For a heavier duty fix I made two 1/8" prices of g-10 plate fiberglass and bolted them to the sides of the plates on the lower three screws like a sandwich with a washer between so the the fiberglass peices can be fully tightend down and hold the plates firmly in place with no spreading. It adds a little weight but the plates will not spread and the the transmission spins freely with no binding.
Nice, I'm going to try this first before spending $65 on the mip ball diff. I'd rather put that money towards another tamiya rc. Ty for the video. Ok its a few days later, I did it and it works perfect! Im also using an older novak havoc brushless system. Holds up well
Thank you so much for this. It works an absolute treat, am very happy thank you. I run a torque tuned and it has more than enough power and speed and now no more diff clicking hurray!!
Awesome video!! I bought a monster beetle off eBay, and they forgot to mention the gearbox was no good.... I followed you're video and now she runs sweet! Thank you so much for sharing this.
That's a GREAT idea, on several counts! I've been using those Traxxas shims to fix a LOT of Tamiya's SLOP sections. (I want to add, I've loved Tamiya RC vehicles since 1984! Their small shortcomings are EASILY dealt with) Your idea deals with that issue in a clever, but simple way! Thanks for sharing. I just subbed you! My channel is brand new. I should be uploading videos soon. Meanwhile, I've made lists of quite a few gtrat, simple fix videos from others, to share - now including yours! ~ Carmine
OldfartRC Man I really appreciate it!! You are exactly right with Tamiya kits. It seems like sometimes they need that extra little something. Can't wait to see your vids!!
This is amazing!! Thank you! Is there any particular reason that the washer has to be Teflon? Would just a normal steel washer of same size also do the job?
My God. I had a Tamiya Frog in the late 80s as a teen and the gearbox looked the same. It developed that click and grind. Couldn’t figure out how to fix it and lost interest in the car. A kid at school did end up telling me to super the diff but by that stage I was in senior year and focused on getting into University. I had no idea the problem was the side gearbox plates. It sure if I could have figured out the fix if I did know.
Nordic RC Visions I did. While I'm ecstatic MIP is making cure all, absolutely bullet proof diff, my internal tightwad wouldn't let me spend 60 beans on a part time driver. Yet :) If this starts to fail, MIP may be the way I go.
this shimming will help a lot, the aluminum side plates blow outwards though. we used to scuff them up with dremel and JBweld big thin fender washers to the outsides of those side plates to stop the flexing, grind notches where needed for the screws, throw some paint at them, reassemble. washers 7/8 ID and near 2" OD, about 1/16 thick. Tamiya's fault not making the side plates thick enough to keep the gears together tight.
Hello Jay, thank you for the great video. I just bought the Tamiya MB and the traxxas 1985 shims. Maybe noob question but do you put the shims on both sides of the diff or only one shim? Thx in advance
I think I added to both sides, but check your diff action. If it is too tight after you assemble the trans case, take one out. You're welcome, glad I can help!
