@@mbox314 I have. I don't have the time to learn C. C is a very dangerous language. I still maintain using a microcontroller of any sort is stupid if a single passive component will serve the purpose. :)
@Bene Hick Bene, I'm shure it is easy. After a while. Once you get through the learning curve. Like learning to touch type. Millions are using them says a lot. However, I'm wading through MicroPython on a PICO and plan on moving up to an ESP32. Thanx, :)
With no shifter or transmission tunnel, this thing is crying out for a bench in the front. Something like the 2.5 seat bench that was fitted stock in the back of the Mk2 would, I think, look amazing up front in place of the individual seats. Alternatively: Fuck it, a Chesterfield sofa in the back and two flat wing Chesterfield armchairs in the front!
The resettable fuse was used by GM to close the windows. No limit switch. Once a window was closed, the fuse would blow, stopping the current,then the fuse would reset.
Love the project! I wonder if a rotary switch to toggle between temperatures to read would be useful. You could have all of your temperatures on a screen but also have whatever you feel is most important right at the gauge. Then to make it more useful, with the the turn of a small knob you could switch between what temperature is displayed. This way you have two readouts, one on the screen for everything and one right on the dash. This way you don't have to take your eyes as far off the road, all the way down to a screen, while driving. Just a quick peek at the gauge for a "it's okay" or "oh, man, I need to pull over." Alternatively, have the gauge aggregate the temperature feeds and act as an idiot light. Half way up for "normal range", 3/4 up for "you should probably look at the screen and see what's high", and all the way up for "you need to pull over."
Set some thresholds on temps, then if any breach that threshold, the idiot light comes on to draw attention and note that selected temp may not be the displayed temp, then the gauge starts reading that temp.
Like Bene Hick said show the critical temperature. Some helicopters I work on have this. It's called an FLI ( first limit indicator. ) and will show the value closest to the limit. You could have have LEDs to indicate which value is being displayed.
@@SuperfastMatt you could just use the original gauge and have a button to switch between the several sensors, and several small labeled LEDs to tell you which one you're seeing
When a video drops, I tell my 12yo son "there's a new superfastmatt vid" and then we watch together. Keep up the projects and the style...they are great entertainment and inspiring.
Audibly laughed at the seam gag. Your jokes are always just enough, and so well-timed. I hope you enjoy making these videos as much as we all do watching them, Matt.
I watch this in both my accounts and like it twice, everytime. You are the youtuber I can relate the most in terms of projects. I love the way most things go wrong and you have to remake, redo, try again, every, freaking, time, just like me hahahahaha.
On the 2014 Model S the parking brake has its own control box. The electric calliper has 4 pins: The outer are for the DC motor and the inner are labeled Sense and Limit.
Temp: you could show the highest relative temp, if one system is at 15% of max and another at 75% of max, only the 75% temp will really matter. And when that dial is showing something is off (too high) it's time to check out diagnostics for a more detailed investigation.
In the past I have used GM dash stepper motors for dials. Believe they are Switech x27 or x25. There is even an Arduino library to control them without a stepper controller. Has worked great for the couple of cards I have tested with.
I've used these myself in my classic mini. The library is by Guy Carpenter Switec x25. There is also an open source pcb available with flyback diode protection to protect the steppers.
Dude, I literally just got a red carpet in the mail today for my Del Sol. And I've been watching your videos as they come regardless; I swear it's not the algorithm.
It's nice to see this project progressing. I'm glad to see I am not the only one to use one project as a work surface for another. All Hail the Algorithm!
For my father, for a Standard Vanguard (car) rebuild, I used a plastic rod I hid LEDs in, and covered it with the film you can put on your windows -- the silver colored one. (Sorry... Tired non native English speaker : ). The result looked like a chrome detail when off, but with highly visible LEDs for blinkers, handbrake and other warnings when driving. You could use the same film and even a display to have a lot of details but not looking modern when parked. Kind of like a "smart mirror". Secondly: analog meters are often just measuring for instance 0-12V. You could PWM a signal and filter it (resistor + capacitor) to be able to feed the old meter directly. No motor conversion needed. Thank you for the videos!
For the temp gauge, I have an idea - If all temps are normal, the singular factory temp gauge reads 50%. If anything is cold it reads lower, if anything is hot it reads higher. Then you can pull out your OBD2 app to look at what's going on if something is awry. You can do this if all the important temperatures (batt, motor, etc) are skewed to the same 0-100 (or 0-127, whatever) scale for their normal ranges. Run the needle from all of them in parallel. If any one temperature goes over normal, have the gauge rise accordingly. Kinda like modern cars, just a dummy gauge that tells you to stop and check on things. Old race cars would clock their gauges so the normal reading was always at 12 o clock, so you could glance at a dash full of gauges and immediately know if one was off. Same idea, just condensed into one single gauge.
For what it’s worth- you’re my unofficial hero. Love the mix of new tech and old school - and your ability to keep rolling forward. Inspiring as well as entertaining. Carry on!
The thing sticking out of the top of the body controller shown at 1:58 is to shed water and prevent it from going inside the case. This was located just under the dash in what was supposed to be a "dry" area. A fellow intern was tasked with solving the issue. When people would get their front windshield tinted, water would from the tinting process would all collect right on the controller, intrude, and blow a ~$1000 part. Watching him iterate and develop this part was really cool.
Only 1 side mirror is needed in most states, my 1986.5 Nissan pickup came with only the driver side mirror from the factory. Hotrodders are always flippant about motor laws 😁
@@charlesgunzelman3323 My 1968 Falcon came from the factory with only a drivers side mirror, the passenger side was an option as were side marker lights. Gloriously simpler rules for a simper time.
The mirrors I believe are referred to as “peep mirrors” in the hot rod community. That’s what I put on my “not an El Camino” Ranchero. Great idea integrating them into your smokers window hardware
Temp gauge - make it display the temp which is the highest, so you kinda-ish know when something is overheating. And/or make it with different backlighting to know what it is showing at the moment
I thought of this as well. I've seen industrial equipment do this for large systems. However this only works if the equipment has the same temperature ranges. Motors Drives Batteries all can have different operating temperatures. You can have a warning light that tells you the that any piece is overheating and maybe a button that allows you to cycle between the different temps though
If the gauges are run by an Arduino, it'd be a simple enough matter to have the gauge cycle through each temperature reading every 5 seconds say, The Mk2 had chunky big pull switches that could easily be refunctioned with a little inset button for this purpose.
So weird that the emergency brakes arent automatic. Im an industrial mechanic, all braking systems on robotics, conveyors, forklifts, or other electric equipment is like a commercial tractor trailer: the brakes are locked when unpowered and have to be energized to disengage. That way, if you're driving and the power cuts out, the brakes automatically turn on.
It not a real problem. Every 80,000lb tractor trailer on the highway has brakes like this. Having the brakes lock is the best case scenario for any driver when the power flips off and they lose function of the steering and braking system.
@@SpecialEDy Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't multiple things have to fail at the same time on a small car for both the emergency brakes and the hydraulic brakes to stop working, so it's already a redundant system? Not the case on tractor trailers unless I'm mistaken.
Most family cars are designed so that you can still steer and stop with total loss of power. A Tesla has two rear parking brakes. If you loose power power to only one of them, and it engages at 80mph, then you are definitely losing control of the vehicle. Much safer to let the driver bring the vehicle to a stop, with all four wheels still providing stability.
For the arduino stuff you're doing, something I've used in the past that has worked pretty well is the productivity open P1AM. It's an "industrial" arduino system that's more rugged and is expandable with a bunch of different modules for whatever you might need.
The crash data and the hidden/not hidden seams were bloody brilliant. I love watching your videos. Any day I can be entertained while learning some "non-engineering, non-legal" things, is a good day. Thanks Matt!
With temperature have the actual gauge read nominal until one of the sensors hits a predefined limit then whack up the gauge reading so you know something is wrong and look at the phone screen? Sort of a master status reading. Nice to see this moving along 😀
As someone who's spent the last several years of my career sifting through CANbus logs to diagnose control systems, this video got a genuine belly laugh out of me. I must show my coworkers.
What's interesting about Tesla handbrake is that it pulls it to certain limit and then monitors constantly if the car is rolling. If it detects a movement, it pulls the handbrake even more to stop the car rolling. Clever.
*I love you videos no end.* The OED discusses no end in the context of end, which is noted as of Old English/Saxon origins to mean 1a. "the extremity or outermost part (in any direction) of a portion of space, or of anything extended in space; utmost limit," and 1b. "a limit of magnitude or multitude." No end is defined as a colloquialism that means "a vast quantity or number (of)," and in modern slang as "‘immensely’, ‘to any extent’; and (with of) qualifying a predicate."
LED LIGHTS IN THE REAR WINDOW! THAT'S GENIUS! I drive a 1988 G20 van and I hate only having two brake lights, adding some inside the rear windows is a genius solution that doesn't require drilling any holes on the outside of the vehicle to let in water! I don't need any more leaks!
For the temperature dial, Add three LEDs below, (one for battery, one for motor, etc. ) Light the LED for the appropriate thingy while displaying the temperature on the dial (with servo motor as you planned), mount a button to change which temperature to display. Configure it to automatically switch to the device with highest temperature. If you want to go full steampunk, use old LEDs or bulbs
Some instrument ideas... you can fool the old guages. Speedometer- run a small motor to replace the flex shift Fuel - 2 wire PWM, 3 wire more complicated PWM Temp -analog heater/temp sensor like 3d printer hotend, electric PWM for the temp Guage I would have the arduino look for the temperature that is most important then display that. One temp is too high, show that one. Something is abnormally low? You could replace the backlight with an rgb led, you can get at least 3 clearly different colors, like 6 or 7. Look into potting the arduino, once the program is finalized, no moisture or vibration.
@4:23 Change back ground from rpm to POWER/regen. Make temp gauge to be selected to show what you are interested to see. Also automatic temp selection would be nice, showing automatically abnormal/high temps. Some indicating leds to show what temp is shown at gauge.
I think this is my favorite channel. I am eager to see the Jag in it's finished form. I think you should offer a t-shirt and I think it should say "all hail the algorithm". I'd buy it!
insanely funny and interesting videos, my man. I have nothing to do practically with engineering or even craftsmanship in any kind, but through your videos with you nerding out all about it in this funny way, really makes me geek out about stuff like that. Love from Germany
I've built an Arduino controlled multi gauge for my classic mini. A single push switch toggles through each gauge and if a min or max parameter is exceeded it automatically displays that gauge with a warning. The same push switch can be pressed to dismiss the warning. I've used an OLED inside an original gauge housing to keep it looking stock.
I knew I made the right choice in patronizing you when you referenced the movie UHF. As for a long-term solution to temperature monitoring, I would probably made a small panel to mount under the dash. On the panel is a bunch of RGB LEDs and buttons in pairs. Each pair correspondss to one temperature you are interested in. If the Temperature is good, the LED is green. If it's marginal, the LED is yellow, and if it's bad, red. Then, when you want to see the temperature on an actual gauge, you push the right button and the gauge reflects that LED's temperature. Should be easy for the arduino that you're using to drive your gauge cluster, provided it has available GPIO pins for the LEDs and buttons.
Your opening describes my current project EXACTLY. I haven't done squat to it since I got it driving, and now I don't have space to remove the interior to do those last few things I ran out of time for so that I can finally install the carpet and headliner. 😑
The Jagsla (Tesuar?) returns! Tesla swapping an old car is one thing I would love to do if I had the mechanical skills to bridge the gap between interesting and ill advised. This is the project that led me to start following your channel. The other projects are sort of interesting (particularly the Honda, but this one is truely exciting.
You should make it RHD for the authentic Jaguar experience. In the same vein you also need to ensure it breaks down twice weekly. Also take those wheels off please, for the love of all things holy. Greetings from England, love your videos mate.
You could add a nice dash cam rearview mirror, gives you forward and rear cameras that you can view in the rearview mirror. You could go fancy and add the 360 view cameras too!
Awesome Matt! The only thing I like better than your projects is the fun way you present them in your videos. The Jag is really going to look great IMO.
I relate so much with you, your videos cheer me up a lot. I have 3 projects running in parallel myself. 2 electric bikes but one of them is a DIY mid drive 8kw and m365 electric scooter complete upgrade. I start doing one of them, then jump the other then to the other, in the end of the little free time I had I barely did any progress in any of them. But sometimes I do a lot of progress in one of them then I realize I don't have all the parts I need and I get stuck on the same place for a week or two. Keep Going. You are lucky for living in California! Cheers from Poland
I had actually bought a bunch of gauges from Speedhut before I knew my project was going to be electric, so this is what I did: The Orion BMS outputs State of Charge as a 0-5VDC signal, so I added jumper wires to drive the stepper motor in the Speedhut gauge I had with a stepper motor driver, measured steps, zero it on startup and step it up from 0 to 5VDC. They also recommended that they could have made a custom gas gauge face for the Wideband 02, which already reads 0-5V. I wasn't sure if it would work though, because Wideband o2, (for some sensors) may be 0-5vdc, but it also wants to be in the center, so I wasn't sure how accurate it would be at full or empty... although given how accurate most gas cars are at full and empty I guess it's not that big a deal. For the tach, I use an Arduino nano with a can shield to convert the Tach CAN message to decimal rpm, calculate the delay and pulse a pin on and off to emulate the rpm sensor, so I didn't have to tear that one apart to modify it.
Just a few hours since you posted this, already 420 plus comments, obviously many people like you more than I do. And I don't know why. Lol. I don't know why I tune in, all I know is where to get a good laugh. Thanks Matt!!! This is the best channel! I just don't know why. The Top Hat Crash Helmet is the best comment EVER. Thanks warci.
I've used about 50 of the RUGGED ARDUINO boards from RUGGED CIRCUITS, and not one unit has failed ! They are definitely in a tough environment. FARM TRACTORS
Regarding the stepper, there is an specific time of stepper use in car gauges, and it is slim too. On the temperature, maybe use a backlit addressable/programmable color LED like WS2812, depending on the color of the backlit, the position of the needle. and it show the most relevant temp, the one you should care about if something not OK. If you add a button, you can select which temp to show. The issue might be that you need to remember what color is what, yeah. The other option, is change the metal the has the numbers, and add holes with a LED on each one, and the name of each temp on the plate. Maybe color coded too.
You might check into a Ultragauge for having a small, simple monitor that plugs into the OBDII port that doesn't require an app. You can get one that connects to an app, but they also have one with a screen that can pull the same canbus information and display it. I have one in my land rover discovery2 to monitor engine temps (and a few other things) and it works really well.
Glad I subscribed! Your videos are above par! I like the content and the editing is really quite well! I work with engineers all day every day… I’m your “proof of concept/feasibility guy” so projects like yours really interest me amd you’ve got great content!
