i didnt do it the exact same way you did, i was a bit more, conservative with how much glue i used, even as little of it as you used. and just tapped a few little pinpoint spots on the decals. and yeah, it worked fine. i let it dry for about give minutes and then checked it and, yeah, it made the decals that i was having issues with adhere properly, which was a relief. So while i more or less winged it after i saw your videos title, the fact you uploaded this gave me the confidence to do so, so thank you!
Thank You for taking the the time to do this OUTSTANDING tutorial! A massive help with a Checkerboard Decal- (hah- I was born in Canada- raised in the boarder in Windsor/Detroit- we’re all “Can-Am’s” here!) on a 1:48 Tamiya 4:54 P-51D…. I painted all the invasion stripes (excellent) etc- BUT- I’m a bit dodgy with hands/eyes/alignment on an area for Checkerboard this small… (I used DRAW Decals)- excellent product- anyone out there- for ONCE should have used the Tamiya DECALS as the Checkerboard is already “split” in two… Also stupid enough NOT TO Citi the single Checkerboard decal strip! Though I could as I already laid the rest down perfectly: Bad move. If you have to Decal a long curved section- cut it first… Thank You Rebels at Cloud Nine- Cheers- JW, Grosse Pointe, MI. USA-
Unfortunately I just did that but I didn't record it. That's called "bleaching the decals". Depending on how yellow and old the decals are you can tape them into a window that comes into contact with lots of sunlight. The sunlight will bleach out the yellow. I usually leave them in for a week or 2. It's not a total fix as a lot will depend on the decals and how they've aged. But on the decals I recently bleached I basically got them back to their original state after a week. I'll do my best next time I come across this to do a video on it.
@@rebelsatcloudnine G'day again, Rebel, Yes the the sunlight trick does work. The good bloke that runs Old Model Kits suggests this for old decals that have been sealed in boxes for many years. Yes, it's odd they fade in the dark but they do. An intense shot of sunlight with a bit of heat works wonders. About a week works for me down here in Tasmania, even in winter because we have particularly sunny winters. I've subscribed now and 'rang the bell'. Cheers, BH
I was going to say, that faded effect looks pretty realistic. I suppose that might depend on the area you touch up but, this is still a neat little trick.
Great idea! I was too afraid to do it with Tamiya Extra Thin but I've had success with Tamiya Extra Thin Quick setting . I have been following you for quite a while and like it better when you talk during your videos
Hi J, great stuff, it's another technique to learn about this fabulous hobby of ours. Thank you very much for sharing. Hope your family and you are all OK and staying safe
Thanks Steve, I hope that you are doing good as well. It's a scary technique, but it did save me my B-17 project so I'm really grateful for that. Now if those blasted wheels would just arrive in the mail.
Try acetone, pure. It works much better. I tried with cement but I prefer acetone. Acetone has super low surface tension, that makes it run in between the decal and the paint and melt them without damaging neither of them. Result is perfect and you have less risk of ruining the model.
Thank you so much for this tip, I’ve just built my first model for 35 years and almost all my decals have silvered? I can only think it’s because I used satin varnish?, anyhow it has worked, a quick wipe of Tamiya extra thin has sorted it, just got to see how they look once it has dried,
Great technique. Thank you so much for sharing. I will immediately try on very hard decals on my Camel model from Academy, where no decal water worked. Greetings. Aleš 😎👍
Great short tutorial! Those small decals can be a real bugger. I've seen you do it, I saw the exact process, and I'm confident I can make it work. This will be a very useful new tool for me. Thank you for sharing it. Go Oilers! [÷)
Thanks for watching and leaving the comment. I was surprised by how well this method actually worked. And on the Finished B-17, most of the silvering is all gone :)
Once again, great video, Jared. The close-up camera work was spot on! Nice music, too. I agree with the guy who commented before me: I like it better when you're talking in the video. Besides being more informative, you have a relaxing, FM Radio voice! 😉 😊 P. S. I'll be sure to try that decal setting trick! I wonder will it work on..... (Gulp) ACADEMY DECALS?! 😱
I'll just have to buy a microphone then, well once work comes back. These decals were pretty stubborn, so I think they'd work fairly well on Academy, I don't have any to test out but I'm very curious about that.
Using cement as a decal solvent is something I’ve been doing for a while now on the more stubborn of decals; a teeny bit of cement - often diluted with water - often aids me in making a decal form, fold and sink along all kinds of shapes.
great video! i also was listening to the on the bench podcast about this. i wonder how this works on academy decals that are not made by cartagraf. ive tried everything on academy decals to try to get them to conform.
Thanks JJ, I've yet to try them out as well, as I had a horrid experience with decals like that from Academy, and on a B-17. Given the results I had here with the Revell kit I think that it would work out quite well, with the proper care. One of these day's I'll have to give it a try as I'm curious to see how it would do.
G'day Rebel, This is very interesting and I can see the point of what you're doing. It does work. I've only seen a couple of your videos as I'm just about to, finally, subscribe. Please let me ask you this question. During this video I was able, thanks to your great close-ups, to look closely at the painted surfaces. Generally, I think that there is an ever so slight texture to your finished camo painted areas, especially. Not enough to be called 'orange peely' but a texture none the less. Now, I've just finished watching your build of the Airfix 1/72 Lancaster BIII. A very good job but I did note you didn't use a primer, like Stynylrez, on that model. IF, it is your habit of not using a primer, then I started to think that, just perhaps, in THIS video you may not have had such an obvious texture effect if you had used primer, and, you may not have had such a rare problem with your decals settling into lines and details of this model. So, finally, my questions: do you use primer on all your models? If so, was there a reason that you didn't use a primer on the BIII Lanc? If you don't use a primer routinely, could you please tell me why? I remember a while back, it was suggested to me to always use a good primer and then let it cure for two or three days, depending on the weather. I was amazed by the difference it made. Stynylrez is an acrylic primer and it truly does make any coat of paint you apply right after that look so much better. The adhesion of the first light coat of paint is almost like the Stynylrez makes the plastic 'magnetic' to paint. Subsequent, light coats have a much better coverage and intensity without filling up the panel lines and other fine surface detail. You can brush it over small parts for a better paint coverage or, as I've done with several models, sprayed all the sprues with Stynylrez after I've washed and dried them. It doesn't seem to inhibit the use of glue, (I mainly use Tamiya Extra Thin too) like some paints can. It comes in several colours, however, I generally use black as it’s a good colour to use if you’re going to paint ‘bare metal’ paints on your aircraft. This is not an 'ad' for this product, using any brand of primer with a reputation for a good, hard cure will do the trick. Anyway, that's a lot to dump on you so, I'll understand if you don't get to see this comment and don’t reply. I'll go subscribe now. Cheers, BH
I'll stick with pronouncing it (dee-cal) as (deckle) is something used in paper making. As long as people know what your talking about pronounce it how you will.
I ruined my decals and I damaged my paint job using extra thin some months ago. I used an old trick instead..dip the end of a Qtip in water, stick it to a hot iron, let it fizzle then stick it on the stubborn decal..decals are afraid of a hot cotton bud.,!! Take care .
Thankfully Academy are using Cartograf decals these days, but I was wondering that as well. But after another B-17 incident years back, I've stayed away from the more difficult older Academy decals.
@@rebelsatcloudnine damn right. Building an original boxing of their 1/48 Sabre, and just looking at the yellow ID stripes brings on a bout of PTSD from the time I built that kit in 2003.
TRANSFERS, dang it... TRAAAAANSFERS... (only joking) ;) Interesting way of decalling... I think I will stick to (pun intended) what I know though, i.e Johnsons KLEAR or PLEDGAE.. It works best for me! But yes, an interesting way of doing it.. :) Just worried I would cause more damage than good though, if I were to try it.. :)
These were the most stubborn decals, I had a good gloss coat, and I spent a week using various solvents to try and get the decals to work. But just a few minutes with the glue and they were stuck to the model and looking great. It was kind of freaky.
And here I thought that this was some kind of sick late April Fool's joke! lol Oh, I guess how you pronounce "decals" doesn't bother me because I watch a lot of British stuff and they say things like PrEYEus, and Celeeka. No worries, my friend.
I never would have thought yo use the cement. All ways ask the dictionary. www.dictionary.com/browse/decal?s=t Just a little fun banter. It really doesn't natter how any one pronounces the word "DECAL'
Potatoes potato Dee-cals decals. All world says that to here in usa its Dee- cals. If they run in awall would you do the same because the hole world do it too! Think it about.
SMH. Didn't you even look at the word "decal" on dictionary.com? It lists both pronunciations. [ dee-kal, dih-kal ] The second one is how R@C9 pronounces it, dingus.
Yes because thats the way the Brits say it, it must be so! NO, for me there is no such thing as last resort for my model that I took a ton of time to meticulously build and the take the chance of ruining it because I was either to cheap, lazy or otherwise impatient to do it right. Sorry but using this to set decals does not even come close to the level of common sense. What are you going to try next, vinegar?
Ok bell end how do us Brits say it? You travel 10 miles in Britain and the accent is totally different.. so stop chatting shit. You got no model builds in essence your opinion is worthless, compared to someone who took the effort to produce one ☝️ then upload it for you to whinge like a little girl in the comments section. Do us a favour upload a video so can criticise and pick at.. it will be a laugh
Kevin, you are an awesome model builder. Doing every step right, every time is remarkable and I heartily congratulate you for that! I like the fact you're not cheap, have a strong work ethic, and...patience is one of the heavenly virtues! I'd like to be pals with a master craftsman, but you seem like a bit of a dick.
