeadam I've used wd40 to clean the parts. I don't see a problem with that. But you could also use some white lithium grease to lubricate everything. Anywhere you'd buy wd-40 should also sell either axle grease, or white lithium grease!
Thanks man! Yes, mine is the 900 series. The 200 series is an "entry-level" pedal. So, the materials used are a bit cheaper, and there is practically no ability to make adjustments. You can adjust the beater angle, but not independently of the footboard angle. The hoop clamp is a very basic design and may not fit properly, or clamp down strongly enough on your particular hoop. The 200 is also a single chain, and the hinge on the heel of the footboard is basically just a "pin". So, the combination of those two things means LOTS of side-to-side play in the footboard. On the plus side, it does have a "power" cam, and a two-sided beater. And, it's only $75 on Sweetwater, so you'd likely be able to get it for less from a dealer. I keep one in my hardware bag as a backup.
I have same footboard lose problem too but my pedal(iron cobra hp600) is new and i cant switch another footboard cos i have not. I want to know is it ok to perform live and record with that.
Hi, do to the possibility Tama pedals have of completly disassembling (same thing for Speed Cobra, even if in a different way) do you think is it possible to convert a left-footed double pedal (speed or Iron) in a right-footed one?
Actually, yes! I believe you could convert a 2nd gen pedal from right to left... I can't say for sure though, for the newer iron cobras, or Speed cobras. They have different bearing systems at the top of the frame towers, so I really can't say for sure. But if you have an older pedal like mine, I think it can be done!
Can I ask if on the slave pedal, if you push up on the sprocket bar, is there up and down play? Mine has a good amount... I finally took mine apart... mine must be a generation or two older... I don't have all those all bearings in there. Just the retaining ring, and the main bearing.
No, there shouldn't be any play. If you think you're missing some bearings, get a set of Bones Reds skateboard bearings. You can find them on eBay or Amazon. A box of 8 should only be about 20 bucks or less, and they're the exact size to fit!
@@petegreendrummer I did buy the bearing last night to see if they help. They were bought brand new and never taken apart so I don't think i'm missing any. They just have just wore over time. I looked at the schematic of my older pedals and yeah... they just have one bearing and the retaining ring. I guess maybe that was one of the advancements of the newer models.. tighter tolerances? HOpefully the new bearings help a bit.
@@petegreendrummer Update: got in the bearings. Same problem. Found out its actually the tolerances between my peadals housings and the bearing is not very tight. There is noticeable play up and down and its the entire bearing moving... wondering if there is something I can put in there to kill that slack!
@@glytch5 Sorry to hear that man! If you can, try to video the problem, and upload it to your channel so I can have a look. I'm no expert, but it'll give me a better idea of what's going on if I could see it.
@@petegreendrummer Thanks for the help! PS... my bearing was labeled... these are just 608z bearings, or ZZ if you choose. You could buy super high end dual sealed versions instead of buying skateboard bearing! just type in 608z into amazon or wherever.
I suppose you could, but I think overtime too much dirt and debris would get stuck. I think you'd be better off drenching the chain in WD40, and wiping away the excess. The springs shouldn't need any kind of lubricant. If they're rusty, or making noise, I'd recommend just replacing them.
@@Goathammer666 ok, well first I suggest you completely remove the Allen screws from the cam, and the two from the round piece under the beater, just in case they're getting hung up on the indentations on the axle shaft. Also, give everything a healthy spritz of wd-40, or some other type of penetrating lube, and also perhaps use a flat head screwdriver to gently pry the axle out. Good luck!
Hi, you can order the straps from Tama through your local retailer, however, you will also need to order the Flexi-Glide cams as well! But, if you follow the procedure as I show in this video, you should be able to swap your cams with ease! Good luck!
Doulton Duck I'm pretty sure... The 1st gen was all silver, then came mine, the 3rd gen introduced the cobra coil and the improved main bearings with the chrome top caps, and the 4th gen is currently on sale... I'm not referring to any of the sub models like the 200 or 600 series, or any special editions.
@@petegreendrummer can you link me to where you found the foot boards? I have Emailed tama apart the hoop clamp many times, they never reply and I have not seen one to buy.
@@glytch5 here's a link to Tama's support/hardware catalog for ALL of their double pedals: www.tama.com/world/support/parts/hardware/twin_pedal/ And here's a link to the footboard assembly I installed in the video, from Drumsetc.com (although, they're asking for ALOT more than what I paid) www.drumsetc.com/content/tama-iron-cobra-footboard-assembly-hp90n8
