Hey Matteo, when I compare this with my TRX-4 Kit, I think that the Tamiya way is simpler than Traxxas does it. Traxxas seems more "professional". And now one has the reason why the TRX-4 is much more capable in rough terrain. What do you think about the differences?
L R Personally, I can’t consider this Tamiya to be anything more than an expensive Toy grade RC. Whilst I appreciate technically it’s Hobby grade, the quality and craftsmanship is extremely poor. £50 more gets you the TRX4 sport here in the UK. Way too much plastic with cheap hard tyres makes this Tamiya model poor value for money. Tamiya really need to up their game and stop using cheap materials. The reason their slogan is “not a toy” or whatever it exactly is exists because that’s how many people view their products. I agree with you, Traxxas is just on another level, so are all of the other manufacturers. Tamiya is stuck in the past.
@@ExperienceRC You judge very hard, but in total I'd agree. I made the comparison to Traxxas cause both have a Mercedes G500 in their program. I don't think that the difference is 50,- GBP as you have to buy the bearings as an hopup part, and than there are still no portals, no remotely locking diffs, nor a 2 speed gear. So at the end the TRX-4 is cheaper. Have fun with rc!
From previous experience, you will probably find that a locked front diff is more useful than a locked rear diff. But if you really want an open front diff, try using Tamiya Anti Wear Grease instead of ceramic grease, so the front diff won't spin wildly when one wheel loses traction.
Thank you for the great video. I'll cheer you on!! I will be your fan. You will be my fan. I will share information with you when we are shooting the video.
I’m surprised to see the difs are no longer splined in favor for the 2 flats. Clearly a cost saving measure but I wander what the 2 flats in the shaft will look like after many hours of use.
2-flat interfaces are plenty strong for RC cars, as long as the driveshafts are made of hardened steel. My Axial Wraith has the same interface for its driveshafts and they look great after _years_ of use.
Finally, proper drive shafts! Those look exactly like the Schumacher CAT half shafts. They should work very well. Should you also apply a drop of oil in the bearings?
@@deusexaethera Yes those with rubber seals are pre-lubed but I believe those without seals (with metal dust shields) are left dry at the factory - or perhaps they have minimal lubrication applied to prevent rust. To be safe, I've always applied a drop of two of oil then cleaned the outer surfaces of the bearing before assembly to prevent it collecting dust.
As the first to watch the WHOLE Video, I am enjoying this Series! I agree with you on leaving the Front Diff unlocked. I would use a WERY thick Diff Grease in front (500,000-1 Million CST!). That helps both Front Wheels pull, and is thick enough not to all leak out! Carmine ✈🚂🚙🎄🎅
Interesting that they opted for multi-section, plastic frame rails instead of one-piece aluminium versions, perhaps purely an excuse for a hop-up option. The change from a splined driveshaft to differential connection in favor of a simple twin-flat design is obviously a result of cost-engineering, it will be interesting to see how that change holds up to wear.
