One thing I was thinking might cut your kerf cutting time down some: after a cut, before you move your fence, spin your material 180 and make a cut at the other end as well. That way you can work from both ends towards the middle rather than from one end all the way to the other. It might mess up the cut spacing in the middle, but if you're filling the gaps with Bondo anyway, it shouldn't matter I don't think. Just my 2 cents, hope it helps you cut down your work time some!
I'm on a *Rod & Custom* channel to see how to properly make Kerf Cut Wood custom shapes. Love it. Although, if I could recommend a Woodcrafting trick: make a Tablesaw sled that is keyed, to slot the last kerf cut in the key after every cut, like the keyed sleds that are designed to cut box finger joints. This makes it easier for you by not having to adjust the Tablesaw fence repeatedly, and also keeps your cuts consistent for smoother radiuses. And also, if you flip the kerf cut side to be underneath, or rather, if you make the kerf cut side to be on the side that has the most concave surface, then it would require the least glue/filler material to bond the wood back into a whole shaped sheet again. But that could also require planned cutting of reliefs (size and proximity) to make sure that your kerf cuts would allow the desired radius.
You can buy thin MDF pre curfed for wrapping around curved frames. Glue smooth side out with Gorilla. Cut another layer to glue on the inside. Weight it down while glue dries.
I think you put that on upside down my friend. The reason for this technique is to present the uncut surface to world and have the cut surface on the inside where it can't be seen.
You're missing the point that the "ribs" would conflict with one another and not allow the curve if converse. an angled curf would allow this, but that can be time consuming and/or require a skill level most don't have. The way he demonstrates is overall the fastest way to reach the design depicted (from a labor stand point) for most people. I usually do bent lamination, but this is a great alternative and is demonstrated properly given the design set forth in the video. Other ways are possible though.
Great work and thank you for sharing the secrets of custom work. Just need a little more lighting in you videos and turn down your music. I have to turn up the volume to hear you speak and then the music is too loud. Love the videos man thank you again
Was thinking of using similar technique for curving the stringers for a gothic fence I am building in my front yard except using epoxy to fill the voids. Amazingly there is nothing on RU-vid mentioning the technique, yours was the closest. Any thoughts on this idea? Aside from that I appreciated your video, keep up the creativity, nothing but love here from Los Angeles! Lastly you should but the music info in the description, excellent choice and wouldn't mind checking the artist out.
Love the digital fence gauge... I was wondering if you just didn't care how accurate you were... No one that I know trusts those stuck on measuring systems
Would a piece of flex board be too weak for your purposes? It seems like it would be much easier and less labor. Either way thank you for the instructional video. It was useful
Why on earth would you not use Bendy Ply for this application, the job would be done in minutes, of course it maybe 58 of them but still got to be quicker
Is the type of wood important? I’ve been trying this on particle board for practice and I can never get it to bend as much as I need it to. I have tried deeper cuts/closer together and the end result is always the same
I was thinking the same thing. Everyone always has a their way of doing things when their not the one actually showing you. It’s kinda like having a back seat driver😊
When you cut that hole while the board is flat your cut is going to distort once it is on a curved surface. It might not fit if your tolerances are tight. Cool video though thanks for sharing!
You could save yourself a lot of tine instead of readjusting your fence every cut if you make you fluo the board around every other cut. Make a kerf on one then rotate 180 degrees make second kerf and you only have to readjust every other cut.
Use pre slotted MDF. It’s thin so use one sheet outside and another inside. Cut slots facing. Gorilla glue or PVA hold the top layer with tape. Weight down the inside layer.
The scrap that you had left over from your left and right sides could be used to do that easier. Build a box similar with the scraps. Then put both of them on their sides. Put the kerf cut board in between them and clamp it all together. I suspect you are using superglue to get it to adhere quickly when you have it in place because you are having a hard time clamping/holding it while the wood glue dries. Try my suggestion on the next one and let me know how it goes. Best of luck.
Bondo is an epoxy filler material that fills in the cut out sections of the MDF and gives it more structural stability that was lost by removing material by cutting. MDF is normally never left bare in a finished project so the surface appearance doesn't matter much, it's normally painted or wrapped in something like vinyl for visual aesthetics while the MDF itself acts as a strong support material that is unaffected by heat unlike wood.
nice! and i see from the tablesaw you know what you are doing however, you need a warning to the newbies that might try this. i dont recommend you freehand push such a long piece and as you progressed i was just waiting for something to catch and kickback at you. i can do this cuz i know my saw and been doing it for 20 some years ( still got all my fingers ) but someone who isnt experienced may try this and spend the next few hours listening to his wife telling him how stupid he was, long broad crosscuts should always be done with a sled. ok nuff said and that was a pretty nice way to make that console.
First things first. Wrong side. Those kerfs will telegraph through the finish. You could have ran a shallow dado down the length and added an eternal band for strength and to hold shape.or use 2 layers of curf board to avoid the bondo
Диз , гибкую панель ставят на такие детали пропилами вниз , растояние между пропилами делайте чаще , 10мм. Ваша шпатлевка это влага и она даст МДФ набухнуть.
Not true, using the technique described in the video he could only bend it the way he did. Other techniques would allow a converse bend, but not the one depicted.
He's hopefully figured out it's better, cheaper and faster to put the kerfs down. But what do I know I've only owned a cabinet shop for 25 years. If he would build a sled his life would change. Dramatically.
