In this video I prepared and painted a Tamiya re-release hard body shell using the alternative vintage red and yellow colour scheme found on the vintage box art. To finish this beauty off, I used reproduction decals.
@@ralphhowing3473 Thanks for watching and the great comment. Yeah, I was wondering if I’d wasted many hours again lol. I’m literally in the middle of doing another one, and just unmasked it at the weekend, I think it’s come out even better! I hope to get it up on here in a few weeks. Also working on the Grand Hauler mini series at the same time.
Thank you, sir. Mine's going on a RC crawler but I want a paint scheme to wow my friends. I've been painting models for many, many years and you've thrown a few tricks in my tool box. I was thinking about clear coat but you saved me! BTW, I'm 74, shaky hands, etc. Love your magniying light.
@@garybeckwith9045 no problem Gary, I’m in my 50’s and learning all the time. Shaky hands too so masking where ever possible is a must for me. I have a couple of magnifying lamps, both found on eBay quite cheaply. Good luck with the project and glad to be of some help! Jase.
Oh man, so cool. Same colours I did my first VW in as well, way back then. I did a green and white one as well before I did the blue and white. I had a few solid coloured ones as well. Fairly sure I had 10 VW bug bodies done, cannot recall all the liveries, but my Dad would just shake his head every time I came home with another body set.. 😄🥲
Sounds about right. I think I remember paying around £15 for a body set for my Rough Rider because I flipped it and snapped the spot lights off the roof 🤣
Great work, you've inspired me to start a project I've been sitting on for a while. Just one thing, if not to your taste no worries, but running boards in matt black would complete an already stunning build.
@@philthompson5968 100% agree Phil and I think I mentioned doing it. In all honesty I just didn’t want to mess it up right at the end! I’ve literally just finished doing another one and I think it’s even better. Look out soon for the 2.0 version video. Let me know how you go with yours and thanks for watching!
@@jason.bochniak Cool! Looking forward to V2, you can follow along with my project here www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/106852-vintage-redyellow-ss-resto-prototype-early-ad-car/ hoping it comes out 1/2 as good as yours!
Hey, this is an awesome video! - focussed, no music! You actually show how you work on it, what materials exactly you use and how much time it takes. This reminds me again to stay patient and that it's worth to work as carefully as possible. I have painted the corners of the window frames, sticking on wider tape and cutting it along the edge with a scalpel. After painting the corners, I have done the straight bits, like you did. Worked out nicely too.
Thanks! Glad you liked it and it was of some use. Hopefully your project comes out well. I do spend way too much time on these things but there’s no rush and I’d rather have them done well. I did a Ford Ranger after this and filmed the pairing etc to try and show a bit more detail.
Thanks great tips, going to help me with my sand scorcher as I'm used to the clear p/c body's the come out as shinny as a new penny, the hard body's I paint look horrible the shin is atrocious, so I end up using a mat finish. Thanks again, Ralphie
@@ralphhowing3473 Thanks Ralphie, I’m no expert, I just make it up as I go along. I hope the video helps you out. I’ve found with each one done, I get a little better. Maybe check out my Ford Ranger videos too. They are also hard bodies. I’m currently in the middle of another Sand Scorcher paint job and if it comes out well enough, I will share.
Came out looking sweet . If I remember correctly I gave rc decals the set for him to reproduce , I live 5 minutes away from him lol . Had a very similar experience doing my Tamiya Ranger, paint reaction as it was almost done. Full strip back and redo . Scorcher looks great
@@jason.bochniak no worries fella. Yea it is a small world. Supplied Mark with a few sets of decals and helped get colours etc near as poss to correct. I have done one Ranger with huge help from Keith at RCicons and not doing another 😅. Hopefully getting a video done to thank Keith and show my Ranger off on my friend Glenn's channel, Riviera RC
Say hi to Mark if you see him, I messaged him to say I was going to mention him. I had no plans to do another one but it came up on eBay and was literally about 15 minutes from home so I had to have it. Australia is a big place and I thought what were are the odds? The guy had had it from new when he was kid, well used and falling to bits. Had all the original working radio gear too. It’s been stripped, cleaned and rebuilt with brand new old stock shock set, bumper, well nuts, mechanical speed controller, ball ends, ball races, motor & gear covers, wheels and tyres and the cherry on top will be the new old body set and decals. It’s interesting how many differences there are between the MK1 & MK2. The questions is box art or something different 😬
@@jason.bochniakcan't be too many new old shells around. Damn lucky find . I did mine box art but different colours. Ford Roman Bronze body colours and Ford Champagne Gold side bars . Side bars were painted rather than decals. Hopefully get video done and on Glenn's channel
That sounds cool, you should get it uploaded and shared for us all to see. This one was painted like a brown colour. I think Keith’s addiction has rubbed off because I’ve also got a complete new in box MK1 Ranger body set. All the bags are still sealed, even the decals. I bought it to go with my MK1 and never build or paint. I’d love to know if the decals have stick but the sellotape is still on the bag for them too
I like it. There’s so many cool schemes you can do with these. I’d have to have multiple bodies if I had one because I’d have to do stock and then a 70’s baja scheme
Thanks mate, same here. The reason I had this body set is because I bought a painted one off another guy, complete with full LED lights installed, I didn’t think I could do it properly myself. When it turned up I then bought a full re-re kit to put it on which came with a body so I decided to have a crack and do a different colour.
Superb work, but the Tamiya paint scheme is incorrect for this type of taillights (from '62 to '67 model years). In the real VW Bugs were only two colors: red with orange top section (turn signal, european version), or all red (US-spec. model).
Thanks mate, good to know, I didn’t know US lights were all red. The vintage box art does show all red on the rear lights but I was following the new re-re directions for the lights. I have a spare set of light pods so could do again in solid red.
Your level of detail is stunning! The method you used to paint the yellow first is great, do you think to do the box art colours it would work the same way? Blue first then mask up then white over blue?
Thanks Matt, I spent way too long on it! Great question. My only concern is how well the white would cover the blue. Blue over white is always going to take less coats. I’d probably test first on a spare piece of sprue or plastic. After masking I’d apply a light coat of blue to seal the masking lines, let it dry, quick sand with 1500 then light dry coats of white with time in between then a nice final thicker coat. I think either way is not easy, this body paint scheme is one of the hardest to do. I’m currently working on a MK2 Ranger, mid painting and have managed to film a fair bit of painting for the next video, should be up in a few weeks. Good luck with the project and keep me up to date!
@@jason.bochniak I will give it a go on a scrap piece first to see how well the white covers the blue, I’m not really holding much hope but I maybe wrong, I’ll keep you posted
Cool. I recon it would need at least 3-4 coats or just do the white first. I also have a Rough Rider in the queue to do in the blue and white scheme, I’ll do the white first. I’d also leave the paint to harden for at least a week before masking, two to be safe otherwise the tape will leave marks in the paint.
Yes the white tape is really flexible. It’s Tamiya “Masking tape for curves”. Comes in 2, 3 & 5mm thicknesses. I used 3mm on here. The other tape is also Tamiya and goes from 1mm up.
