I don’t race trucks so it is so interesting to see the comparison between different Cars and there setups… It would be brilliant to see more videos like this . Keep up the good work 👍👍👍p.s (have a happy new year)
that was a really well put together and informative video! I esp liked the overlays you put up with part names and numbers on, buying the correct parts can be riddled with anxiety for a lot of peeps new to the hobby so that was a good shout. Much love and all the best for the new year!
Great video. Love the editing of the moving buttons of parts with part numbers. Great touch Carl....Great tips. PS. Yeah good one to leave "negative Mark "out of the scene. Lol😂
Hi guys. I’ve been following you for a few years and love the content- but this is amazing. Like lots of others I’m coming back to the hobby and so much has changed since the 80’s. It’s so refreshing to see a video that explains the absolute basics. Please please can we have some more of this type of video. It truly helps even simple explanations of set up radio gear and esc etc. many thanks and keep up the great work - Marcus from essex. 👏
It's actually the chroming process Tamiya uses that make the plastic brittle. I epoxied my rear wheels as soon as I got the kit. Been racing my truck over 10 years now and never broken one.
I did run the Rlaarlo transmitter on 4x AAA baterys. Well that doesnt work at all, it keeps shutting down. Its a great transmitter but you do need a 2s lipo to power it
This is a excellent video. I agree that it's a great class. Your tips are excellent1. You mentioned that different tracks or clubs have different rules. If a new person plans to run at the same place they should check the rules for the track they're going to race. Some have different rules about hop ups. I think the tip about the M Chassis wheels is a great one. The center of the stock rear wheels break very easily. Some people in my area run the stock front wheels both front and rear. This video is a great idea. I hope you and your family have a wonderful and healthy new year.
Great video! I think you did a video before about gluing the body so that it doesn't turn into a headless horseman 😂. I just bought the yeah racing shocks and they leak out of the tops. I may put some plumbers thread tape to see if that fixes the problem. Have they ever leaked on you?
Merry christmas guys , Thanks for the setup video can you say what you put in the diffs. Interesting you run harder springs in the rear most cars have the front springs harder than the rear.
Nice informative video 👍 I’ve been looking at getting into racing and the trucks seem to be a good place to start One question I’m unsure about is “transponders” do you need one to race and if so are they all the same and am I correct in saying I need a spare channel on the receiver for it ?
Most RX's are min 3 channels so there's normally a spare one for the transponder. However perfectly ok to use a Y lead if you already have a fan plugged in. Check your local clubs class rules before spending money on upgrades as some, like mine, only allow min mods e.g.bearings in place of bushes, motor cooling etc
Its cheaper as always with Tamiya just to buy a new kit when you need a new body shell, that bitty design body shell is banned at most UK clubs anyway. As Mark would say its a 'benders body shell' ! ............... just buy a new kit, that way you get a new shell, fresh motor, new tyres and a lot of needed useful spares !
@@PopalongRCTrue but the majority major racing teams (1:1) buy two cars, sometimes three with a two car team just for spares. Buying it piecemeal cost more than buying another car. If you tend to have lots of breakage then I would say he's right.
Morning boys, I'm running this class now , only had a few meetings but the main problem is that I have had is Over steering. iv already done all of these mods too.... Last meeting I added lead to the rear Axel which helped but I then smashed a wheel off. Also half shafts what are you using? I've got ally ones and plastic but the ally seam to snap pretty easily. I'm thinking about going back to Tamiya ones.
Whats your steering rate set to. Usually two things with trucks, glue front tire walls, and steering rate. You can do a bit with car weight balance, but generally the biggest benefit is in front tirewall gluing and setting the steering rate lower.
@@tm5123 umm my steering rate, I'm not sure. Do you think I need some expo on the lower end. I already have the sidewalls glued up on the front. I don't have any grip roll issues. The best I have had it running is with the lead weight over the rear. Still wasn't great
@@adamknight6752 Try setting the steering rate to like 85% and give it a go. You can also put less grip sauce on the front tires. And, since this class in your country apparently allows for oil shocks, put harder shocks in the front, and softer in rear, to give you more rear grip. But I'd suggest starting with the steering rate. Its pretty common that people drive around with 100% steering rate ruining their driving.
The club I race at doesn't use additive.....my front diff is Very stiff but not locked ( wink wink ) I also have glue on the front side walls. I am running the Tamiya shell tho.
What’s the part number of the etronix servo you mentioned please? (ET2045?)Just about to start building the fat fox truck, will probably never race so keeping costs as low as possible. Also love the radio gear you mentioned (am VERY tempted-how much are extra receivers for this please)but also want to fly my aircraft again so may go for the 2 stick approach and get a Spektrum dx6? What receiver would you recommend (have only ever used 27&35mhz-yes I’m old 😅)
Hi Carl, I don't have a truck yet but what part no. do you have for the M chassis wheels you suggest for upgrading to and kg rating of the servo, thanks Allan.
