Donboy is the man, have always done my own repairs and such, I build several 2 stroke snowmobile engines, but have learned a ton from donboy on these little 4strokers,
George, I have actually used JB weld, to repair a busted housing. Worked great. Coated inside and out. Just be sure all the oil is cleaned out of the inside. and clearance.. against moving parts and the repaired wall.
I just had someone give me an Ariens ST824 with a Tecumseh 8hp. Same thing blew a hole in it. great machine to tinker on. Like all your videos. Very well done with spot on detailing. Thanks again.
I have one that I can't get to throw snow. Starts up idles well... Seems to run up on throttle well... but when it gets into snow..it just Doesn't throw it.. a few feet is all. When I ran it a couple years ago last.. I don't recall it bogging/ theottling down when in the snow.. just no power. Makes me Think Maybe 3xhaust valve is too tight...not letting valve close. I have a craftsman 10 horse tecumseh as well... it won't run hardly at all.. new carb even I am Quite sure it Def is the valve issue in that one.. as the exhaust gets red, back fires a bit etc. Can smell the gas in exhaust.
@@donyboy73 old thread i know. Any response to my comment i made about my 824.. see comment below. Runs well.. no power in snow. I am Thinking exhaust valve issue? But can't do leak down..no tester
I've got my grandfathers 1970 Briggs 3.5hp engine. Very rusty and it dosent have the fueltank/carb/airfilter anymore. I could send it to you there in Muskoka Ontario Canada, but there is hardly any point to do something like that. I'm sure you have engines like that quite many thousands over there.
I love these old tear down videos. Seeing the inner workings of an engine is kinda neat. Makes me wish I knew more about small engine repair and mechanics in general. Eh?
George you want to double check the timing marks between the camshaft and crankshaft. Also these engines have a automatic decompression actuator mounted onto the exhaust lobe on the camshaft make its intact. They will kick back hard,and may not start even with electric start.
Good Autopsy!. I've done a few Briggs IC and even a Honda GX340 and the story is always the same. over-revved, big end or counter balance lets go and BOOM!.
Mine started knocking, I added a tablespoon of STP goop. Still runs but I should check the valves clearance as the muffler glows red and seems to lack in power. Maybe people don't do that and try to make it rev higher trying to make it throw snow farther.
My neighbor's old Craftsman riding mower with 8hp Tecumseh threw a rod the other day while he was cutting his yard. The broken piece of the connecting rod landed on his roof, and there's now a ~3" diameter hole in the side of the block!
Hi There, Really appreciate you offering these information videos. I have a 9hp Tecumseh motor off my Craftsman Snowblower. I have just swapped the short block as I blew the connecting rod. I have completed the exchange and now have an issue with the manual pull start. When I pull on the handle, the motor feels as though it "pulls back" the cord not allowing the motor to turn over. Any idea what I may have done incorrectly? Again thanks for the videos. George
I have a mower with a Kolher 22 HP ,and I always put a bit of oil in the fuel tank , about a half ounce per gallon of gasoline,2 cycle oil mostly, in the fuel even though it is a 4 stroke. I broke the engine in that way to help the piston rings seat better . .. I have had it for 5 and a half years and the motor oil very rarely ever needs to be topped off or changed because the piston rings and cylinder are precisely tight with no blow back,and the oil stays clean,and I would bet that the cross hatch marks are still in the cylinder wall ..I think it has more compression now than it did after the first 2 years of use....
+Robert Diehl I've got a yamaha 225dx 3 wheeler, would using a few drops in the gas help free up the oil ring. The thing is burning oil in large amounts at a time and I think the ring might be stuck due to carbon or gunk. The thing sat for 3 years and when it was revived, the engine was seized.
Both Tecumseh and Briggs and Stratton have 2 versions of all their engines. One version has a soft pot metal cylinder liner, and connecting rod. This is a regular engine, not a commercial engine. You want to see "I/C" for industrial commercial or you want to see "Cast iron cylinder liner." If you don't see those things on the outside cover, then it's unlikely that it will last for more than 30 hours of hard use. The engine will start to wear out the moment you use it. Aluminum cylinder bores are only meant for occasional use, and not for heavy duty use.
What do you think got this engine? Low oil, dirty oil, or, over revving? The rod throw journal on the crank shaft clearly looks like it didn't get enough oil.
Can you use parts off a 10 hp tecumseh on a newer 10 hp tecumseh moter I have a husqvarna snowblower I picked up from the dump it is missing the head and piston and but everything else is there I am not sure where to look for identification. But any knowledge is greatly appreciated. Thanks
@motorhead45102 i prefer briggs on lawnmowers, tecumseh on snowblowers. but now all the blowers come with briggs which are good now on blowers and chinese engines. i wasn't too crazy of the old briggs on snowblowers.
The repair parts prices for Briggs and Tecumseh engines are insane on purpose to discourage repairs and this is one reason why Tecumseh is no longer in business and Briggs is losing market share to Chinese Honda clone engines.
I got one like that from a guy, who thought of revving the engine would throw the snow further. Off course, Tecumseh blocks fails behind the starter (Most of the time)...I will repair one as an experiment.
If a person had cheap access to a TIG welder, you could aluminum weld a patch over the hole in the block, my son did it on a 5 horse Briggs. Before doing this though, you have to make sure there is no other major damage, like to the camshaft bushings, or long cracks in the block. Though I would only recommend this if a new or used block is way to expensive. Of course you will also need a usable crankshaft, con rod and piston. It is too bad that so many of the 8 and 10 hp Tecumseh snow king engines blow their mind this way, since Briggs snow blower engines are much more rare. I think Dony is right, usually this is the result of running the engine low on oil and heating the con rod bushing up resulting in galling of the bushing then ever increasing clearance until it pounds itself apart. If the crankshaft isn't damaged other than having aluminum melted onto it, you can sand it off, or eat it off with drano (better read up on how to do that first!), polish it, and reuse the crank. I did that successfully on a 4 hp Briggs riding mower engine, got another 10 years out of it. The most economical way to have another 10 hp engine may be to locate another scrapped engine and try to build a working engine from 2 or 3 of them, but whatever you do, the con rod clearance on the crank MUST be no more than what the spec. calls for or it will lunch itself again in short order!
I’m curious I have 10 Hp. It runs fine . But the problem is it won’t shut off even if Take the key out. Or turn the throttle off. What should I do to fix that ?
If you look, you'll see metal transfer on the crank. The only way you get that is heat, And the only way you get that heat is low oil. When an engine fails from over reving 90% of the time it will bust the rod High(close to the piston). This failure is from low oil.
Exactly right, except, I run 10W30, because of cold temperature, no matter which engine. (snow blower) 30 weight is good in the summer, for lawnmowers and rototillers. Both my snow blower and rototiller run Tecumseh engines, my lawnmower runs a Briggs & Stratton engine. With clean oil and good air filters, I'm certain, that all of the engines will outlast the equipment they're on.
Hi Dony, I have a Tecumseh HM100 159436P engine on my 5000 watt generator. Just curious about "Don't over-rev" the engine? I know must small engines are set to run around 3600 RPM, however my generator manual says the no load RPM should be set at 3750 RPM. So my question is how fast is too fast? Is 3750 RPM above what Tecumseh designed the engine to be run at?
The best way to set up a generator, is to get it as close to 3,600 RPM under load as possible. To get 120 V @ 60 Hz, the crankshaft MUST turn EXACTLY 3,600 RPM. It's just that engines lose speed under load. (~2,500-3,500 watts should do it for this generator) 3750 RPM unloaded isn't too fast, it's just slightly above the RPM engines are measured at, to get their rated horsepower at sea level. Just remember to check the oil each time you add fuel.
Dony, I have an HMSK-80 that is driving me absolutely crazy and I’m at my wits end. I’ve gone through everything. It’s very hard starting and want to die down a bit under heavy loads. Doesn’t idle low very well and only wants to start under either no choke or one click on choke. It has a new carb, new fuel lines, new spark plug gapped at .30, new primer, new starter. Most recently, it now wants to trip my starter and doesn’t want to work at all. Any ideas??
@donyboy73, were there a bad run of engines that Tecumseh put out? I have a 2006 Ariens 824 snowblower and I do take care of it and dont abuse it, however I'm afraid this will happen to me. I also use Mobil-1 synthetic oil as well. How many of these bad connecting rod issues have you seen?
Tecumseh is known to throw rods... I've heard the carbs suck, but the emission ones in particular. I like Briggs engines, I've seen an old one on a 1970s snowthrower and it seems to run a little off, never rebuilt the carb on it and it had the original plug up until last year (used very little). The old tecumseh engines are good, the Chinese engines, well, the China companies can't make cat food right. Do you think they can make a good engine?
I have a Craftsman trac drive snowblower one track stopped turning under power would that be a shear bolt? And recently the engine started puking out of the breather behind the carburetor would this be because the engine is houred out and needs to be rebuilt or replaced?
Mine threw its rod after 19 years. It wasn't low on oil, in fact the oil was new. What happened is I was going through a heavy snow bank the plough left at the end of my driveway. It went through the snow bank a couple of times then began to slow down suddenly the third time. I slowed down the RPMs and then there was a bang and the engine stopped. I checked the oil and it was still full. Rod was snapped, but crankcase was still okay. I never went further into it to investigate. This was an old machine with plenty of 3' heavy snow banks under its belt, but the last time it was used the snow was very heavy and wet. Thinking possibly water got into the oil causing the crank bushing to fail - and it was the crank bushing that failed, just like in this vid. In the end it was just old age. My MTD Yard Man was a great machine, fully optioned, electric turret, hand warmers etc. but it didn't owe me anything, rust holes and all. Tecumseh made good engines but nothing lasts forever.
destroyed a connecting rod in my TEC H70 after pulling approx. 5300 rpms on my kart, fortunately it didn't go through the crankcase...going with an TEC HM100 with a billet rod this time around..
Actually like i said in one of my other comments they only have a life expectancy of 1000 hours which is sort of reasonable considering the the engine runs maybe for 5 hours each year but still those engine are alway all over my tech shop and none of them run right!
I have a Toro model no. 38642 (Tecumseh engine HMSK100-159494Y 10HP, 4-cycle CARB 2, EPA 2 with an Electric/Recoil starter) with a hole in the block. Could this engine be replaced by a Briggs & Stratton engine and fit on my Toro?
I was putting my Carb back on my 10Hp Tecumseh Blower , a nut fell inside the fly wheel Area , all I did was remove the cowling , and turned the clutch mechanism counter clock wise to retrieve the nut , put the cowling back on , now the pull cord will only come out part way and jams solid , I know there are two different lengths of bolts , they are in the correct place , I took it off a couple times before for cleaning , never had this problem before , any ideas Fitzie , The RE-coil is fine
+JIM Fitzpatrick remove recoil from the engine and see if it still turns when off the flywheel. If not the tabs that grab the flywheel might be jammed. Also check to see if the engine still turns over.
i have a 10hp tec. that i just blew up can i still get a connecting rod? and can the aluminum be cleaned off the crank and how? thanks luv your vids john
Hi! Is there a way to tell the revs on these engines, other than by ear? I got an old blower last year that needed a new carb, fired right up after I put it on. Let it warm up to adjust the carb, it was not responding right to throttle and would not idle but seemed to run ok so i let it warm up... For less than two minutes before it blew up right in front of me. Exact same damage as the one in this video, plus the piston skirt took a hit too. Anyways, I put a new (used) engine on it today that seems to run fine but after last year's mishap I'm still a bit nervous, and I'd like to be sure.
have you ever tried jb weld to fix one cracked block, they say it really works. you should just for fun try and upload your results. that's what i would do. !!!
When you salvage parts like this, how do you keep track of what parts are? Do you keep all of the parts from a single engine in a box together and label the box? Thanks Tony
I have a question, do you get a lot of tech. engines with blown rods? also do you have a preferred engine, Briggs, kohler, tech, Honda? well i like briggs and never hardly liked tech. its not that i don't know how to work on them, but some of them can be a pain, and every tech. i manage to get its, junk carb or thrown rod, everyone of the ones i got were bad, idk if its luck of draw or what. but good videos and repairs!!
i have a techusume 10 hp engine for lawnmower, i was told they do not make that motor any more and i cant get a piston replacement,can i use a biggs piston n rod for it if so can u give me parts number so i can buy the piston and rod and rings for my engine thanks.
i can keep my briggs redlined for hours and it was made for a tiller and i rigged it up on my gokart and it works great. tecumseh used cheaper metals in their products which evidentually lead to the company`s demise.in simpler terms they cheap out to the extreme and people started to notice their engines throwing rods.
I dismantled a Tecumseh engine because of not starting due to problem with low pressure , which cause by piston . Now I am looking for a manual or a Vedic dish which can show me how to put my Tucumseh engine back . Could you tell me where I can it . If you have an instruction dish , can you sell it to me .
The damage to this engine appears to have been caused by lack of oil and an event where the engine was either over revved causing it to throw the rod or was suddenly jammed while at full power.
i have a JD 112 it turns over very fast with no compression, and the piston just jumps a inch or so ever rotation, any idea whats wrong? and what its gonna cost to fit it my self?
@motorhead45102 i prefer a Briggs over Tecumseh but have loved the Kohler engine i just got with my new mower, on my minibikes i prefer B&S easier starting but it really dosent matter the brand just that u keep it maintaned with regular oil changes and so on
good day Don I have the same engine and am trying to take off the pulleys ,but no way.Ive tried heating it used a gear puller ,it just wont budge,. do you have any other ideas that might work .thanks in advance
they don't make em like they used to. my new Kohler engine is built to last X hours then self destruct. Manual says I don't even need to ever change the oil.
if i were to repair a tecumseh engine muffler that was built in 1979 and hasent been changed in that ammount of time what would be the odds that the bolts break in the engine
