Thank you so much man, you have no idea how helpful this is. It would be great if you could give a rating at the and of the video (1-5 or so) for quality.
Not really, it's a teardown video where they completely skipped the part where it is practically impossible to take it apart without breaking the button and display cover.
These people are lying. They act like you can just slide it out after removing the bottom cover, but you can't. You can clearly see they had to remove the side button and the display cover. Also they broke off the plastic top cover. Shame to spread misinformation like this.
I just took one apart, and you do indeed need to remove the display cover. It pops straight out, but is a tight fit. It's hard to get out without marking it up. The power button does not need to be removed. You can push it in while sliding the cover down, and the cover will slide over the power button.
The jumpcut between 2:57 and 2:58 is brilliant! It took me almost an hour to go from popping the back cover to sliding the isides out. No, the power button does not slide with insides, it have to be removed first.
Bought it yesterday, tried out today and will bring for a repair/refund tomorrow. From a full charge (100% on screen and no energy consumption over the wire) it gave 5400mAh until it reached 40% and then it died like it would be at 0% - no reaction to a button, no charge given. As soon as i hook it up to a charger it boots (showing 0%) and in 3seconds show 40already. Given a few seconds charge from that shown 40 and tried to use it to charge phone or anything again - bam it goes flat again at 40% When charging the powerbank itself with quick charger (60w), it grows from 40 to 80 smoothly and then at around 82 it just immediately jumps to 100 and stops charging. Hooking up 5v charger instead of a quick one still allows to push in a few percent. Saw those negative youtube videos before buying it but thought (its just one of thousands and it will not happen to me.. boy i was wrong). Do not recommend it at all.
Happened to me too. I emailed them and they sent me a brand new one so I still had the broken one. I bypassed the battery protection board and it seems to be working fine now. 2 for the price of one!
This powerbank is garbage! I already got the secound one that stopped working after a few months. At some point it just makes clicking noises and neither charges or discharges. Don't buy this crap. Cheers!
If anyone else is wondering how to disassemble it without ruining the casing - use the hot glue sticks glued to the covers to pull them out, stick those first to the screen protector, then to the button and lastly to the bottom cover. It will leave the casing in the ideal condition and yet you'll have a fully disassembled unit with a few tries though. Have a nice one!
thank you so much for this channel and this content i have been looking for someone that can show us what we are buying and the quality of the electronics that we buy. your videos were very useful to me so please continue with this fantastic work.
I am a student I buy basus adamim black 20000 22.5w power bank. But I cannot use it only 3 month it just broke now it did not work very bad basus 🥺 ,, my mi powerbank after 4 years still working fine just lost full capacity
@@ChargerLAB i live in Bangladesh and there is no chance of repair officially and refund,, recently i buy ip5328p powerbank circut and fix the powerbank. ❤️
@@ssjihad7014 this shouldnt work with this battery actually, because it has a voltage up to 16.8v (thats at least what the video says, and also my opend one has also 16v) and the ip5328p can only handle one cell and has a max voltage of 4.5v on the battery input according to the datasheet
the failure rate of this thing is a bit unlucky, we bought all in all 6 of these for familiy and friends and one of them had right after using it one time a short in one of the usb A circuits another one got a usb A with a not working contact, so only 2 ports out on that one and a 3rd one now failed completely, the last thing it did was to pretend to charge from 0-100% in 2 mins while drawing near to 0 power, so the battery itself is probably good but the circuit is not that good in my experience
same here, don't show anything when i try to charge it by the usb c port, but when i plug in a micro usb cable (with 45w samsung charger) it charges from zero to 100 like 2%/s
@@gabrielsouzaperes1084 hey, I found out what the problem is There is a chip that is responsible for the 20v switching from the battery and the usb c port, also it powers the other circuits as well I think, the chip is called "southchip sc8721", it shorted the input and the output of itself The battery was save and not completly drained do to the seperate bms board, which cut the power I found with ir camera that the input power shunt is getting hot and the coil right next to it on the other side on the board, the soutchip was also in line with these 2 and had less resistance, therefore I couldnt see it right away, but thats was the short reason for sure, because after I soldered it out with hotair the short was gone the board accepted power from the lab power supply and was showing a charge state that was reasonable, but as soon as I use the usb a, it blinks two times and turns off I think replacing the chip will fix everything, but I didnt get a new one so far, for me in germany it looks like the only source for these is alibaba and I have to take 10 of them, which is fine tho, because they are only 1usd each in case you have no option to solder this, you might be able to buy a usb c to battery charging board, search for "120w Two-Way Pd Fast Charging Module 4 Strings Charging Treasure Module Circuit Board High Power Pd Fast Charging Boost/Buck" on aliexpress, these should run with 4 cells in series and then you replace this, but maybe check if the cutoff voltage from the original bms is set proberly hope that helps you
@@gabrielsouzaperes1084 Have the same issue. Tore it appart (and destroyed it, no way to put it back together) and found the issue : One of the 4 cell is just dead. 3 are fine, but one isn't taking charge and is reading 0.5V.
@@smunaut actually thats not the same issue, the bms of mine did prevent it from discarging further since the sc8721 was shorting the bms out so my cells are all fine, still reading 15.83 V (just checked) - so they are good for you Id bet it was water damage on the bms pcb or another random failure on the bms board - infact I think your pd controller board should be fine
Yeah, it's missing a good explanation for a _full_ teardown and not skipping critical steps like that ... I destroyed mine trying to open it because those steps were not explained. No clue how you're supposed to remove the button and LCD without damaging them. Me the button is in pieces ...
Love your teardown videos! Can you do the teardown of Nitecore NB20000 anytime soon? It is very lightweight and used by a lot of hikers, runners. Thanks!
amazing video. the amount of details and work its awesome and respectable. this video deserves way more views and likes. thank you so much for the effort you did put in this
@Cikgu Aman hey, I found out what the problem was in my case: There is a chip that is responsible for the 20v switching from the battery and the usb c port, also it powers the other circuits as well I think, the chip is called "southchip sc8721", it shorted the input and the output of itself The battery was save and not completly drained do to the seperate bms board, which cut the power I found with ir camera that the input power shunt is getting hot and the coil right next to it on the other side on the board, the soutchip was also in line with these 2 and had less resistance, therefore I couldnt see it right away, but thats was the short reason for sure, because after I soldered it out with hotair the short was gone the board accepted power from the lab power supply and was showing a charge state that was reasonable, but as soon as I use the usb a, it blinks two times and turns off I think replacing the chip will fix everything, but I didnt get a new one so far, for me in germany it looks like the only source for these is alibaba and I have to take 10 of them, which is fine tho, because they are only 1usd each in case you have no option to solder this, you might be able to buy a usb c to battery charging board, search for "120w Two-Way Pd Fast Charging Module 4 Strings Charging Treasure Module Circuit Board High Power Pd Fast Charging Boost/Buck" on aliexpress, these should run with 4 cells in series and then you replace this, but maybe check if the cutoff voltage from the original bms is set proberly
@@monkeystation My ravpower only died in 5 months battery was fried or it short circuited idk what the problem was but this shouldn't fail seems like you didnt read the manual
Is it dangerous to bypass the battery protection board? Mine was delivered broken. I diagnosed the issue to be somewhere in the battery protection board. I bypassed it and it seems to be working fine. Just concerned if bypassing this board poses a fire hazard?
Hey are you good at fault finding such stuff? My 65w baseus just died, usb 3.0 completely dead, usb 2.0 showing its charging up the power bank rly fast like 2 percent per second, then it gets to 99 and stays there, is it worthy to try to solve this issue or just buy another? not baseus ofc xD
@@monkeystation mira no se si en español te valga la respuesta, pero con una navaja acabo de desmontar mi powerbank entera, hice palanca con la punta y también me sirvio para los tornillos, el botón empece a meter la navaja e hice palanca sacando poco a poco el boton, y la parte de la pantalla le di a una pestaña por dentro y después cuando conseguí hacer un hueco como para meter la navaja empecé a dar vueltas hasta que encontré la otra pestaña y tiré
The one I bought in September 22 isn't working May 23. Ive probably used it maybe 20 times in that period. its a real shame. Why cant any chinese stuff be good? the only good stuff they make they have to steal from actual talent.
