We're going to replace a broken hinge tab on my SL-Q2 turntable with an aluminum one. This repair works on any Technics turntable with the dreaded plastic hinge tabs. SL-Q series, SL-D series.
My dad got this TT in 1980, and I always loved it, but it ended up sitting in storage for a long time, unfortunately. He passed away in January and I wanted to fix up this turntable and all of his old records. It's been running great after a drop of oil on the motor, some cleaning, and a new headshell and cartridge, but the dust cover hinges broke and I had no clue how to fix that so this is very helpful
I installed these tabs myself a few days ago on my Technics SL-D202. Even though only one tab was broken, I replaced them both for a professional-looking job. The downside to using these China aluminum tabs is that there are drilled in a metric size; the hardware looks cheap; and there is no "backing plate" to go on the other side of the plastic cover. So I cut a small matching piece of ¾" aluminum (flat), and drilled them out to 3/16". I then used small #10-32 Allen head machine screws with acorn (cap) nuts on the inside. No ugly hardware showing, and backing plate helps to spread the load stress over a wider area. Using only screws, that is exactly where the next break will be! One suggestion: before marking the holes to drill the two through-holes, first square up the dust cover to EXACTLY where it needs to be, and tape it down on sides and front with 2' masking tape. This way, the cover won't shift as you bring the hinge up for marking....you have to work against the spring pressure on the hinge to get it up flat to the cover. The last thing you need is a loose cover while attempting to do this! Wish I could post a photo or two, but the Allen head screws and cap nuts look awesome....worthy of the Name "Technics".
Just out of curiosity, what cartridge and stylus would you suggest for this model? Mine still seems to have original technics cartridge (Got it on Ottawa Kijiji for $200 a few weeks ago). Thanks!
My Technics SL-231 has a black plinth so I have sprayed the aluminum tabs mat black. I also used black M4 screws and nuts. Slightly larger than those supplied. I put the nuts on the back so they aren't visible.
I've seen these for sale on eBay. There is a guy here in the UK makes a cruder alternative the width of the tab bent to the inside with 2 vertical positioned bolts. But I think there was a guy in the USA made these for a good while. I think he made the mistake of including an image with all the dimension measurements, material thickness, hole distances etc and hey presto, the Chinese have just taken this drawing and copied his design! I was working on a D2 which I was contemplating putting these on but my Dremmel was elsewhere at the time so just elected to sell it as a loose lid. Good to see the process but quite a lot of work. For a top class job you could finish off hand sanding the surgery then go down the grades of wet and dry to about 2.5k, then polish with cutting compounds to a polished finish - but be prepared for a good few hours invested to get to that stage! Good to see the process in action and from the comments that you also did the opposite side.
I think a backing plate with the kit would finish the look and put less stress on the lid. Maybe someone will come up with that in their kit. Good video
I cast an imprint in clay of a good tab. Built up the broken tab with baking soda a crazy glue and filed and sanded it into shape. Worked perfectly. You could also wet sand and polish the flattened ares with 800 through 3000 and buff. Grest demo on the retrofit hinge tabs. Tedious work.
I don't have the power tool you have but I do have a small coping saw that I will use. I think it will be less mess and for sure less noise. Thanks for the video.
I received my new aluminium tabs in the mail yesterday. I'm almost tempted to flip my dustcover around and drill the holes in what should be the front of the dustcover. The dustcover on my SL-D3 has seen better days, there's some unsightly cracks on the front but none on the back. Sure the cracked plastic tabs would then be seen on the front but I could always grind them off sometime in the future and it would save me some time and work grinding them off right now.
Lots of very helpful advice, especially in the cutting procedure. I think that the hinge should be fitted so that the flange, not the base plate is flush with lid, a better match with the original. Also the holes be could drilled before cutting the original hinges away - easy to line up?
Just remember that you are transferring that stress from the old plastic hinges to the plastic dust cover. If you are not gentle through the coming years you could end up with cracks in the dust cover. Speaking from experience.
You could have done both sides at once, as the second one is going to break soon as well :) I did it just yesterday, but with 3D printed double sided hinges, which cover the traces of the "surgery" from the inside of the lid.
Great job! I am about to do this on my dust cover as the kit just came. I have to do both hinges and your situation where you used the good hinge to help locate the position for the replacement gave me an idea. Maybe it's best to do one side completely first to do the other one to aid in placement. What do you think?
Hi, I have a question: in my case the hinge attachement on the side of the record player is also broken. I found replacement parts on Etsy, but first I have to dismantle the old one and how hard I try, I can't manage to remove the pin from the hinge. Anyone has succeeded in repairing this?
Hi Turntable Guy. great video. Any idea how you release the spring loaded bracket that the tab fits into please? tab and bracket on mine have broken. TIA
Here is some pictures of my homemade hinges for my Technics SL-D2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6B0YR0Jx1Rk.html And here is the dimentions of my homemade hinges to dustcover for Technics SL-D2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uYblYEBfGvE.html
